Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Hobart, Tasmania
    Posts
    24

    Default Glue Stitch Sabot - help reading plans please

    Hi there,

    i am currently building a cedar strip canoe so evidently have heaps of time spare, as such I have promised my daughter I will help her build a small rowing dinghy.
    Having found some plans which look ok, however, on closer examination, I am having problems working out some dimensions, or rather, problems with measurements on the drawings. Specifically with the way
    the lengths of bow and stern edges project against the elevations for the side and bottom ply planks.
    Is it simply that I follow the set out dimensions in full scale, cut and all will be good. or is this where the dark art of lofting comes into play and i need to do some sort
    of conversions to get true lengths of edges for side and base panels. on the enclosed drawing the edge lengths of the base and side panels simply don't measure as the
    same length as the edges on the bow/stern panels?

    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated/
    Roy.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Anstead. Qld
    Posts
    11

    Default

    G'day,
    Could it have something to do with the curve of the timber. When stitching together the pieces may join up???
    Post a pic when finished.
    John.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Hobart, Tasmania
    Posts
    24

    Default

    Perhaps, I will be doing a full mock up in 3mm mdf to start with.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Eustis, FL, USA
    Posts
    2,270

    Default

    Both transoms (bow and stern) are shown "projected", which is one way to present them if you want accurate measurements. I do it a little differently on my plans, by simply showing the transom dimensions as a station mold, with the term "projected" in brackets. The reason it's shown this way, is because it's hand drawn and this is the mechanical way of drafting an angled surface. Just take the provided dimensions as they appear (heights and half breadths) and make the transom or transom mold to these dimensions. If you used a ruler and scaled directly off the drawing, you'd have different measurements, unless you "project" the transoms (as shown on the drawing) first. It's just a technical drawing thing, just use the provided dimensions.

    As a reminder, these dimensions are not the planking dimensions, but the exterior surface of the hull dimensions, from which you'll make station molds. In the process of making station molds, you'll need to subtract the thickness of the planking, from the actual mold dimensions.
    5.jpg
    This is a round bilge I recently built, during the station mold erection stage. The molds are shaped to the inside of the planking, so that when you apply the actually planking, the exterior dimensions are what the design calls for.

    If you drop me an email, I can send you a PDF that explains all this more completely, than I have here and it shows a hard chine hull (like yours) being done like this.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Hobart, Tasmania
    Posts
    24

    Default

    @PAR Thanks for the reply, I'm older school so I understood the reason for the projection and that the transoms were true shape as per the dimensions, what confused me was the mis match on the drawing.
    As I am glue stitching, therfore not needing station moulds, ill just have faith in the drawings, set out and cut.

    Cheers

    Roy.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Eustis, FL, USA
    Posts
    2,270

    Default

    Roy (again) those are not panel dimensions, but instead are "heights" and "half breadths". If you make your panels to those dimensions nothing will fit (not even close in some areas). To get actual panel dimensions you have to "develop" the drawings, which isn't an easy thing for the novice. In the old days, these developments were done by hand "triangulating" areas, until the panel was mapped out. Now we use software to address this quite tedious task. There are lots of plans available for taped seam 8' prams, where the developed panels are already figured out for you.

    I'd recommend the "D5" from bateau.com. It's a 7' 10" sailing pram (just like yours), designed for taped seam (stitch and glue) construction. It's plans are cheap and available as a digital download too.



  8. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Hobart, Tasmania
    Posts
    24

    Default

    Thanks PAR, I re read what you said then had another think about the drawing, totally understand now! I'll look at the drawings you suggest. Really appreciate the assistance and wisdom.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Aberfoyle Park SA
    Age
    63
    Posts
    1,787

    Default

    Those Sabot drawings look very old.
    Might be the original MacGregor drawings.
    All Australian boats for the last 50 years or more have buoyancy boxes front & rear.
    Sabots are a still a popular junior racing class.
    The skeg is long gone, and kick-up or dagger rudders are the norm.
    If you really wanted a Sabot, the AU Sabot Association might be able to help with plans.
    Although it looks like the class has gone to f/glass hulls & c/f spars.
    Alan J

    Nothing says "Unprofessional Job" so loudly as wrinkles in the duct tape. - B.Spencer

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Hobart, Tasmania
    Posts
    24

    Default

    Thanks Alan,

    I found some other plans which have worked really well.

    Cheers
    Roy.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    48

    Default

    Alan, Given that you are in Hobart, you might want to talk to Lindisfarne SC about 8 footers. They sail Firebugs and Optimists, they built the Bugs and target them at kids who then move on to Sabres or Laser 4.7s.

    They threw a terrific event for Firebugs on 16/17 April.

    Lindisfarne - April 2016 - THE FIREBUG DINGHY - IN AUSTRALIA

Similar Threads

  1. GIS - Using Stitch and Glue
    By Rolf in forum Michael Storer Wooden Boat Plans
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 4th March 2010, 12:49 PM
  2. Stitch and Glue?
    By stonedpirate in forum BOAT BUILDING / REPAIRING
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 9th December 2009, 10:26 AM
  3. Stitch and glue no 2
    By Arron in forum BOAT BUILDING / REPAIRING
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 24th August 2009, 12:17 PM
  4. stitch and glue kayak
    By andrew29 in forum KAYAK & CANOE BUILDING
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 16th May 2007, 08:30 AM
  5. stitch and glue kayak
    By andrew29 in forum GLUE
    Replies: 19
    Last Post: 28th February 2006, 03:13 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •