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  1. #76
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    Richard,
    I'm not an avid rowing enthusiast in fact the idea of rowing to me means I've messed up badly to deserve the pain.

    Having said that if I were to build one I think it might be this design the transom is gorgeous and I believe the design comes from an area with similar sea conditions. I did not check earlier in the thread maybe it has already been discussed.

    The selection process is fun but.

    Cheers
    Mike

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  3. #77
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    When it comes to light weight wooden boats, there are only a few ways to go. Glued lapstrake will be the lightest of all methods, if the plank widths are balanced with longitudinal stiffness needs. In other words, you need more then just a couple of strake per side, so you can reduce planking stock thickness, without lose of strength.

    Unless you wanted to go composite, which frankly would be marginal at best in this size range without lots of really expensive fabrics. Conventional cold molding is an option, but not especially backyard friendly and costly. Taped seam multi chine will be fairly light, but not as light as cold molded or glued lap.


    Another option is the Lindsay Lord method. It's a form of strip planking that I've adapted and modified for several of my designs. The net result is a true cored, sandwich build, but no 'glass fabrics are used, rather polyester or modified acrylic fabrics, which have much higher elongation properties. Boats built like this are slightly flexible, which is fine in most power and row boat settings, though not so much with most sailboats.

    The Lindsay Lord or Lord/PAR build will be lighter then a glued lap by a small amount, but the flexibility will make comfort in pounding conditions a fair bit easier to endure and also increases durability. Unfortunately, the goo factor is pretty high with this type of build and bright finished hulls aren't possible.

    From an ease of building thing, glued lap is the hands down winner. Stretch out RYD 12.6 to the size you need up to about 18' (just station mold spacing now). A small deck at each end and a crushed velvet covered thwart and you're good to go.

  4. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by PAR View Post
    From an ease of building thing, glued lap is the hands down winner. Stretch out RYD 12.6 to the size you need up to about 18' (just station mold spacing now). A small deck at each end and a crushed velvet covered thwart and you're good to go.
    I think we've got our winner



    She's got the flat bottom for beach landings.
    Doesn't have the overhanging ends of some of the dories - considering we're talking small surf, not five footers, is that a problem?
    I like the round bilges.
    Lapstrake is my preferred building method.
    You can keep your crushed velvet

    Visually, I've yet to see a dory I like the look of and sadly, the same can be said of Oughtred's beach boats - I like the round hull and lots of planks. That's personal taste mind you, not a reflection on the boats. I also like the engineering advantages of lapstrake - as Paul says, stiff and light.

    How long should she be? Limit the length to the max I can get out of two sheets of gaboon scarfed together or go for a wee bit more length and do the extra join?

    You'll also note she's a lot like Clint's Drake but with a flat bottom

    Richard

  5. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daddles View Post
    I think we've got our winner



    She's got the flat bottom for beach landings.
    Doesn't have the overhanging ends of some of the dories - considering we're talking small surf, not five footers, is that a problem?
    I like the round bilges.
    Lapstrake is my preferred building method.
    You can keep your crushed velvet

    Visually, I've yet to see a dory I like the look of and sadly, the same can be said of Oughtred's beach boats - I like the round hull and lots of planks. That's personal taste mind you, not a reflection on the boats. I also like the engineering advantages of lapstrake - as Paul says, stiff and light.

    How long should she be? Limit the length to the max I can get out of two sheets of gaboon scarfed together or go for a wee bit more length and do the extra join?

    You'll also note she's a lot like Clint's Drake but with a flat bottom

    Richard
    Looks like the winner to me. So finish LBD and make the stretch 12.6. Just don't forget teh fore and aft decks and coamings to keep the gulf waves outside the boat!
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

  6. #80
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    You really shouldn't have all the plywood joints stacked over each other on the hull. So you might as well make it as long as you want, because you'll have to stagger some of the joints. If it's stretched much over 15', she should get some more sheer, both sweep and height other wise it'll look flat and be a wet ride.

  7. #81
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    Howdy, I have few qualms about modern glued joints stacked over each other. Use that in the Eureka to keep all the buttstraps in a neat line midships.

    (I know you probably will want to scarf Richard - I won't talk you out of it!)

    I think not lining up the butts is a holdover from trad building where the joins were much weaker than the surrounding timber.

    In high strength applications like spars or foils I will generally flip things over to make sure the joins don't all line up, but that just takes a few seconds.

    Additionally, for the stresses the rowboat hull is under it won't make any difference.

    MIK

  8. #82
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    I agree Michael, from a technical stand point it shouldn't matter one bit. Then there's the little bastard that stands on my right shoulder. He's the whiner of the lot, but usually has a good point or two, which causes me to lose sleep.

    I now have several repair jobs with substantial time on them, where the hood ends of lap strake boats have been replaced. Each has the joints slightly staggered (okay, it was listening a little), but they are basically right over each other, butt joints, painted and holding up fine. The little guy on my other shoulder is laughing his brains out.

  9. #83
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    Scarf two sheets of ply together, then scarf half a sheet on the end (see Mik, I am using that 's' word). This gives you the length to build the boat. Work from either end of the sheet for adjacent planks which gives alternating join locations. As the planks get longer from the garboard to the sheer, the joins migrate slightly and with the excess length in the planking stock anyway, it's not hard to have joints all over the place so that instead of the boat breaking in half because I'm a hamfisted clutz, it'll be falling apart all over the place

    Paul, will I have to loft the boat or have you done that part of the job? I don't mind lofting, it adds an interesting 'nother element to the job (we built the motor cruiser from tables of coordinates) but it'd be nice to know what I'm in for.

    Richard

  10. #84
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    I don't offer full size patterns on small craft, mostly because I don't have a 5' wide printer, but also because paper, like wood has a grain and stretches and shrinks with moisture content and especially when it goes through a printer. This makes them inaccurate. Of course Mylar patterns are very accurate, but damn costly. Other "films" can be used to improve accuracy, but these are also fairly costly.

    With my plans, you'll get a full set of lines, offsets, construction drawings and a date with my sister.

    I recommend lofting for several reasons, but an experienced builder could loft directly to the station molds, which I often do. Since this is a stretch job, it should be lofted to have the changes in heights and widths to pull templates from. The stations are still the same, but nothing else is.

    Given 6 mm plywood with an 8:1 scarf, you short yourself 4" compared to a butt joint. This means you can build to a length of about 15' 9" as opposed to 15' 5" if scarfs are used.

    The upper strakes will probably "nest" fairly well, so you can flip them end for end to stagger the joints, but the lower strakes will have some "shape" to them and these may require the plywood be canted at the joint. This is common of lapped hulls.

  11. #85
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    What about this one , a proven design , tough , long lasting , this one is 152 years old , and self righting .
    Regards Rob J.

  12. #86
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    What design are you referring Dopey?

  13. #87
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    Think it might be this one, Rob still has his L plates on.

    Nice pics probably a tad bigger than Richard is imagining me thinks.

  14. #88
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    Yes , I was refering to the lifeboat , but under oars.
    I have a photo of it during a rescue re-inactment at Portland , during the Admella regatta .
    I tried to post a photo , but was unsuccessful.
    It can be capsized , filled with water , and self right and empty within 30 seconds or so.
    I'll try again , in another post.
    Regards Rob J.

  15. #89
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    I hope this works.
    Sorry , looks like it didn't , again.
    Rob J.

  16. #90
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    Another try.
    Rob J.
    Well , again I was unsuccessful , I'm sorry.
    The reason I attempted to post it was to show that row boats were built for extreme conditions many years ago , and that we can possibly learn from their design.
    These lifeboats were built using diagonal planking , with an impregnated canvas between the layers.
    They proved to be extremely strong , and long lasting.
    It was just a thought.
    Regards Rob J.

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