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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Canberra ACT
    Posts
    15

    Post Need help with last row of T&G floorboards

    Hi all,
    Thanks to the heaps of info in this site I've managed to lay my spotted gum floorboards on ply over an old concrete slab. (T&G laid using Bostick Ultraset and secret nail every 4th/5th row). I picked up the floorboards (18mm T&G end matched) at auction in Canberra (rugged cover grade - but some pieces not even rubbish).
    I put the job on hold over Xmas as me and the new toy (circular saw) did not work well when it came to ripping the final floorboard row to fit against the wall.

    After searching the internet it sent me back to the little gauge sitting in the box that the saw came in but I had a brainwave and decided to speed things up. I called a chippy for a quote to finish for me. He suggested he could also use left over floorboards as skirting and proceeded to give me a lump sum quote (no detail) that would cost me almost as much than the professionals quoted to install the whole floor!!! Defeating the purpose of my hard (yet slow) work. So I'm back to DIY for ripping floorboards.

    Also, what do you think of the suggestion to use leftovers for skirting? I know I can mitre to fit but should I leave the tongue or shear it off (back to the darn saw?)

    If you guys could give me any hints to help me finish it would be greatly appreciated as the flatpack kitchen is still waiting

    TJM

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    664

    Default

    I am not sure what you are asking about ripping the last board. Do you want to know how to rip it,or how to get it in or ???As for usinf the left over for skirting, you could do that, but you would need to cut off the tongue and dress the edge.Will that then match what ever is already in the house?

    Tools

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Canberra ACT
    Posts
    15

    Post

    Sorry, I need to make a row of floorboards narrower to fit along the last wall - a full width floorboard is too wide. I am not good at straight cutting along the floorboard with my circular saw.

    Re skirting boards - I have already ripped out the skirting from the rest of the place (carpets is going in the bedrooms).

    thanks

    Teresa

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Grafton, N.S.W.
    Age
    63
    Posts
    1,330

    Default

    G'day.
    Set the board on saw horses.
    Set your saw fence to the size you need (fence to sawblade dimension).
    Start at one end and finish at the other.
    You know you have to leave a 12 mm gap between the floor and the wall?
    This makes it easy to get the last board in.
    I'd use pre-primed skirting. Buggerising around with recutting T&G will give you the screaming Sch1tz.

    Glue and T/nail the last board.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor
    Grafton

  6. #5
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Moo, G'day from CASINO NSW the real home of Beef.
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,336

    Default

    Hello Teresa, & welcome,

    A host of questions come to mind, including how much allowance are you making for expansion, what are the dimensions of the T&G? and what other tools you have at your disposal, thicknesser? hand planes? handsaws?
    If using leftovers for skirting materials one would imagine it would be a good idea to rip the tongue off and maybe try a new profile using a plane or router, otherwise it would look fairly average with the tongue poking up
    Bruce C.
    catchy catchphrase needed here, apply in writing to the above .

  7. #6
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Moo, G'day from CASINO NSW the real home of Beef.
    Age
    58
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    Default

    geez Trev that was quick off the mark .
    Bruce C.
    catchy catchphrase needed here, apply in writing to the above .

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Grafton, N.S.W.
    Age
    63
    Posts
    1,330

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by E. maculata View Post
    geez Trev that was quick off the mark .
    The quick and the dead, 2 to the body, one to the head. keeps the dead dead!
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor
    Grafton

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Canberra ACT
    Posts
    15

    Post

    Quote Originally Posted by E. maculata View Post
    Hello Teresa, & welcome,

    A host of questions come to mind, including how much allowance are you making for expansion, what are the dimensions of the T&G? and what other tools you have at your disposal, thicknesser? hand planes? handsaws?
    If using leftovers for skirting materials one would imagine it would be a good idea to rip the tongue off and maybe try a new profile using a plane or router, otherwise it would look fairly average with the tongue poking up
    Gents, many thanks and in order of your questions:
    (a) 12mm allowance on expansion (have the spacers)
    (b) T&G is 80 x 18mm, varying lengths.
    (c) have handplaner, handsaws - tenon, hacksaw etc
    (d) Happy to rip off tongue but if it means using the circular saw too much then chances are minimal Any other way to neatly remove tongue? Dont have a router (yet) and tools and a straight line is still something I'm striving.
    Also, to dress the pieces used for skirting presume that means sanding? (have a cheapo belt sander).

    thanks

    Teresa

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Canberra ACT
    Posts
    15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by glock40sw View Post
    G'day.
    Set the board on saw horses.
    Set your saw fence to the size you need (fence to sawblade dimension).
    Start at one end and finish at the other.
    You know you have to leave a 12 mm gap between the floor and the wall?
    This makes it easy to get the last board in.
    I'd use pre-primed skirting. Buggerising around with recutting T&G will give you the screaming Sch1tz.

    Glue and T/nail the last board.
    Thanks for this, not sure what you mean by fence to sawblade dimension?
    I know re the 12mm gap
    You may be right about the pre-primed skirting but I've got a few of the floorboards left since now carpeting the bedrooms.

    Teresa

  11. #10
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Moo, G'day from CASINO NSW the real home of Beef.
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,336

    Default

    The tongue can be removed reasonably quickly with a half decent handplane (#4 or up, would probably be best) .
    Trevor means (I think) using the fence supplied with the circular saw set (the fence that is) to whichever width you need and keeping aforementioned fence to the truest edge rip away (whilst the timber is securely held down, by mechaical means of course)and voila the last board you need to lay is made. Alternatively take to local joinery shop and plead or pay to get them to rip it to size.
    Bruce C.
    catchy catchphrase needed here, apply in writing to the above .

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    664

    Default

    If you are not familiar with using the saw guide, it would be better to run it along the waste side of the board so that you don't risk running off and ruining the piece you want.

    Tools

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Canberra ACT
    Posts
    15

    Default Thanks for the info

    Gents,

    Sounding a bit clearer now, I'll let you know how things go

    Many thanks

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    canberra, ACT
    Posts
    46

    Default

    Just take the board down to Magnet Mart and pay them a buck to rip it to size on their table saw. Bonus being that the cut is straight and all your fingers remain attached.

    Cheers

  15. #14
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    sydney
    Age
    64
    Posts
    364

    Default

    What i do is place the legnth of board to be ripped down at the spot it is going in. I then take a measurement every 500mm the width of the gap and deduck about 8mm. I then transfer that measurement onto the board. I then remove the bottom of the grove. I then join the dots along the board where the measurements have beem marked on to and then with my table saw cut of the bit i dont want. If you dont have a t/saw then use a power saw witrh the blade adjusted to the thickness of the board . i then apply glue on to the to of the tounge on the last board and then insert the ripped board. I cut up some small wedges and wedge the last board in to get a tight fit.

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Canberra ACT
    Posts
    15

    Post Update on progress

    Figured it was time to finish the floorboard install as the new kitchen appliances have arrived and I've started putting together the Ikea kitchen cabinets that have been sitting around for umm.. a while.

    Measured the boards and was heading down to MM to get them to cut to size when I realised the amount to remove was very small so I had an excuse to buy another new toy - electric planer...and it works really well for this job.
    I read various comments (good, bad and ugly)on the forum while researching them and how to use one - but its sooo good. Last row along the wall is done.

    Everyone, thanks for all your help and advice. (Larry, glue on tongue worked a treat and the final board is a nice fit.)

    I'll start a new thread on the kitchen reno as I have a few questions that I haven't yet found answers to elsewhere in the forum.

    cheers

    Teresa

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