Thread: Pergola Timber

Thanks Dan, I'll have to check out the price of this option. I have used this product before for weatherboard stops and it does give a nice clean finish.
Another issue is if it is sufficiently strong for my suspended pergola.

Andy

Why not try Merbu/Kwila. It is a hardwood that has excellent exterior properties. It's only downside is bleeding when it gets wet if you haven't sealed it. It has a greasy texture that repels water.

andy have a look at the link I gave you, the span tables are there too. If its 6m long you will get away with using 138x42, it spans up to 4m odd with a post in the middle it will be fine.

Thanks Dan. I had a look at the website. I think it will be ok. The pergola is about 6m wide without any posts but I have in place 2 small steel beams to support the end and middle of the pergola.

just saw that your in melbourne, I had trouble finding the stuff here and the prices varied greatly. I went with fowles timber in port melbourne.

Originally Posted by Pulse

We had an oregon pergola outside, dry rot after 6-8 years. Easy to work by in my opinion does not have the durability for external use.
Maybe hardwood or dressed TP

Cheers
Pulse

My Oregon pergola rotted out also. Replaiced it with zinc plated and powder coated steel much better no painting!

Phil

Dan, Tait timber in Tooronga have Design Pine but I'll check out Fowles as well.

Just wondering, I used oregon on my verandah which is completely covered, is it still prone to rot if it is outside but not exposed to the weather??

Builtforcomfort,

it should be OK, but often even outside ones are exposed to weather around the edges.

Cheers
Pulse

Just for general info.
All above ground 'exposed' timbers, to meet the requirements of the Timber Framing Code, need to be durability class 1 or 2.
External above ground timbers 'protected' can be Class 1,2,3 or 4 timbers.
Protected, as defined under the code, is where the roof or eaves overhang is greater than 30 degrees measured from the base of the timber and the timber is painted or stained and kept well ventilated.
Oregan is a class 4 timber.

Thanks for the post Peter.

Having a bit of trouble understanding the 30 degree bit, could you explain or possibly post an example with a diagram if at all possible ?


Thanks mate............... Sean

TP does have good credentials for this type of thing, and the solid stains available are pretty good. The suggestion of cypress-pine isn't silly either if you are talking members big enough to be drilling and bolting rather than nailing. They have the advantage of being naturally termite-resistant, and their own resin acts like a preservative. Their size is limited though; if you need 250 x 50 beams or similar, they are unlikely to exist. If you do opt for cypress-pine for use as decking, be aware that it will shrink fairly significantly with age, and don't shirk on the support..it isn't the strongest wood for lateral stress.
Good luck
Bill

Scooter. The 30 degrees is taken as a vertical angle from the exposed timber to the extent of the overhang. For example with a post the angle is taken from the bottom of the post & depending on the roof pitch could result in the need for a 1000mm overhang or even 1200mm. - The higher the post the greater the overhang.
Same thing with bearers & joists on a verandah. The higher the roof the greater the overhang needs to be to achieve the 30 degrees.
Obviously this is impractical & hence the need for using treated or durability class 1 or 2 timber.
A big problem that builders & DIY's face is that if you go into a timber yard & order OB for your bearers & joists as durability class 1 or 2 you'll usually receive a blank look from the staff.

Peter, I think I have it but could you suss this diagram to confirm?

Yeah, I know, slow learner...


Cheers mate.................Sean