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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Glebe
    Posts
    10

    Default Cant decide - cement render or plasterboard

    Can anyone please recomend which is the best way to go.....Cement render or plasterboard (with furring channels) onto internal brickwalls?

    I have stripped the internal walls of a terrace house back to the bare brickwork (old drummy lime sand plaster was removed). The walls are 2 bricks thick with no cavity. The house has had cracks in the old plaster from movement in the foundations (old sandstone block footings). A new dampcourse will be added and lateral damp problems addressed but I do not trust will ever be completly fixed

    1. Cement Render
    Pros:
    • hard durable finish
    • better resistance to any residual damp in walls
    • easy to work with and finish to corners, windows, etc
    Cons:
    • cracks harder to cover up if building moves
    • more work involved in chasing walls for electrical wiring
    2. Plasterboard (with 16mm metal furring channels as battens)
    Pros:
    • easier to run wiring behind walls
    • holds up better to building movement before cracks appear
    • easier to fix and cover up cracks
    Cons:
    • mould may form behind plasterboard
    • easy access for termites to travel to first floor timber flooring
    Thanks in advance

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    709

    Default

    Actually the plasterboard on battens is better for rising damp as an air gap is created and the plasterboard is isolated from the carrier of the dampness ie. THE BRICKS.

    I guess you would need to do a cost comparison as well the plaster board on battens fixed to brick will cost about $18 to $20 per m2.

    I cant tell you what the cost of render is perhaps someone else could help.

    I know I would go with plasterboard but then I am a little bit biased.

    Cheers Rod
    Great plastering tips at
    www.how2plaster.com

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Albury
    Posts
    12

    Default

    I say render but im also biased.
    If your looking to do the render yourself, it can start at around $5 per square.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    709

    Default

    Sand and cements sure is cheaper as far as materials go but very few can do a good diy render job without some prior experience.

    cheers Rod
    Great plastering tips at
    www.how2plaster.com

  6. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Albury
    Posts
    12

    Default

    I have never actually worked out a costing for how much sand and cement is per square meter but it is quite cheap. However the labour is where the expense comes into it.
    Acrylic renders start from $5 per m2 and are a bit easier to use.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    709

    Default

    Although I don't think you would consider Acrylic render for internal walls would you?

    I have no idea really, I just cant remember ever seeing it used indoors.
    Great plastering tips at
    www.how2plaster.com

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Sale
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    68
    Posts
    1,328

    Default

    If you want a decent job inside I really wouldn't think DIY render cuts it. With solid brick walls and no cavity on sandstone foundations a solid surface is asking for cracks. You really want to know how to bridge old cracks in the brickwork and have a base coat with a bit of give to allow movement. And before anyone asks I don't really know what I'm talking about when it comes to inside walls.

    John.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Youre personal choice really.
    I am lucky enough to be able to do both myself.
    I personally went with render in my home with a hard plaster setting on top. that matched the rest of my home.
    You got a blank canvas so you do as you please.
    I like both materials but honestly i must say a botched rendering job can be horendous where as plasterboard is usually safe in fixing methods.

    as long as you address the damp issue and dont just cover it up. if you are going for an old style look, render will add character.

    Enjoy.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Albury
    Posts
    12

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rod@plasterbrok View Post
    Although I don't think you would consider Acrylic render for internal walls would you?

    I have no idea really, I just cant remember ever seeing it used indoors.
    Acrylic renders are virtually the same as the traditional renders but with a refined sand and polymers and other modifiers added in. I don't know what they actually put in them but it works for me.

    We use alot of both the traditional sand, cement and the acrylic renders and the main difference is the labour. Acrylic renders are a bit quicker but can also be the downfall. The quality can suffer when quantity is more important.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    33

    Default

    The place we've bought is absolutely riddled with rising damp (but we knew that), and while I'd love to redo the render once we've finished the new damp course, I'm not confident I could do that much work, that well, so I'm probably going to lean towards using board.

    But I am going to have a crack at render first in one minor (ie hidden!) room, if I can 'learn' there I'd love to keep the traditional methods throughout the home where possible.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    mayland W.A
    Posts
    137

    Default

    a thread i can contribute to . makes me fell better about asking so many questions ...

    i went through this on the last reno, plaster or render and after doing render i would have to say that next time i would use plaster board .

    some of the resons that have not been mentioned .

    rendering is bloody messy
    it cost a $hit load to do
    it's not for DIY
    it takes a long time
    a bad job looks terrible
    and you have to wait about 4 week for the moisture to get out of the render before you can paint it .

    the down side of plaster board is it might sound drummy .

    (imo)
    Rob

  13. #12
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Cronulla, NSW
    Posts
    58

    Default

    I had similar issues and wanted to stay with Render for an original/traditional finish but eventually gave up and put in Gyprock - one of the better decisions made in the never ending process. With fancy cornices and skirtings the walls are not the feature anyway.

    Gyprock is quick, relatively cheap and doable for the non trades enthusiast and is an 'immediate fix' so you can move on to the next job. After two or three goes at various rendering products in different areas I just could not get it right and it looked it! Variations in wall alignment, changes to window/door layouts, additional partitions etc are all dramas in render but not gyprock. Think about the amount of time an inexperienced amateur would take to get a 3600 x 2700 high wall covered evenly in render as against fixing 2 sheets of 3600 x 1350 gyprock!!

    I did not do it, but if you wanted to, one of the render type paints could possibly still give the traditional render look on a gyprock wall.

    Good luck either way

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Glebe
    Posts
    10

    Default Plasterboard onto brickwork

    Has anyone had problems with mould growing behind plasterboard when fixing to internal brickwork with 16mm furring channels??.......(note: no ventilation is available in my case)

    cheers
    john

  15. #14
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    Queanbeyan
    Age
    60
    Posts
    1,252

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by john9996 View Post
    Has anyone had problems with mould growing behind plasterboard when fixing to internal brickwork with 16mm furring channels??.......(note: no ventilation is available in my case)

    cheers
    john
    Thats exactly how I replastered our existing house some 3/4 years ago, I have had no problems - I think the 16mm of battens create the air space needed for ventilation and the plaster/brickwork cavity opens into the ceiling.
    There was a young boy called Wyatt
    Who was awfully quiet
    And then one day
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    Floorsanding in Canberra and Albury.....

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    perth
    Posts
    83

    Default

    Can you give information on how old the terraced house is how straight is the brickwork? Mainly in old buildings the brickwork is not straight at all. If you have solved all the dampness problems from the outside then you can start work on the inside. If you have not stopped the dampness then after you applied new render or sheeting you will get problems again.
    If you walk into old houses with just lime and sand, the walls may be drummy but the walls are still standing so its a proven product. Lime is a proven product so if you rerender (float) using a high lime content say 6 sand 1 cement and 1.5 lime you cant go wrong if all your walls are screeded straight you will have the best proffesional finish and it will look the nicest all your new arches and picture rails will look real nice on straight work

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