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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Darwin, Northern Territory
    Age
    47
    Posts
    315

    Default Baton/Plaque Project

    Heres my latest project. A first for me, this one was totally designed for a mate of mine who is leaving shortly. I thought it came up alright. The wood I used is just pine, plain old pine. The stain is mahagony with no lacquer. Only took about three hours to get up to this stage just waiting for the trophy shop to finish the brass/enamel placard for the bottom.

    The baton is designed to UK Bobby specifications (similar to the ones they used about a century ago).

    Just a quick one, when turning the baton and after finishing it, I removed it by hacking away at it with a chisel. This left some large marks at the top and botton which took ages to sand out. Does anyone have any tips for easier removal. (I have only just come concerned about this problem as I usually make table legs and the like which do not really require the attention this sort of project does.

    Any ideas or comments would be great.

    Cheers

    Kris
    Last edited by Kris.Parker1; 7th September 2004 at 10:17 AM.
    "Last year I said I'd fix the squeak in the cupbaord door hinge... Right now I have nearly finished remodelling the whole damn kitchen!"

    [email protected]

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Mount Colah, Sydney
    Age
    72
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    Default

    Kris

    Provided you have left yourself enough length, the drill is to make a V-cut, using the long point of the skew, down to the smallest diameter you feel brave enough to go to, at each end of your finished job. I would go down to about 5-6 mm, provided you are only taking light cuts. You could go a little smaller.

    You can then either use the short point of the skew to "roll" the curved profile, as you would a bead, or the long point to cut off square, or undercut.

    After removing from the lathe, cut the stubs off on bandsaw, or by hand, and finish by carving smooth with a sharp chisel or gouge, and a final sanding.

    Hope this helps

    Alastair

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
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    Darwin, Northern Territory
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    Talking

    Thanks for that tip Alastair, I will use that next time. I knew there had to be a neater way of doing things. Plus it will also save on the wear of my chisels.

    Cheers

    Kris
    "Last year I said I'd fix the squeak in the cupbaord door hinge... Right now I have nearly finished remodelling the whole damn kitchen!"

    [email protected]

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Canberra
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    Default

    Kris have you ever heard of a parting off tool?
    Cheers
    Barry

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
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    Darwin, Northern Territory
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    Default

    Baz,

    No I haven't but I will hit mitre 10 or Nortruss up for one tommorrow.

    Cheers

    Kris
    "Last year I said I'd fix the squeak in the cupbaord door hinge... Right now I have nearly finished remodelling the whole damn kitchen!"

    [email protected]

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    Mount Colah, Sydney
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    72
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    923

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Baz
    Kris have you ever heard of a parting off tool?
    Cheers
    Barry
    Baz

    I suggested the Skew/ cut off route as a rounded and finished profile was needed. Also, he is looking at both ends.

    Alastair

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Canberra
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    74
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    690

    Default

    Kris if you are going to get a parting off tool get a diamond ( shape) one.
    Alistair, you can use a parting off tool to round off the ends and if you carefully take the tailstock end down to about 4-5mm then carefully part off at the headstock end. Then use a skew chisel to pare the excess of the ends and then sand.
    Cheers
    Barry

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
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    Darwin, Northern Territory
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    Default

    No worries, I will keep that in mind. Thanks for the advice.
    "Last year I said I'd fix the squeak in the cupbaord door hinge... Right now I have nearly finished remodelling the whole damn kitchen!"

    [email protected]

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Pomona, QLD
    Age
    73
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    546

    Default

    Hey Kris, there's an old guy in Winnellie that would probably have a parting tool he could sell you, he's there every Saturday morning.

    Peter

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
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    Darwin, Northern Territory
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    Default

    Festy,

    Thanks, can you let me know exactly where he is located, and I'll more thank likley drop in on Saturday.

    Cheers
    "Last year I said I'd fix the squeak in the cupbaord door hinge... Right now I have nearly finished remodelling the whole damn kitchen!"

    [email protected]

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
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    Pomona, QLD
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    Default

    Hello Kris,

    His name is Ian McRaild. He's at Unit 7, 59 Reichardt RD, just down the hill from Bunnings, 1st left (into Reichardt Rd) then 1st left again short left, then right - last unit. He teaches turning and sells some gear as well, worth the visit.

    Peter

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Darwin, Northern Territory
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    47
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    Default

    Thanks for that mate. Have a good weekend.

    Cheers

    Kris
    "Last year I said I'd fix the squeak in the cupbaord door hinge... Right now I have nearly finished remodelling the whole damn kitchen!"

    [email protected]

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Darwin, Northern Territory
    Age
    47
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    315

    Default

    Just another thought while I'm here. Can any one tell me if it makes much difference if I sand my work back using 1200 grade sandpaper to using a lower grade. The only reason I ask is that I find it harder to stain at the 1200 level unlike the same stain at 400 - 600 grade.

    Cheers

    Kris
    "Last year I said I'd fix the squeak in the cupbaord door hinge... Right now I have nearly finished remodelling the whole damn kitchen!"

    [email protected]

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