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Thread: CD Cabinet -- WIP
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15th January 2007, 07:32 AM #46Member
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Hinges & latches
Zenwood,
Fantastic photo series.
As for hinges & latches James Krenov might have some useful ideas... His cabinets tend to open fully, but have overhanging tops & bottom, so might not fit in with your design
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15th January 2007, 10:04 AM #47
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15th January 2007, 10:42 AM #48GOLD MEMBER
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Magnets would be good, some of those tiny, powerful jobs. ?Berilium or something. Anyway, you could drill a small hole in the top of the door and the frame, put a magnet in each and the door would hold like magic with no contact. I guess you could even hide the magnet behind a plug, they're very powerful...
Great series zenwood.
Edit: Neodymium is what I was thinking. If you look on Jaycar.com.au, and search for rare earth magnet, they have some, but the smallest diameter is 10mm I've seen smaller diameters, but can't remember where...
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15th January 2007, 11:01 AM #49
Look on ebay under rare earth magnets, I bought a pack of 100 6x6mm epoxy coated cylinders for about $20, if hiding them in the timber I would use one either side just to ensure they grip, but they are certainly powerful little beasties.
Can't remember who I got them from but it was a Qld based company, took a few days to arrive but I suspect he sells a hell of a lot.
(Ensure you put north to south unless you want to confuse SWMBO )
Just had a look, http://cgi.ebay.com.au/10-x-Disc-Neo...QQcmdZViewItem is the seller I got mine fromLast edited by Iain; 15th January 2007 at 11:05 AM. Reason: Supplier of magnets
Stupidity kills. Absolute stupidity kills absolutely.
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15th January 2007, 11:27 PM #50
Adding some width to the door panels
.
Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.
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16th January 2007, 08:28 PM #51
Zen, just worked my way through the entire thread, and viewed & examined every pic.
Thanks for the effort, mate, the pics are sharp & clear, & the comments on each one clarify what you're doing. It's a lot of work doing a WIP thread, so more power to yer arm.
Good to see you putting up your stuffups & how you're fixing them - helps us all learn.
Well done with the sliding tapered d/t, velly velly patient!
Rare earth magnet/s in plugged holes would be the go I reckon. For the hinges for your inset doors, what about these? Don't take my word for it though, ask someone who knows what they're talking about
Keep it coming, mate....................cheers................Sean
The beatings will continue until morale improves.
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16th January 2007, 10:34 PM #52
Thanks for the encouraging words Sean. I need all the help I can get to get me out in the shed: so little time!!!!
I think I'm leaning towards this kind of ball catch: adjustable catching strength, unobtrusive, and easy to install:
I've also got hold of some very nice hinges, though they won't alleviate the problem I've identified, being just plain flat leaf hinges of high quality. Might just have to live with a loss of space at the extremities of the shelves.Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.
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17th January 2007, 07:51 AM #53
Yep ball catches are easy to install... just remember to mount them vertical not horizontal on upright doors, otherwise the arc of the door swing will stop it shutting DAMHIKT!
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17th January 2007, 10:49 AM #54
I was intending to install them horizontally just underneath the middle shelf. I've got nowhere to install them vertically I did a drawing, and the maximum lateral displacement for a door 330 mm wide opening out by 5 mm (my estimate of the radius of the ball bearing) is about 0.5 mm. Are they that precise that the arc of the door affects their operation?
Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.
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17th January 2007, 11:15 AM #55
G'day Zenwood,
A superb thread and as Sean has posted your pics with copy in them are fantastic.
Re: the the ball/catches, I chose to go with the 49mm, which I'm guessing in your pic is D. I thought of going for the larger size, E, but thought that they may be to obtrusive. This thinking is based on a project I am making which will have doors via frame & panel 450x900x16 made of T/Oak fixed to a carcass of T/Oak 450x900x95.
Would you go size D or E?
Doors will be fitted to a 2nd larger carcass with piano hinges.
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17th January 2007, 12:05 PM #56
Cheers, Waldo.
I'm thinking of the smallest size catch (A) for my cabinet. Here are the sizes in the pic:
A. 38mm x 7mm
B. 43mm x 8mm
C. 50mm x 9mm
D. 60mm x 11mm
E. 70mm x 13mmThose are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.
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17th January 2007, 02:40 PM #57Intermediate Member
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How about using a single ball catch, which is mounted underneath the door? I haven't used any of these myself but have seen them used on good quality hand made furniture and thought they looked quite classy. I'm not sure if Wilson and Bradley would sell them in small numbers but maybe they do. You can see what i mean at www.wilbrad.com.au/catalog/063.pdf
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17th January 2007, 03:43 PM #58
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17th January 2007, 04:35 PM #59Intermediate Member
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I didnt notice how much the front of the strike plate sticks out until you mentioned it. When I've seen them installed in cabinets I havent noticed the strike plate sticking out. I think if I used them I would remove most of the strike plate so that you couldnt see the brass when the door was shut especially if the door is flush with the bottom of the cabinet. You could also mount the catches on the top of the door if this was going to be less noticeable. Recessing the striking plate into the wood will also make it look less noticeable.
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17th January 2007, 04:56 PM #60Intermediate Member
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Actually these catches look better but dont know where you'd get them in Australia.
http://www.whitechapel-ltd.com/Merch...y_Code=ballcth
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