Thread: console stand and laptop storage

John

I'm off to bed, but here's a second version
you didn't specify the height of the rails, so I've guessed 5"

I ripped it to 5 1/8"

Thanks Ian.

Had a bit of luck, able to do a couple of hours today because my hospital appointment went well. Seen ten minutes earlier than appointment time and then given a clean bill of health. However I do have another appointment for a participant vascular program/experiment coming up.

So machined the balance of rail tenons on the sled and worked the tenon shapes on one piece.

Originally Posted by jow104

I ripped it to 5 1/8"

Thanks Ian.

That means they will finish arround 5-1/16"

I'll leave the drawing as is.
I should have advised that the drawing canvas is 277 x 190mm and the drawing will print on A4 at true 1:4 scale if the printer margins are set to 10mm top, bottom, left & right

Thanks again.

Should look good when done Jow. It looks sturdy enough to spport the Queen Mary.

Originally Posted by artme

Should look good when done Jow. It looks sturdy enough to spport the Queen Mary.

Yes I agree it is over engineered, but 1/2" thick timber would have looked like a preteenager.

Oh dear, oh dear, oh dear. Is it time to hang up my tools.


I have cut the front top and bottom rail shoulders as tenons and they shouldn't be.




Done a quick run round and I can supply new pieces with some fiddling and without doing machine jobs.

Why didn't you tell me?

There's an easier way ...
just glue some fillets onto the tennon checks (wider and thicker than the missing wood), plane the fillets so the repaired area is the same width and thickness as the rest of the rail, then just cut the joint you intended.
The repair will be hidden inside the joint, and the glue bond (assuming you don't use hide glue) will be as strong or stronger than the surrounding wood

Ian, we must have gone to the same school, I had that instruction 60 years ago.

Had what I call a good session in the workshop Saturday.

Made up some replacement pieces for rails from left over machinings of earlier rails. And on one rail I glued on some cheeks like Ian suggested.



Did all the marking up of joints and got out the old shoulder jig,(Derek Cohens idea) and set up ready for dovetail and tenon shoulders that could not be machined.



For those that have not seen this in operation before, the cross piece of timber on jig maintains the shoulder line for all pieces and a chisel marks the cutting line.



The dovetails on the rails are cut with a Japanese saw, I have to be so careful with these saws because its so easily to cross the cutting line.



Finished off the dovetails on the rails with a chisel.



Cut the leg dovetail . Perhaps they should have been half tails, but being away from this type of carpentry for three years things at my age slip.




Thinking ahead, I normally use Titebond 3 but I am a little bit slower these days assembling, do you think I would be better off switching to a longer grabbing time with perhaps a pva type glue.

Originally Posted by jow104

Thinking ahead, I normally use Titebond 3 but I am a little bit slower these days assembling, do you think I would be better off switching to a longer grabbing time with perhaps a pva type glue?

John,
you could try Titebond's Polyurathane glue which has a 20 minute open time
or
Balcotan -- which I've never used but have read good thing about in terms of it's open time and grip

For those interested this was the way I cut joints on the front and legs for this table.

The waste in leg dovetails were first drilled out with a 1/4" forstner bit, as was the mortice for the lower frame.





Then finished with appropriate sized chisels.

A picture of front frame with joints completed.



And to separate the tenon joints this is a happy situation, the feet have to hold the frame whilst pulling out the rail, just tight enough for me.



To cut the long mortices (six of them) I got out my jig for the router which I think I last used over 4 years ago. A description on how I operate is shown in following pictures.





I clamp on stops to limit travel of router.



And the end result.



My workbench at the end of the day, disgusting.

John, have you decided to move the drawer case up to the top, then? Had I known, I already have a plan drawn for a table done that way. Some quick modifications would have given you all the dimensions you needed.

Looks like you're well on your way to getting it built. Good on you.

Dave R