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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    new jersey, usa
    Age
    61
    Posts
    22

    Default inlayed octagon coffee table

    when the wood speaks to you--you listen. either that, or its time to get out of the shop, as you've inhaled a bit to much of those finishing fumes.

    this table started life as several 2 "x 2 " x 14" long bubinga blocks. two faces had simple straight grain, while the other two had a wonderfully wavy character to them. wanting the most bang for my buck, i ripped the blocks into inlay slices to best expose the beauty of the wood on the "touch surfaces" of my project. the table perimeter seemed the best area for it.

    i started growing the table from the center outward, using poplar and a biscuit-like method with my router's rabbet bit. while poplar wouldnt have been my first choice, lets just say it was convenient (HDepot I confess!). the legs are mahogany arcs, with 1/4' luan slotted into them. i guess the table is actually 98% done; you might notice the holes in the mahogany pieces. these were leftover from threaded rods which held the arcs 4-together while i belt sanded the group to match shape. i just haven't gotten around to finding or making mahogany dowels. i think that finished buttons there would be a poor choice.

    the finish is tung oil over a light amber stain to give the poplar a little color.

    i'm a tabletop rookie, and the more i read and look at it....i think i have created a glued nightmare:eek: of compression and expansion within this top. the bubinga is about 1/4 inch thick. maybe i should just enjoy it while it's new, and be happy if i get 4 years before the cracks start.

    anyone want to share their tabletop wisdom, woes, or sob story? i'd appreciate any comments, as the design is an original one.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Port Pirie SA
    Age
    52
    Posts
    6,908

    Default

    I likes it, bit trendy really!
    ....................................................................

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Toowoomba Q 4350
    Posts
    9,217

    Thumbs up

    Ni GB,

    Definitely enjoy it! It's a very beautiful, eye pleasing shape and design.

    Cheers
    Wendy

    PS - Welcome to the club

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2000
    Location
    Sydney, NSW
    Posts
    2,261

    Default

    Looks great, unfortunately am unable to offer any assistance to you
    Brett

    Only Robinson Crusoe could get everything done by Friday!

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Coffs Harbour
    Posts
    2,018

    Default

    Your table looks great.
    It is a bit surprising how well the curves and the angles go well together.

    Bubinga has some great figure and polishes up a treat.

    You are probably right about future problems with wood movement. I don't have much in the way of solutions. Like you said, enjoy until it decides to move. If it moves.
    If you end up with gaps, hopefully along the glue lines, you could rout them all out and put in black and white inlay stips.

    It may never happen so just enjoy a good job.
    Scally
    __________________________________________
    The ark was built by an amateur
    the titanic was built by professionals

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    87
    Posts
    1,327

    Default

    Very striking design gristleburger . I like it - I just hope your worst fears are not realized . Tell us about the legs and how you matched the curve of the edging to the body of the leg
    I've just become an optimist . Iv'e made a 25 year plan -oopps I've had a few birthdays - better make that a 20 year plan

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    new jersey, usa
    Age
    61
    Posts
    22

    Default

    tanks for the tumbs up, peter ....

    the legs are a lightweight combination of the 3/4 inch mahogany arcs and the luan, neither of which provide much strength by themselves. all i really had in mind was the eye appeal - i liked the non-centric combo of the center cutout and the edge profile. (and the contrasting color). the mahogany is evenly about 2 inches wide, and is really designed to carry the vertical load of the table. i tried to use the luan in tension and to position and just stabilize the legs. the mahogany was shaped and smoothed using the belt sander, then the 7/16 x 1/2" slots were routed into the inside edges using my table router and rabbetting bit. the luan was simply cut afterwards with a jigsaw, then glued into the slot and secured with a few brads.

    the luan is in 3 pieces - a half circle, and two quarter circles.

    securing the legs to the top was a bit less pretty. it was done with 4 small blocks anchored to the top underside, then the tops of the legs were screwed into the blocks. not very strong, or attractive--but no one sees it. the table is reasonably stable and strong enough for most purposes; but i wouldn't risk a quickie with the wife on it. save that fun for the hood of the car!

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    464

    Default

    good work mate,
    I too have the inlay/table bug. How did you do the curves? Router with home made templates? I am looking at spirocraft products to add curved designs. I only inlay using solid timber, not veneer.

    Keep up the good work.
    conwood

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    new jersey, usa
    Age
    61
    Posts
    22

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by conwood
    good work mate,
    I too have the inlay/table bug. How did you do the curves? Router with home made templates? I am looking at spirocraft products to add curved designs. I only inlay using solid timber, not veneer.

    Keep up the good work.
    conwood
    thanks conwood---

    i like the inlay table stuff too, mainly because if you do a decent job, your work is in a high visibility location. of course, when you f*** up a section and are tempted to leave your mess with just a passing grade, it will haunt you forever, staring up at you...

    on your Q about the curves: if your talking about the mahogany, they were cut from 4/4 stock with a jigsaw tracing a path scribed by a nail, string and pencil. no templates, just on-the- fly wood sketching. they were bolted together as 4, then belt sanded en masse. they could just as easily have been done with a router with an arc cutting radius jig.

    as for the inlays...in this case they are all straight edge geometric patterns. ive never heard of the spirocraft things which you mentioned, but i may check that out on the web some night. i havent tackled curved inlays yet, but i get bored quickly and love to try new tricks when i see others do them well. maybe those are next.

    keep clear of your blade, and lumber on!
    gb

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Port Macquarie
    Age
    54
    Posts
    2,123

    Default

    Nice table GB, What angle are the cuts for each segment, I'd like to make an Octagonal Poker Table at some stage but I'm a bit afraid of angles.

    HH.
    Always look on the bright side...

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