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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Canada
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    34
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    51

    Default Japanese hand plane (Hira ganna)

    I made this plane in two days , it measures 7 3/4 long 2 5/16 wide and 1 1/4 thick. I made it out of red oak to ensure that it would last some time.Also the balde is angled at 45 so it easy to pull , and is about the perfect angle for normal N.American woods. The plane accepts a 1 3/8 wide by 4 7/16 long blade by stanley. As you can see in one picture alot of grain tore out when drilling and placing the rod (it happens to the best my teacher says). Right now it's untuned and as you can see in the pictures it takes quite fine shavings.

    Please tell me what you think










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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Vic - Morwell
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    Default

    Looks fantastic.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2005
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    Eden Hills, South Australia
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    Default

    Nice job Kristian: looks like it does the job.

    Some comments:
    1. I wonder if the blade is located a bit far back? Putting it further forward would give the rear hand somewhere to go. Maybe this isn't a problem if the plane is used in pull-mode.

    2. I bet a thicker blade would really improve performance.

    3. I think wooden plane bodies usually have the endgrain growth rings on the front running in the up/down direction as much as possible. This means that the bottom of the plane stays flat through changes in humidity.

    4. Did you use a brad-point drill? These are designed to eliminate torn edges when drilling holes.
    Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Canada
    Age
    34
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    51

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by zenwood
    1. I wonder if the blade is located a bit far back? Putting it further forward would give the rear hand somewhere to go. Maybe this isn't a problem if the plane is used in pull-mode.
    I actualy just made it to my own hands , that way no one can borrow it and wreck it!

    Quote Originally Posted by zenwood
    2. I bet a thicker blade would really improve performance.
    I agree too , Lee Valley offers a thicker replacement blade from a japanese plane [/quote]

    Quote Originally Posted by zenwood
    3. I think wooden plane bodies usually have the endgrain growth rings on the front running in the up/down direction as much as possible. This means that the bottom of the plane stays flat through changes in humidity.
    That makes sence to me , I'll remember that when I make another
    Quote Originally Posted by zenwood
    4. Did you use a brad-point drill? These are designed to eliminate torn edges when drilling holes.
    I used an old , dull twist bit

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Pambula
    Age
    58
    Posts
    12,779

    Default

    Top job mate. I have a Japanese style plane and the blade on it is very close to the back like yours. When using it in push mode, I hold the back of the body with my thumb and finger in a 'C' shape - what the midwives call a soft 'C' - but you'll learn about that in a few years .

    Nice one
    "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."

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