Thread: Is radiata pine that bad!

For myself, RP is the reason I am still doing woodwork, and looking to take the next step by buying a dedicated table saw, bandsaw, domino and dust extractor. Already got a thicknesser and just recently got a 2nd hand jointer.

In the meantime, I have built 2 single beds, 1 queen size bed, 2 large bookcases, babies change table, 3 cupboard computer desk, 72 bottle wine rack with 2 crystal cupboards and large TV unit with slide out dvd and cd storage, all out of pine bought straight from either bunnies or M10.

And all done with just a triton, triton biscuit joiner, triton random orbital sander attachment for angle grinder, Makita router and a 12 inch Ryobi thicknesser.

Yes it is soft, no it won't last for generations, but what it has done is given me a hobby that I really enjoy, and Iam now ready and confident to take the step up to the "big league" and start making some quality furniture.

First cab of the rank will be a dining table and 8 chairs, probably made from Vic Ash. And yes, I know that it is not considered a quality timber, but I have used a little of constructing a large outdoor table and I quite like it. It is relatively cheap, and easy to work with, and accessible around here.

That is probably the biggest problem up my way, getting access to good quality timber at a reasonable price. This is why all my previous stuff has been made from pine.

I have no trouble with Pinus . It has its quirks , and if needs a bit more sanding , so be it .
I like it natural , but if darker colour is needed ,
I use water based natural fiber dyes , instead of stain , and I find that it allows the true gran figure to show clearly.
Something that often gets blurred with stain .
I sand the piece to the finest that I can , especially the end grain , and then wet it , enough to bring out any dents , and fury bits , and then allow to dry , and sand again .
I then liberally brush on , or soak it , with the dye , and dry .
When bone dry , I burnish it , rather than sand , and then oil ( olive for me ) to seal in the dye.
From this point it can be oiled further , or lacquered .

One of the benefits of dye is that you can mix two , or dilute , to suit .

Originally Posted by RufflyRustic

Chipman,

Here's my thread on a pine cabinet I made earlier this year. I used to think badly of pine, but after using it for various bits and pieces, I've come to appreciate it when used for the right purpose.

I'm also working/playing with another interesting pine board piece at present where I've routed the end grain and WOW the end result of grain display is incredible!

cheers
Wendy

Hi Wendy,

You certainly found some nice timber there and with your skill and creativity, you were able to turn it into a really nice piece of furniture... out of interest, how did you eventually finish it? Stain or natural?

You may remeber this blanket box I made out of radiata (also from bunnings) https://www.woodworkforums.com.au/sho...hlight=chipman

Like Geoff said, many of us would not have been able to take up woodwork with out a reasonably priced and readily available timber like RP.

I tend to scrounge up small pieces of the more exotics to make my clocks and woodturnings as that way I cn still afford it.

Regards,

Chipman

Originally Posted by Manuka Jock

I have no trouble with Pinus . It has its quirks , and if needs a bit more sanding , so be it .
I like it natural , but if darker colour is needed ,
I use water based natural fiber dyes , instead of stain , and I find that it allows the true gran figure to show clearly.
Something that often gets blurred with stain .
I sand the piece to the finest that I can , especially the end grain , and then wet it , enough to bring out any dents , and fury bits , and then allow to dry , and sand again .
I then liberally brush on , or soak it , with the dye , and dry .
When bone dry , I burnish it , rather than sand , and then oil ( olive for me ) to seal in the dye.
From this point it can be oiled further , or lacquered .

One of the benefits of dye is that you can mix two , or dilute , to suit .

Hi MJ,
I would like to see some pics of your work... I am especially interested in your finishing techniques.

Regards, Chipman

Geoff Dean, I grew up in Mt. Beauty, at the head of the Kiewa valley. In those days there were two mills operating - one at Mt. Beauty, one at Tawonga - both producing the most beautiful pink-toned Alpine Ash you could imagine.

We didn't know how well off we were.

Hi Ron,

Thanks for that, when I have my new machines I will chase them up if they are still operating, rough sawn timber is what I will be after.

Hi Chipman,

Thank you for your kind words. I ended up using Satin clear, Minimax Wipe-on Poly. I certainly remember your "never-again" chest Amazing work and detail in the top.

If you are interested in trying water dyes, try UBeaut's Water Dyes. I can recommend them from my own experience, both on timber and leather as well.

cheers
Wendy

Hi Wendy,

I have recently purchased some Ubeaut water dyes... I am planning to make some blocks for my "adopted grandaughter" so it will be a bit of fun learning how to use the dyes. I plan to finish the blocks with shellac. (haven't used shellac since school days!)

Regards

Chipman

Nothing wrong with pine at all, put to the right use in the right way. Here's an example I made a while ago: a utility table (with hardwood edge protection).