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  1. #1
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    Default Studio Pencil Box build WIP

    After watching David Stanton on YouTube make a studio pencil box, I decided to have a go myself and make one for my wife.

    I started with some19mm premium pine, and had to thickness it to 12mm.

    image.jpg

    Then I cut each piece making sure The grain would all join back up when I do my box joints.

    image.jpg

    Next was to set up my Rockler box joint jig for 1/4" fingers.

    image.jpg

    A quick test test to make sure I had it set up properly.

    image.jpg

    image.jpg

    Ready to go!

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  3. #2
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    Default

    image.jpg

    Pretty happy with it, I like how the grain runs continuously around the box.

    now for the glue up.

    image.jpg

    to be continued.....

  4. #3
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    Default

    Looking good ... Did you have to resaw the wood to get the grain match on all 4 corners?


    What finish will you be using?

    Regards

    Rob

  5. #4
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tahlee View Post
    Looking good ... Did you have to resaw the wood to get the grain match on all 4 corners?


    What finish will you be using?

    Regards

    Rob
    hi Rob. Not sure what you mean by 'Resaw' - I am a newbie to woodworking, I just cut each piece for my box from one length of premium pine, making sure I cut it the right order so the grain was continued.

    As for finish, I will use a water base clear to keep the natural look. I will be making drawers out or cedar so there will be a nice contrast.

    Cheers

    Ben

  6. #5
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    Default

    Thanks Ben,

    I just watched David's video ... this is quite some project ... not a one weekend only job!!

    Thats a heck of a lot of routing to be done, I wouldn't use a ruler to move the fence ...use a 10mm spacer ... or several spacers and add/remove one after each cut if you have space on your router table top ... just gotta make sure that you have a stop block at the left hand edge of the spacers that you can realign each time you add or remove a spacer.

    Resaw is when you bandsaw an slice a slab of wood down its narrow edge .. some do this so that then you open it up you have a mirror image of the pieces each side of the middle cut (bookmatched is the phrase used for this).

    You have only to use a piece that is two sides long when you resaw because you end up with two pieces of timber ... each 2 sides long .... and if you cut them to length in the right order right then the bookmatched surfaces will match perfectly at every corner (think about it!!) ... but that is something that generally only woodworkers will pick up on anyway.

    Looks like you have got it very close with the 4th one (nice planning when making the purchase) ...but I guess the 3 exposed sides will be perfectly matched .. and the 4th corner will be on the bottom.

    You choice of timber colour contrast sounds very appealing and the finish should be very nice ...

    Some people do the finish before they assemble ... leaving only the glue edges bare (painters tape is good for this) .. you will usually find that this method makes finishing much easier as all surfaces can be laid out flat on the table for final sanding and finish coats, and depending on the finish (I use wax mainly now) squeeze out glue wont be a problem.

    MiniWax (Masters stock it) has a water based rub on clear poly ... great for boxes that get a lot of handling ... spread it thin, (that's thin) with a cloth rubber (no brush marks) and apply 3 coats ...make sure to leave it a full half day to dry between coats although it will feel dry after a few minutes ... it takes time to harden .... dont use steel wool to sand between coats ... lightly use (that's lightly) 600 grit.

    Thanks for sharing

    Please post pic of your progress

    Rob

  7. #6
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    Hey Rob,
    thanks heaps for your help. I will get some mini wax and give that a go as I build. That will make it easier. I am going to attempt to Resaw my cedar, it's 13mm and I need 6mm, hopefully my little Ryobi bandsaw can do it )
    Ben

  8. #7
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    Default

    Stage 2 update...

    now the box itself is dry, I need to cut a piece for the back of the box and the shelf supports. Once again I had to use the Thicknesser to reduce the 19mm pine to 12mm.

    image.jpg

    its a messy job and my little cyclone shop vac dust collector filled up twice!

    image.jpg

    image.jpg

  9. #8
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    Then I swapped out to my new cross cutting blade, this blade is awesome! Such a clean cut.

    image.jpg

    And i I cut the back piece and the drawer support shelves to width.

    image.jpg

  10. #9
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    Final step for this morning was to glue the back in, and I had to joint a couple of peices so I had 4 drawer support shelves.

    image.jpg

    Did someone say you can never have too many clamps? I am starting to believe it

    image.jpg

    off to to sushi bay with the boss for lunch and if I can convince her, a quick trip to Masters for some mini wax and maybe a couple more clamps
    Attached Images Attached Images

  11. #10
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    Default

    HI Ben,

    Looking good.

    Just a note on resawing ... I always find it best to rough cut the pieces to width before resawing if that is possible, because resawing a 250mm tall piece of timber creates its own problems.. If your blade or the board's bottom is out of 90 degrees then the öutness"is magnified with a tall board (if you were out .5mm on 100mm high stock then that would be 1.5mm on 250 stock. ALSO, and more importantly, timber has inbuilt tensions, as you cut it these are released .. so you get cupping and bowing .....sometimes even while still on the bandsaw!!. The degree of bow can be extreme with some timbers especially if cutting tall pieces. My 14inch Laguna has come to a stop while cutting hard maple because the band was jambed in the bowing timber!!

    Rough cutting to width also helps in avoiding waste if it cups or if the cut is not absolutely perpendicular. It is also easier to plane to final dimension too.

    I usually lose up to 1.5mm of surface in the thicknesser after cutting, add 1.omm for the blade and so I would estimate that a 13mm thick piece is likely to render 2 X 4.5 to 5mm piece after the saw marks are planed off.

    Ben, you will notice that the resawn boards will cup ... virtually guaranteed to .... this is because the tensions are released and the board takes up, or gives off, moisture ... don't panic ... let is sit in the shed for a few days ... and if it has not returned to shape by then ... then panic.

    Hope your lunch went well ..

    Regards

    Rob

  12. #11
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    Thanks Rob. I am nervous about this resawing business, but excited at the same time.
    Lunch was great and got the mini wax wipe on poly whilst I was out.
    Cheers
    Ben

  13. #12
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    Oh, and I forgot o say "that is a nice blade"... keep it for crosscuts. If you use it for rips it will heat up and burn the wood .. and damage the blade.

    Regards

    Rob

  14. #13
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    I have started applying the mini wax wipe on poly to the inside of my box and the shelves. Starting to look good!

    image.jpg

    image.jpg

  15. #14
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    Default

    Looking good ...multiple thin applications does it best

    The case looks like it worked out well too

    Regards

    Rob

  16. #15
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    Final internal coats of mini wax wipe on poly done. I kept it light and sanded with 800 in between coats. I also masked off where the shelves are glued.

    image.jpg

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