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25th June 2017, 01:13 PM #31
As usual information overload from the web.
Between appreciated advice and Boroondara fencing laws/guidelines website 20 step questionnaire and second hand memory from neighbours about what the council rep said about their permit.
Just enough to get me into trouble if I try to quote or sound like I know what I'm talking about. LOL
I can hear the motorised auger(?) now sounding like a motorbike on a dirt track.
auger. Stop. Dig. bang. auger. stop dig bang lol
Wish I could see what's he doing.
shoulda been away like the neighbours.Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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25th June 2017, 04:06 PM #32SENIOR MEMBER
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I'm glad it sounds like it's being fixed, both properly and to your satisfaction with minimal inconvenience (though a lot of pots and chimes)
"All the gear and no idea"
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25th June 2017, 04:29 PM #33
IMG_0411.jpg IMG_0380.jpg IMG_0383.jpg IMG_0410.jpg IMG_0413.jpg IMG_0382.jpg IMG_0412.jpg
Yep.
6.5 hours later.
And he's still out there.
Certainly getting value for money
Had a quick look at the post holes.
Freakin' deep!
Pick of the car is to prove to the fence guy I can fit a 2x 3.6m plinth with just a bit hanging out the back.Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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25th June 2017, 04:44 PM #34
Pictures man! Pictures!
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25th June 2017, 05:00 PM #35
LOL
Just what I was thinking.
Taking longer than usual to upload.
Don't know why.
Some days I can upload the exact pics in the exact order.
Others days like today its a nightmare.Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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25th June 2017, 05:17 PM #36
Is that it!???
I was expecting landslides, gaping chasms riven apart by earthquakes or some sort of cliff-like ravine!!!
Its all rather anti-climactic
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25th June 2017, 05:21 PM #37
IMG_0417.jpg IMG_0415.jpg IMG_0416.jpg
LOL
Too much Hollywood dude!
No headliner stars or fantasy story lines or 500 million dollar budgets here.
Just real life.
If it would make you feel better I can always lie and post the we uncovered the bones of Jimmy Hoffa right next to time traveling alien technology.
LOL
The auger was huge.
The work area was really small.
He was buggered.
Another hour.
Owners will sort out the 2x4 support removals.
I'll sort out the plinth installation.
Those notches were tight.
Nice to see a professional at work delivering professional work.Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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26th June 2017, 02:46 PM #38
Well, my good lady wife does NOT want to pursue the retaining wall from their side.
She wants me to hide it from view on our side.
Grrrrrr.
The fence repair guy mentioned building planter shelfs off the ground.
Which got her thinking.
I'm hoping some one might have a suggestion on how I could sort it out myself.
First the retention wall from our side.
I'm pretty sure the plinth would NOT be suitable.
certainly not at $6.25 per 3.6lm for the 25 x 150 size
I was reading about H5? TP buried in the ground.
Some say it will last 10 years.
Others say 1 year depending on how close to the beach you live.
blast as an after thought just now.
Why don't I match their depth by digging out the soil on our side and build a retaining wall against our garden bed brickwork?Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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26th June 2017, 03:41 PM #39
Barry,
one should always TRY to be guided by our good lady wives, but sometimes ...
If you build the required retaining wall on your side of the boundary, the wall and any associated drainage becomes your problem and perhaps more importantly your cost.
You will need to keep the clearances to the boundary that your neighbour was supposed to keep -- that is unless you submit a building or development application and get Council approval to build on the boundary. Don't know about you, but giving good money to Council and waiting 6 months for possible approval, is, for me, a very poor use of money that could be spent in the or garden or on a holiday. You don't get a refund if Council says NO.
To fix from your side would involve excavating to the same level as next door has excavated. The fence is now well into the sky, so you would need to underpin the whole fence with some sort of structure. Assuming you don't want to seek Council approval, your retaining wall would be a minimum of about 500 mm back from the boundary, you would need to arrange drainage between the wall and the fence line, I could go on, but by now you should have the general idea.
and your tree would likely have to come out.
In my humble opinion -- just don't go there.
Get the neighbours to fix the level difference on their side of the boundary.regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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26th June 2017, 06:59 PM #40
Hi Ian,
Thanks for the continued support.
Much appreciated.
DuWhaaaaaat! even more money to the council? you mean their advice is not free?
And wait 6 months. ForGetAboutIIIIt!
My good lady would cut me down before she let me cut the tree down.
She's eyeing me up and down now calculating the number of chops it would take.
LOL
I hinted to the neighbour if he had a family friend who was a structural/landscape engineer to ask them to have a quick squint.
I'd be happy to have a short chat with him on the down low and take his advice.
The lady is taking full advantage and has given the OK to spend THE (not OUR) money on the retaining wall and some split level pot plant shelves of our favourite hardwood spotted gum along the 10 meters against the fence.
$200 - $300 ish.
43cm from that brick rise to the fence.
for the retaining wall
Not sure what we could do about more drainage.
As its maybe 3 inches between the rain warter gutter on the car port roof and the fence.
And its all brickwork
+ another 11cm for the brick width.
for the pot plant shelves.Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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26th June 2017, 07:52 PM #41
Barry, all I can add is DON'T MAKE THE RETAINING WALL YOUR PROBLEM.
Politely ask the neighbours when the retaining structure will be completed so that you can back fill your side of the fence.
Depending on the response, you may wish to get Council involved relatively quickly.regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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26th June 2017, 08:05 PM #42
Acknowledged.
Thanks again.Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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11th July 2017, 10:47 AM #43
http://www.hyne.com.au/documents/Fea...alls_final.pdf
That PDF is for Queensland (2014) and NOT Victoria.
https://www.boroondara.vic.gov.au/ab...retaining-wall
Got the measuring tape out.
All less than 400mm difference in soil levels.
Excluding about 600mm to the tree which is filled with roots.
So can't ask/won't be asking the neighbours to build a retaining wall.
if we want to or not to plant on our side:
We'll need to keep our soil from getting washed away from our side.
The lady has given the go ahead on me figuring out what to do.
The plan from her is to keep me busy (and out of her hair).
So won't be paying someone else to do it.Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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11th July 2017, 11:33 AM #44
Barry,
your neighbours have EXCAVATED their property to the extent that the soil on your side of the common boundary (and part of your garage slab?) is no longer properly supported. I believe the term is "removed the existing natural support" to the soil on your side of the fence.
Now the depth of excavation may not be as deep as meets your council's definition of a retaining wall, but you are under no OBLIGATION to prevent soil and other material washing into your neighbour's yard because it is their actions which are "responsible".
Now I understand that you want to be a good co-operative neighbour, so I encourage you to work with your neighbour to find a solution that stops your soil washing into their property. Not knowing relative costs, the solutions that come to mind for the low height you have quoted are:
1. treated pine fence palings supported by the fence posts and intermediate star pickets.
2. H5 treated pine 4x2s supported by the fence posts and intermediate star pickets.
3. one or two rows of besser blocks filled with soil. If you used two rows they would just be stacked on each other.
4. a brick wall around 5 courses high.
all of which could be installed on the boundary, and in the case of 1 and 2 would look pretty ordinary on the neighbour's side.
I think you need to keep in mind that a future owner of the neighbouring property might insist on you removing the tree your good lady so admires because it's roots are exposed on their side of the boundary.
This is something you need to resolve now in a way that DOES NOT involve you accepting that future problems with the tree or its roots are your "responsibility".regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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11th July 2017, 05:11 PM #45
Just spent the week waxing the kitchen cupboards doors.
about 20 to 30 hours cleaning the build up out of the corners.
Nice and shinny now.
LOL What a waste of miserable time. Felt like I was being tortured. LOL
So glad to have finished yesterday morning and spent the rest of the day planning the retaining wall.
I'm just happy to out of the kitchen onto something else.
opted for
200 x 50 H4 treated pine sleepers in 2mtr lengths.
(expecting occasional watering of pot plants run off.
There is a 30 cm/1ft gap between the fence and the rain water guttering
the fence is taller than the rain water guttering by 1ft to 2 ft
so expect very little water exposure
have taken the precaution of purchasing bondall water based bitumen waterproofing membrane for the treated pine sleepers)
have gone with whites outdoor 450 x 50mm Retain-iT Joint Post
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-o...-post_p1100440
250 in the ground and 200 for the sleepers
planning on covering the steel posts with the bitumen as well unless otherwise advised.
Stupid expensive I know.
Still juggling whether to just pond them into the hard clay and rely upon the 900mm deep posts from the fence repair for support.
Some of the plinth has been eaten away
I've already purchased the plinth replacement timber for ~$12.
I'll bitumen one side to match the black of the plinth and fence on their side.
No big deal.
$60 for 4lt of the bitumen. 1.4m2 per lt. frak!
The bondall rep told me to mix 1 part bitumen and 1 part water to use and an undercoat.
And then apply two more coats of the bitumen.
A lot of work. But still better than waxing kitchen cupboards.
I swear I remember an antique repair place quoting $3000 to clean the cupboard doors.
It might have been $1000 and I tell my lady it $3000 to get 3 times the credit. LOL
AND thats with me bringing them the doors. LOL
Not supposed to apply the bitumen < 10° nor above 80% humidity.
Rep said you can but the drying and curing times will be much slower.
Had a fair go a digging but the hands started cramping so taking the rest of the day to plan.Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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