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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    netherlands
    Posts
    1

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Lee
    Rod -

    If you have repeatable geometry - you ultimately spend less time on any abrasive medium - making it last longer... an often overlooked component of sharpening.

    I use a belt sander as well (i have a 1 x 42, and a 1 x 30 (on a Veritas Mk I power sharpener)) - and belt wear has not been an issue yet...

    Any shaping work I do on a wheel though.

    Cheers -

    Rob
    Rob,
    MK1 isn't for sale anymore? I have the LV/Viel Beltsandergrinder can I use it the same way or is it as Leonard Lee is showing on the DVD best for knifesharpening.
    I am thinking about customizing this beltsandergrinder; maybe some ideas? I have the idea the wheel has already been discovered ;-)

    kees

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Ireland
    Posts
    110

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    Derek, or any of the guys that have done this, I just have a few points you could maybe set me straight on.

    I think the drawer pull you used was about 3/4" in diameter - does it need to be this thick? The ones for sale in a shop near me are only 3/8" to 1/2" in diameter for that width.

    Does the drawer pull have to be the full 9" or 10" wide if you're just using a 4" belt sander?

    Derek, could you give me the dimensions of the aluminium blocks you used as the side supports? I think they were 28mm in height but how wide and long are they, and does it matter? Also, with the 6" sander was the drawer pull of a width that allowed you to just butt the support blocks right unto the sides of the platen or did you need spacers? If I go for a 4" sander I could see myself having to still use wooden spacer blocks between the sides of the sander and the aluminium blocks unless I go for a shorter handle.

    When you turn the bolt on the underside that runs through the 8mm tapped hole does it not just run through the thread in the drawer pull without actually raising it. I'm sure it does work but could you maybe expand further on this point, I'm having a rather slow moment!

    Is cast iron difficult to drill through or is it fairly soft? I don't want to get a cast iron combo and then find I'm not able to put the holes in it.

    Finally, I don't have a drill press or any of the tools to make up the two aluminium blocks but do know this guy that might be able to. He's a semi retired old guy that does auto repairs and stuff and he has a drill press and might be able to manage to machine these for me. Failing that I guess I'm stuck with the wooden version, if I can even manage to do that accurately. Derek, you don't fancy wipping up two aluminium supports and shipping them to Ireland?

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,803

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    Hi Woden

    Firstly, there are no fixed rules - everything is just a guideline. Feel free to modify as you will.

    The drawer pull is about 3/8" thick. Use whatever you wish.

    There is no specific length. Use whatever you wish.

    Ditto the aluminium blocks - dimension these to fit your machine. The important part is the fitting for the drawer pull/tool rest.

    When you turn the bolt on the underside that runs through the 8mm tapped hole does it not just run through the thread in the drawer pull without actually raising it. I'm sure it does work but could you maybe expand further on this point, I'm having a rather slow moment!

    You need to drill from each side - drill the top for the drawer pull/tool rest, so this is the diameter of the upright. Only go about 1/2 way through the block. Now drill from the underside, wide enough to tap a bolt. This bolt is the depth gauge. Add a nut (or 2) to serve as lock nuts.

    All this is in the post(s).

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

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