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Thread: Box joint jig

  1. #1
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    Default Box joint jig

    I decided to try some box joints and after considering which jig to use I opted to modify a fully adjustable finger joint jig published by Woodsmith/Shop Notes. The Woodsmith jig is intended to be used with a dado blade or router table and is micro adjustable for a wide range of finger thicknesses up to about 1".

    [IMG]s.ecrater.com/stores/57531/4991a618365c6_57531b.jpg[/IMG]

    I don't have a dado blade so I built a backing sled the lets me slide the finger joint jig across the blade in multiple passes to cut the width of the finger.

    jig1.jpgjig2.jpg

    I also knocked up an ancillary jig to help locate the stops for the required finger thickness. This is simply a flush cut block that the finger thickness can be rested against to allow a saw kerf thickness to be shaved off. This shaved piece can then be used to set the stop on the sled as well as help locating the legs of the finger spacers.
    jig3.jpgjig4.jpg

    With minimal trial and error I was able to construct my first finger jointed box.
    test1.jpg

    The only real problem I had in use was finding the mending brackets used as the spacer legs being a bit too soft and bending when the leading one catches on anything.

    Also glue up was a bit of a pain, but that's unrelated to the jig I suppose.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
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    Default

    Looks good Fuzzie. Great job

    I made Ed Stiles jig. experimenting now with various options. You are right, the glue up is a pain

    My biggest problem is getting the spacing just right for the fingers and that is obviously because it is a screw advance jig and everything must be an exact multiple of 1/16th. Turns out my blade was the problem. Good quality 1/8th but even after getting it flat top ground it was .129 inches not 0.125. Solved that now though by carefully taking off some kerf by dragging the blade over a diamond plate. Now kerf is 0.126 which works well, just leaving space for gluing up.

    Lots of tweaking needed on these jigs

  4. #3
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    Default

    Thanks Bob. I chose to build this jig because it seemed fairly simple and I had suitable sized scraps on hand, mainly brushbox. Combining it with the auxiliary jig to thickness a spacer piece makes the setup quite quick and usable with any size blade or thickness board. I only intend to use it for utility boxes so I haven't invested in any special blade and the bottom of the slots might look a bit rough on close inspection. It does become a bit tedious making the multiple passes required to cut each slot. Upside is, if I ever make a router table the jig can also serve dual service and be used with a router to cut flat bottom slots.

    I would be very happy though to stumble across some suitable sized cast iron fingers that could be used to replace the soft steel mending brackets.

  5. #4
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    Default

    It's so humid here at the moment, the first coat of finish on the table I'm building hadn't dried enough overnight to sand back for a final coat, so not having anything better to do I decided to give the jig a tryout on some scraps leftover from the table build.

    First problems I had are all to do with humidity. It's been 80-100% humidity here for the last week or so. The runner for the spacer jig was binding in the mitre slots and the other bits weren't really sliding nicely. I shaved the runner to get it moving and probably should have waxed everything else for ease of use, but I didn't.

    For the exercise the finger width was to be the same as the thickness of the material. Here the material thickness is being shaved for use in setting the main jig. I couldn't see any way to use the blade guard doing this, but kept fingers as far as possible out of the way with a long push stick.
    a1.jpg a2.jpg

    The auxiliary single blade sled alongside the standard woodsmith jig.
    a3.jpg a4.jpg

    With the Woodsmith jig straddling the auxiliary jig and using the spacer to set the left/right stops and the finger spacings.
    a5.jpg a6.jpg

    Next set the blade spacing to the fingers with the jig pushed fully to the left
    a7.jpg

    First pass on test pieces. Seemed to be an ok setup. Bottom of notches rough though and needed cleaning to fit better.
    a8.jpg a9.jpg

    I attempted to gang up two sides to notch at once. This was actually a bit flaky since it was hard to hold every thing in place securely and keep it square. Also sliding the sled left and right was a bit rough and I think the soft metal fingers flexed a bit while being straddled.
    aa.jpg

    End result.... not very good. I lost track of which side I had started on and cut the first slot on the next set of sides with the wrong offset.
    ab.jpg

    Not foolproof and definitely in need of some sort of additional fence to help keep things aligned while moving the sled back and forwards over the blade. A deeper leading ledge would also be beneficial to support the thickness of two sides being notched at once.

  6. #5
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    Default

    As they say, two steps forward.....

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