Thread: Cross cutting a bevel on a fixed blade TS

A sled will do it but if you have a normal circular saw it might be easier and faster to use it with a guide

Ok, here is my attampt at a drawing - dont laugh . Well you can if you like.

The roundish thing is the blade, the rest is sort of labelled. Don't know if that helps! Its the best I could do.

Originally Posted by echnidna

A sled will do it but if you have a normal circular saw it might be easier and faster to use it with a guide

Thanks for the suggestion.

I do have a circular saw and an old Mk3 Triton (burried under loads of stuff), so I could X cut with the circular saw tipped over but don't feel I'd get it accurate enough - I find X-cutting on the Triton difficult as I can't see what I'm doing easily. I'd like to make a jig of some sort that I can use for most angles and get the precision my TS offers over my circular saw. Still, the Triton is a possibility.

How about one of these.

http://www.triton.com.au/accessories...1#accessory_17

The bevel ripping guide is alright for narrow(ish) pieces, say under 500mm else it's too damned awkward trying to keep things balanced. Similarly, if you're cutting the bevel on the short end of a board, anything under 150mm can cause difficulties (especially on steeper angles) as it's unsupported by the guide where it "wraps around" the blade. It does a nice job of the intermediate cuts though, and I wouldn't be without mine.

Unfortunately, most of my bevels are cut at those two extremes, either large panels or narrow boards, so I built an adjustable table for my cross-cut sled that's along very similar lines to what Richard describes.

'Twas a right PITA trying to come up with a height adjuster that wouldn't interfere with the work laying on top... in the end I decided stuff it and just pack it to height with offcuts. (That's about standard quality for one of my jigs. ) Also, you can't fit a rail to the bottom board to slide along the mitre guide because the jig needs to be positioned closer towards the blade as the bevel angle increases because of the hinge... build one and you'll see soon what I mean.

So I just set it mine up on top of my ordinary cross-cut sled, which is why I call it an adjustable table rather than a sled in it's own right, then tweak it until all the angles are right and clamp/screw it down in place on the sled. Which method I use to secure it depends on my mood that day and whether the sled is looking ratty and due for replacement. One of the benefits of not building beautiful jigs from furniture-grade Mahogany with polished brass fittings is that it doesn't matter if they get broke.

Anywho, it all works well for me.

Back in the days of overhead line shafts driving multiple tools, tilting tables were quite common. I restored a Tomlee model 31 (1950s, long after the demise of overhead shafting, but still made that way). Supporting the work piece can be somewhat dodgy, with the fence on the downhill side of the blade. I'd suggest a few improvements on your tilting sled: A more positive angle setting, such as a sector like on a mitre gage, or a turnbuckle if there's enough room; If the workpiece extends beyond the upper edge of the tilted sled, attach a block on its underside to ride on the edge of the sled; Or, if not, attach a toggle clamp (e.g. Destayco) on the upper surface of the tilted sled to hold the workpiece in position. For a single angle setting with the wedge, ensure that all parts are securely attached to one another.

Joe

Thanks everyone.

The bevel ripping guide is for the later model Triton I think and is quite pricey. Since I use my newer cast iron machine for most projects these days I'd like to make something for that.

Skews jig sound like the approach. Instead of packing with off-cuts, I might try cutting large accurate wedges that can be screwed to top and bottom boards, to give a positive angle. No mahogany or brass to be seen in my shed - well apart from the old bed heads I scrounge and use for making clocks etc.

Originally Posted by RichardL

Thanks everyone.

The bevel ripping guide is for the later model Triton I think and is quite pricey. Since I use my newer cast iron machine for most projects these days I'd like to make something for that.

Skews jig sound like the approach. Instead of packing with off-cuts, I might try cutting large accurate wedges that can be screwed to top and bottom boards, to give a positive angle. No mahogany or brass to be seen in my shed - well apart from the old bed heads I scrounge and use for making clocks etc.

Richard

If you have a look at the link it does say there is an adaptor kit for the MK 3 but probably the chances of getting one from Triton these days would be a bit remote. I have a bevel ripping guide but have only used it once in the four years that I have had it.

There is probably a few sitting around in sheds that are never being used.

Originally Posted by Barry_White

Richard

If you have a look at the link it does say there is an adaptor kit for the MK 3 but probably the chances of getting one from Triton these days would be a bit remote.

When I got mine all you had to do was return the arms for the WC2000 set up that came with it to the Triton factory and they would exchange it for the adaptor kit. There was a small fixed fee for postage, if applicable.

So before buying one make sure from Triton that they still have these adaptors for Triton no longer supports MK3 and as parts are sold out they are no longer stocked.


Peter.