Fettling a featherboard (a)

[zenwood]

Have been refining this featherboard over the past few weeks. I think it's close to a final configuration.

1. The complete jig. The angle of the feather ends not very acute, meaning that any force exterted on the featherboard is trasmitted almost at 90° to the mitre slot that holds it, rather than tending to push the featherboard back along the slot (hope this makes sense).
2. The main knob is a shaped piece of pine with a groove underneath into which a wingnut has been glued with araldite. A piece of threaded rod cut to the right length is araldited into the wingnut. A spring washer and a couple of spreader washers seem to work well.
3. On the underside of the actuar 'feather' board I glued two strips of sandpaper (about 120 grit, from memory). The sandpaper helps prevent the board from pivoting around the single tightening bolt.
4. Near the front end of the mitre slot runner is a slot holding a countersunk bolt and a wingnut. When this wingnut is tightened, the countersunk bolt head tends to expand the runner against the sides of the mitre slot, thus locking the whole jig in place. It is surprising how well this mechanism works.
5. Detail of the locking arrangement.

[dai sensei]

Nice featherboard Zenwood, but why not use 2 tightening bolts? See pic of one from Timbercon to give you an idea.

Cheers

[zenwood]

That would work too. Might do something like that for the vertical featherboard I need to make, since 'short and fat' would probably be better than 'long and thin'.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Eureka!! I think...

With the two bolts like the Timbecon f/b but a "bridge" with a cut-off nail or three on the underside instead of the middle section (the bit with the gauge) I think that'd solve my problem with the T-rail being too close to the blade for more conventional f/b's.

I'm thinking one could cut a sacrifical featherboard, slide it into position under the "bridge" and then tightening the bolts would hold everything in position. So in case of feather-failure (I have serious outbreaks...) all I'd have to do is quickly cut feathers into another board on the TS, without needing to worry about drilll/slotting it for mounting. And no worries about leaving enough uncut material to prevent the f/b cracking along the grain.

Can anyone see any obvious flaws with this idea?

[zenwood]

...With the two bolts...t a "bridge" with a cut-off nail or three on the underside instead of the middle section... cut a sacrifical featherboard, slide it into position under the "bridge" and then tightening the bolts would hold everything in position.

Sounds great! . Didn't understand a word, but it sounds great

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Sounds great! . Didn't understand a word, but it sounds great

Nice to see I'm maintaining my standards.

'Eres another go... cut the centre section of the timbecon f/board, leaving the two ends (complete with bolt assemblies) intact.

Trim the feathers off the centre section, move the two end assemblies an inch or so closer together and glue the centre section on top of the ends to form a bridge. Thus a new f/b could be inseted underneath, held in place when the kbolts are tightened.

That make any more sense?

Doing the above wouldn't result in anything usable, but a few simple modifications made to the basic design would. I think. Gotta make one and try my photo skills, methinks. When I can find the time.

[zenwood]

Thus a new f/b could be inseted underneath...

Aaahh! Now it clicks. Sounds cool. Definitely thought-worthy. Hmm...