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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2005
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    Eden Hills, South Australia
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    Default Fettling a featherboard (c)

    1. The device in use. The featherboard holds the workpiece firmly against the fence, and prevents it from being pushed backwards towards me.
    2. After some repeated tightenings, the mitre locking screw started spinning when I wanted to tighten it. I filed a couple of flats on the sides to help it bite. So far so good with this idea.
    3. Flats on both sides of the countersink head.

    Soon I will replace the wingut that tightens this bolt with a proper knob, courtesy of Ian007.

    Now: how do I make a featherboard to hold the workpiece down firmly against the table?
    Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
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    Default

    same sorta thing.
    Attach it to your fence, you might need a bracket.
    Put it behind the blade
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    kyogle N.S.W
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    4,844

    Default

    Looks fine.

    Quote Originally Posted by zenwood
    [list=1]
    Now: how do I make a featherboard to hold the workpiece down firmly against the table?
    Have a similar type featherboard that clamps off the fence, or.....

    if you don't mind drilling a small hole or two into the table top, you can easily tap a hole to take a common thread bolt. Like 1/4", 3/16". Most wouldn' I suppose, but it really won't affect the workings of your table saw.

    With that threaded hole you can simply clamp down a feather board near the blade.

    ??? maybe, maybe not. might help.

  5. #4
    Join Date
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by echnidna
    same sorta thing.
    Attach it to your fence, you might need a bracket.
    Put it behind the blade
    Got any pics? My fence has a t-track in its side that I'd like to use, but there doesn't seem to be enough room to put in a featherboard like this one.

    Why behind the blade?
    Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Oberon, NSW
    Age
    63
    Posts
    13,360

    Default

    Nice job, but it won't find a home in my workshop.

    I tend to consider featherboards as "sacrificial," not because I send 'em through the saw but because I break so many feathers. Dunno if it's poor technique on my behalf or, more likely IMHO, the cheap materials used to make 'em.

    Tried making something along the lines of yours, but with the feathers as a "bolt-on" at the end of an assy. Didn't work... not enough room, so either the feathers were too short or you could only rip 1/2" material. [sigh] Maybe I ought to borrow a TIG and move the mitre channel over a few inches?
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    11,464

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by zenwood
    Got any pics? My fence has a t-track in its side that I'd like to use, but there doesn't seem to be enough room to put in a featherboard like this one.

    Why behind the blade?
    Its easy to start feeding timber into the saw so you dont need one at front. Behind the blade works well and prevents liftup etc
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

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