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Thread: Ironwoods forge for blademaking.
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4th April 2023, 09:03 PM #1
Ironwoods forge for blademaking.
I have posted this thread here rather than the metalworking forum, because I’ll be using for making plane blades, probably will turn out a few knives as well.
I have used a phone to take these pics, first time for me to do this, I usually use my DSLR Nikon. I am having trouble learning my new photo software so this is it for now.
IanW got me keen to make a blade for a mitre plane that I want to make. This project has gotten a lot bigger than I anticipated at the start. Hopefully it will be worth the journey I have taken.
I have used a 9kg gas bottle, and a forge kit from Gameco, which included the kaowool, ridgidizer, and refractory cement and a fire brick for the front door , I bought an extra fire brick for the back door as well.
I built the LPG burner, out of some 1” gal pipe and some fittings , still some fine tuning to do, but it seems to work really well on my initial test run runs, I have gone to a 1.6mm jet after starting out with a 1mm. My first try was a 3/4” burner, but from what I have researched, a 1” will be a lot better for this sized forge.
7A82E542-B03C-40E9-9DE2-621060F8967C.jpg
8D65707F-8001-438B-8552-AB3F17B8A735.jpg
This is will be all for a while now, as I have other commitments to take care of.
A break will give the cement and rigidizer a chance to cure properly.
I still have to work out where I will drill in to install the thermocouple for the temperature meter.
I have a couple of meter lengths of 1084 flat bar that I will use for my first lot of blades, apparently it is a good steel to start off with.Brad.
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4th April 2023, 09:13 PM #2
Good setup.
I have made a very similar forge with the same bits and pieces (everything but the stand and gas bottle from Gameco).
Have made a few good knives and chisels so far and lots of blacksmith tongs and odds and ends.
Good, fun forge and I think a really great woodwork toolmaking resource.
An internal forge thermometer is essential for getting the right temp for hardening your blades.
V
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4th April 2023, 09:31 PM #3
I have watched a few videos by Corin from Gameco on running a forge of this type, the thermocouple looks to be a key part to getting the blade to the right temp, otherwise it’s going by eye, or using a magnet.
I bought one of their temp meters, I think it will be money well spent.
Any advise on where to position the thermocouple would be handy.Brad.
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4th April 2023, 09:37 PM #4
Mine is located on the burner side but about 40mm from the forge floor. I can't remember exactly why I chose that spot but it makes sense to place it out of direct touch of the burner flame.
I'd take a photo but my forge workshop is all packed away due to renovations.
V
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4th April 2023, 09:43 PM #5
OK, thanks for that, I have read that you need to position it out of the direct flame.
I will do some more research over the next few days as time permits.Brad.
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4th April 2023, 09:45 PM #6
Found some pics of my forge taken last year:
IMG-20220416-WA0008.jpg
IMG-20220416-WA0009.jpg
IMG-20220416-WA0010.jpg
Dagger pre-grinding from an old broken Wiltshire file piece:
IMG-20220416-WA0011.jpg
V
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4th April 2023, 10:25 PM #7
Brad
Even in a relatively small vessel, such as your converted gas bottle, there will be some temperature variation. You are trying to measure forge temperature rather than flame temperature so i think you are on the right track placing the TC behind the burner. In fact, as dubrosa has done. As your steel objects will be towards the floor of the forge, that seems to be a good place to measure as the top of the forge will be noticeably hotter.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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6th April 2023, 03:12 PM #8
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15th April 2023, 08:30 AM #9
I had a bit of spare time yesterday arvo, so I drilled a hole for the thermocouple. I put it on the same side as the burner, and about 30mm up from the floor.
I did a few burn-in runs, successively getting a bit hotter with each run.
On the 5th run, I took it up to 850*C, I put a length of 1/2” rebar in there and got it glowing red on the end, so it does work.
I got 4 litres of cheap Canola oil at the shop, so I’m about ready to give it a real try.
I still have to get some potbelly stove paint and give the outside a lick. And I want to weld another piece of flatbar to extend the floor out further from the front door, so that the tongs will balance there better. I could just use a piece of rebar like I saw in one of the videos, but I have a piece of flatbar the right size, so I’ll use that.Brad.
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15th April 2023, 09:43 AM #10
Certainly sounds like your forge is working Brad
As a scrounger I've found old files and car springs make the best high carbon blanks for edged tools/weapons.
In the case of files I wouldn't bother keeping the tang of an old file however. I've found they often have micro-fractures from use and abuse and don't withstand much reworking. Now I just cut them off and forge my own.
The car springs I've used have been unused and are fabulous for larger blades.
If quenching in vegetable oil it's best to warm it prior with a piece of cherry red scrap about 10 minutes before quenching your workpiece for hardening. Just a 10 second dip.
V
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15th April 2023, 05:38 PM #11
I know I'm late to the party but I was away out of internet range over Easter.
I believe Dubrosa is spot-on with the placement of the thermocouple, mine is in the same place.
Welcome to the club of woodworkers who make their own blades. I have found it a very rewarding addition to my workshop and skill set.I got sick of sitting around doing nothing - so I took up meditation.
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18th April 2023, 11:07 PM #12
Not much progress to report on, I’m afraid. But I did get the piece of flatbar welded onto the front of the forge. And I got a can of black stove paint. Hopefully there will be a bit more action soon, so I can get my first blade heat treated.
Brad.
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