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Thread: M&T jig

  1. #1
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    Default M&T jig

    ok.. so i took some inspiration from a number of sources (namely rocker and the wonderful Leigh FMT jig) and decided to make my own mortise and tenon jig.

    It isnt quite finished yet, but it will be very soon. however, it is in a workable state..well enough for me to try it out at least. I need to sort out a better way of holding the pieces in place.. But what i've got will do for now..

    From what i can see the main difference between mine and Rockers is the fact that
    1) rockers jig only has three fences for the router to run on.. Mine has four so the base of the router is "fully enclosed"
    2) I have 4 fences as well as four auxilary fences. You can see the little bits of wood that are sitting on teh inside of the main fences.

    Basically the little bits of wood are the same width as the cutter. In this case 1/2 inch. so.. with the auxilary fences in place you cut the mortise.. remove the auxilary fences and you cut the tenon.

    Obviously you need to have some way of lining the two up on the jig before you cut and i have a scribe line there for reference but i'm working on something a little better than that.

    Also, the tenon is cut square so you need to round them over with a chisel... But you can see that the fit is pretty good.

    Next i just have to fit a "sight" to it and a couple of fences and clamps on the mounting surface.

    I hope you like

    Cheers

    Joe

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  3. #2
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    Default

    and the final three pics..

    Forgive the blurry last one..

    i know the wood you see is pretty dinged up, but i wasnt going for fine joinery on the test run... its just structural pine.

    i was just stoked that you could hear a little pop when you pul the two pieces apart...

    Cheers

    Joe

  4. #3
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    Great job.. looks like a lot of thought and effort went into it. I'm glad it's working for you.. now you get to think of all the mods and finessing you can do to it. Have fun

  5. #4
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    Instead of rounding the corner with the chisel, maybe some 1/4 circle blocks in the corner. By my calcualtions the corners would have a radius of 1/2 the router base + the width of the bit.

    i.e. a 6" base and 1/2" bit = 3 1/2"

    So cut your mortise then remove your little blocks and add the round corners in each corner.
    Last edited by bpj1968; 3rd September 2007 at 02:50 PM. Reason: recalculation

  6. #5
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    Thats true Brian...

    Once i get the clamping sorted out i'll have to give it a go. I want to make some 1/4" auxilary fences as well as i also have a 1/4" spiral bit.

    I'll let you know how it goes when i get round to it...

    Cheers

    joe

  7. #6
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    Good stuff Joe - looking forward to seeing it in person.
    "Clear, Ease Springs"
    www.Stu's Shed.com


  8. #7
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    Brian, strangely enough the corner blocks don't quite work like that.

    Main problem being the transition from fence to block being both smooth and durable.

    Takes some fiddling, but it can be done to about 90% without going waaay too far.


    How do I know this you may ask?

    Because I already made one. Here it is.


    I didn't elaborate at the time since I was too busy using the thing, and since I did all the joints it's collected dust.


    I'll wrestle it back out again and give it another going over sooner or later, and sort out some of the small bugs it has. I did some double MTs with it, and they were off by a few mm here and there and some other slight hiccuperry.


    Joe, I wish I'd made mine as simple as yours first time out.

  9. #8
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    hey schtoo... I didnt see your on the forums.. It looks like we had the same basic idea.

    Your clamping mechanism is something that i might (read will) use as i stil havent sorted that out yet.. the quick grip clamps arent good enough i dont think...

    anyway..i shopuld be working rather than looking at these forums so i'll leave it there for now.

    see ya

    joe

  10. #9
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    The clamps are just cheap plastic things made to go into a workmate. Drill some 3/4" holes and they poke through. I found I needed at least two to hold things in place with no slippage.

    The stops underneath are the real life savers though. Set them up, and everything turns out the same every time, and changing workpieces becomes a 5 second operation rather than a 1 minute chore. Doesn't sound like much, but if you are punching out over 100 joints on a piece, there is plenty of time saved.

  11. #10
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    Joe, you can get those clamps at Bunnings (I work there ).

    I bought some a while back, real useful they are, sitting in drawer somewhere...


    Cheers..................Sean


    The beatings will continue until morale improves.

  12. #11
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    thanks Scooter. I thought i saw them at my local bunnings (hoppers crossing) a while ago, but when i was making the jig i went looking and couldnt see anything.. I might have to go to a different store.

    I'm heading to geelong tomorrow so i'll drop by if i have the time.

    Cheers

    Joe

  13. #12
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    JOe, would be interested if you find those clamps and how much they are

  14. #13
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    Brian,

    I was in Bunnings Geelong today and no luck unfortunately..

    I'f i do find them i'll let you know.

    Cheers

    Joe

  15. #14
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    That's great FTJE,

    Coulda saved m'self the cost of a Leigh FMT.
    With regard to the clamps for holding the tenon at below the cutting face centre, could you use the Lee Valley Hold downs. They really hold well, but are pretty long.

    Regards,

    Rob

  16. #15
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    thanks Rob,

    i envy you your Leigh FMT thats for sure... though if you want to swap i certainly wont complain (heehee)

    as for the clamps, yes, i could use the lee valley (veritas) ones.. but id hazard a guess and say the carba tec bench hold dows would do nicely.. added to that is the fact that they are $80 cheaper...

    although.. all of that veritas stuff if is pretty tempting

    anyway, one can always dream

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