Thread: Router table quick sled

Hi niki,

your post is very timely for me. I have been trying to find some information on something like you have done. I am inexperienced but I was thinking of:

* 3mm mdf.
Is there a difference between using mdf and ply?

* a fence like you with a clamps on top.

* Putting some handles on top of the ply/mdf for control.

I was also thinking of using it by running the sled against the router table fence. I didn't want to put a track in my table and I had this idea that I would have more control than the method you outlined. Do you or anyone else have have an opinion on the pros and cons of my method?

Brian

Good one Niki.

Thank you Brian

I think that 3mm MDF will be fine as long as it's flat.

Putting handles will be even better for control .

One thing that I would not do with 3 mm plywood or MDF (in contrary to what I did) is, to use the hold-down clamp. I discovered today that when you tight it, it causes the plywood to bent down and you change all the bit height setting so, it's better to clamp the work to the fence with grip clamps (two) or C (G?) clamps that can be used also as handles.

I think that running the sled against the router table fence is not a good idea,

First, how much can you move your fence from the bit. I think that you will not be able to tenon long boards

Second, you shall have to feed at the opposite direction [normally, the feeding is from right to left so the cutter "bites" into the wood (exactly like on the table saw, you don't start to cut from behind the blade and pull toward the front side of the blade)].

Third, when the sled is running on the edge of the router table (as in the pics), if, for some reason your hands moves the sled out of the table edge, nothing will happen to the work except that the cut line will not be straight but, it can be corrected with a second pass. when you run the sled against the table fence, if you move your sled, the bit will cut into the workpiece and the sled and no correction is possible BUT...

...BUT, the biggest problem with a sled running between the fence and the bit is that you can get a good Kickback.
Yes, I'm running boards between the fence (actually straight edge) and the bit but for one purpose only, jointing, but first, I'm using two iron bars (kind of feather boards) that does not let the board to move from a straight line and the first is sharpen like a chisel to stop any push back, second, I'm cutting only 0.1 (1/10) of Millimeter at every pass and, third, I'm cutting along the grain and never, never across the grain. I would not dare in my life to make such an operation cutting across the grain.

When you cut a tenon, you cut normally with a bit diameter of 10mm or more and normally you cut 10mm width in one pass, not only but, across the grain.

For the above reasons, I would strongly NOT recommend running the sled on the router table fence.

And finally, push in a few screws after you finish with the Super glue, just to be on the safe side...

Regards
niki

Originally Posted by niki

One thing that I would not do with 3 mm plywood or MDF (in contrary to what I did) is, to use the hold-down clamp. I discovered today that when you tight it, it causes the plywood to bent down and you change all the bit height setting so, it's better to clamp the work to the fence with grip clamps (two) or C (G?) clamps that can be used also as handles.

I thought that may have happened.

Originally Posted by niki

I think that running the sled against the router table fence is not a good idea,

Say no more, I now understand why you do it your way.

Niki,

thanks for your advice. It may seem basic to the more experienced but it is very helpful to me.

Brian

Hi Niki,
You have stimulated my thinking, I'm now thinking of making something like this. The round nobs screw into T-nuts to clamp everything in place.

Brian

That will be supper Brian
Well, if my name is already niki, may be I'll "nick" it from you

One small suggestion, before you locate the handles make a few trials without the handles to see where is the best location, I mean, control wise.

Very nice drawing, if I would draw it, you would think that it's something for gardening, that why I use the camera

Post a pic or two when you finish

niki

Originally Posted by niki

That will be supper Brian
Well, if my name is already niki, may be I'll "nick" it from you

One small suggestion, before you locate the handles make a few trials without the handles to see where is the best location, I mean, control wise.

Very nice drawing, if I would draw it, you would think that it's something for gardening, that why I use the camera

Post a pic or two when you finish

niki

I'd be flattered if you wanted to nick it from me. Although it is only a variation on your design.

I will give the handles a bit of thought. Nothing I do is quick, I will probably spend a lot of time trying to get them right.

You should have a look at "Sketch Up" it's a free program and it is pretty user friendly. Like anything, you have to learn how to use it but it is popular and there is a forum devoted to it here.

I don't use it all the time so the drawing took me about an hour. If I want to make any changes it is easy.

I will post some pics when I'm finished but don't hold your breath. For various reasons it may take a month.

Brian