Thread: SCMS Tips and Jigs

Hi Metester,

That's a good little intro for better use of the SCMS. You could spend a heap of time messing about with those zero clearance fences.

A far simpler and more effective system is to simply cut a sacrificial strip of 3mm MDF of appropriate width for the job to sit on the saw table in the horizontal and vertical mode. As you make your progressive cuts simply move the sacrificial strip forward about 20 mm each cut. If you are a purist you can also put a sacrificial strip on top so you don't get a splintered edge on part of the cut from the rear of the blade re-cutting the cut left by the front of the blade.

That's a clever means shown for repetition cutting to length with the removable spacer and stop block. I've seen a few folk operating without using the spacer just using a stop block to right of saw. That is a very very dangerous practice. Just pointing that out for the benefit of forum members. Don't do it!!

Old Pete

Thanks

Thanks Old Pete,

I like your idea. Very practical. I am a little worried about the stop block though. I have been using this method for cutting larger pieces (without the spacer) for a while. It sounds like I have been lucky or is it mainly dangerous when cutting small pieces?

Hi Metester,

The risk is that the section of timber that has been cut off and now lies between the stop block and the still rotating saw blade in the forward position will rack as the saw is withdrawn and will in consequence be projected violently to where it needs to come to rest. I think the risk is much the same with large and small pieces except that super small pieces can be more easily picked up in the disturbed air round the saw.

Before I learned the trick with the extra piece of timber on the stop block side i used to dock all the pieces about 6mm overlength in the first instance and then saw them to exact length using a stop block to left of saw which is quite safe given that you are holding the remaining section firmly against the fence and the stop block with your left hand as you withdraw the rotating saw as it slows down.

It's detail stuff but I think it's important. I've severely chastised aide workers at school for the bad practice approach. I wouldn't be in the machine room with anyone operating this way.

Cheers Old Pete

Ok. Got it. Great safety lesson. Thanks again Old Pete.

Some great tips there. I am thinking that you would have to be very careful with a sacrificial fence at the back of the saw particularly if using double sided tape as was suggested. I think the tape could cause the alignment to go out of square unless you are being very careful indeed.

I also read the section for blade types with interest. I have recently placed an order for a Forrest Chopmaster blade made specifically for mitre saws. It has negative rake teeth as well See:

Forrest Saw Blades - Chop Master Saw Blades Information

many thanks for this valuable document

You're welcome .

I am going to create a zero clearance insert to replace the plastic one - great idea had never thought of it !

Wish I had the time to create a proper mitre saw station with several metres of table and integrated stop block system - like NYWS! maybe one day

Thanks for the tips, very useful. The zero clearance insert and fence is a great idea. So's the dedicated table, if only I had room. Maybe I can make the table but store it separately.

Originally Posted by old pete

Hi Metester,

The risk is that the section of timber that has been cut off and now lies between the stop block and the still rotating saw blade in the forward position will rack as the saw is withdrawn and will in consequence be projected violently to where it needs to come to rest. I think the risk is much the same with large and small pieces except that super small pieces can be more easily picked up in the disturbed air round the saw.

Before I learned the trick with the extra piece of timber on the stop block side i used to dock all the pieces about 6mm overlength in the first instance and then saw them to exact length using a stop block to left of saw which is quite safe given that you are holding the remaining section firmly against the fence and the stop block with your left hand as you withdraw the rotating saw as it slows down.

It's detail stuff but I think it's important. I've severely chastised aide workers at school for the bad practice approach. I wouldn't be in the machine room with anyone operating this way.

Cheers Old Pete

The instructions for my saw say to make the cut, turn off the motor, and when it stops (not before), withdraw the blade..