Thread: Table: Drill Press

Nice work Groggy - must be post of the week at least!

I've shot a video of the table last night, so that should be available soon (possibly today).

My mounting solution looses a fair bit of height on my table because I needed to raise it up to clear the height winder handle. However the solution would work without the MDF spacers for those who need the extra height.

I forgot to mention Zelk's contribution - meant to. I like the concept!

I made a very similar table a while ago and had lots of trouble trying to attach it to the existing table. I ended up simply removing the cast iron table that came with the DP and putting a length of T Track along the bottom of my home made table. I then got a T bolt long enough to go through the mounting ring and put a piece of hardwood and a knob on the end. When I want to change back to the cast iron table I just loosen the knob, slide my table along the T Track and off the T bolt and re-insert the cast iron table. The pictures probably explain it better than I can.

I went for retaining the standard drillpress table, and having 4 bolts that engage in some track placed on the bottom of the table. I didn't recess the track, but that is certainly an option.

Originally Posted by Stuart

I went for retaining the standard drillpress table, and having 4 bolts that engage in some track placed on the bottom of the table. I didn't recess the track, but that is certainly an option.

I like it!
Zelk

I've noticed on all of these tables (and others I've seen in the past) that the corners where the sacrificial insert goes are actually drilled out round hole rather than a neat squared corner.

What's the rationale behind this?

Ta,

M.

I think it's just because people use a jigsaw to cut out the insert and drill four holes at the corners to saw from/to.

Originally Posted by martink

I've noticed on all of these tables (and others I've seen in the past) that the corners where the sacrificial insert goes are actually drilled out round hole rather than a neat squared corner.

What's the rationale behind this?

Ta,

M.

It is so you can get a fingernail under the corner and lift the insert out easily. The inserts are disposable but a firm fit so they don't lift with the bit (theoretically).

I use a different system for the sacrificial element. My replaceable plate is a circle of 1/8" ply - easy to cut out using a hole saw. The rebated space it fits in is an off-centre matching circle. Why off-centre? When the ply has a few holes in it, turn it through 60 degrees and you have a clean space ready. After 5 turns, throw it out and put in a new one. Easy-peasy.

My next DP Table accessory will be a hinged table which will attach to the basic DP tabkle that I have and hinge along the back axis. This will make it easier to drill angled holes than using the rotating table fitted to the DP (which tightens with a screw under the metal table which is v hard to get to). Also combining the hinged table with the rotating metal table will allow holes skewed in two directions to be drilled.

A version of the hinged table is in Robert Wearing's book on jigs.

Yep a good addition to your workshop... Top job

Nice looking device, Groggy. You may be interested in the discussion of drill table inserts (square, rectangular, cubic or circular) that took place a while ago in this thread.