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Thread: Tempering homemade knife blades
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27th April 2017, 09:34 AM #16SENIOR MEMBER
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Heres the thing.. It probably takes me less time to quench and temper something like you are talking about than it takes to write this post.... Under 10 minutes and you are done. If you don't have enough torch - then that is a problem.
Hacksaws.... Generally not super useful for wood carving duty. You will probably have to grind off the teeth then re-heat treat. The teeth are hard but the rest is fairly soft so it doesnt crack. I know of old timers who reused hacksaw blades for knives to cut fruit, meat, and fish... The thing there is that raw flesh is very soft compared to wood.
A couple easier choices:
1. Old file. Already full hard. Temper to your desired hardness then carefully grind the blade profile, remove teeth, and sharpen. The downside is that these are usually too thick.
2. Old hand saw. The body of these is usually in the high 40's/low 50's. Just carefully cut out a blade and sharpen it up. It wont be super hard - but it will be really easy to sharpen and will generally hold a decent edge.
3. Old kitchen knife. Just regrind as per makes you happy and off you go.
4. Dull sawzall blade. Generally pretty hard to be useful in their duty.
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27th April 2017, 09:48 AM #17.
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27th April 2017, 03:47 PM #18
As mentioned heat to non magnetic red. This is a good way to rough test the heat without trying to judge by colour for the inexperienced keep heating and testing to see if a magnet on a stick will cling to the metal.
when heating a thin blade especially you should heat from the back of the spine not laying on the side as this can cause /the blade to warp on quench.
When quenching as mentioned above don't stir put it into the oil and completely submerge in a cutting or a stabbing action depending on the shape depth of quench tank. If you don't completely submerge the blade you will create a differential hardening and a fault which will pose the risk of snapping.
You can temper in your kitchen oven at 2 cycles of 1hr at 200C for most things as a stress relief.
I tend to just heat from the part I want softer and let the colours run. I.e. Up to peacock on the soft part and run to dark straw where I want to keep hard.…..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
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12th June 2017, 05:24 PM #19
Just to finish off this thread, I eventually decided to make up the smaller blade as it had more chance of having reached hardening temp. My first attempt at a handle failed as I attempted to use two steel nails as rivets, these did not mushroom over, bending instead and splitting the handle.
I made a second attempt and used some brass screws for the rivets this time. I probably cut them too short, but at least the peening of the ends didn't split the handle this time.
I filled the rest of the blade kerf with $3 epoxy from the reject shop. It's the first time I've tried to use epoxy for something like this. I expected it to setup much quicker, like builders bog, but it stayed quite runny for some time. I initially left the filled knife on the bench for a little bit and turned around to find the epoxy had all leaked out onto the bench! I did it again and taped it up to set the second time.
The blade seems sharp at the moment, I don't know how long it will last. I don't think I'll be bothering to make a second one.
handle3.jpghandle2.jpghandle1.jpgFranklin
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