Inspired by Sturdee's pioneering effort back in 2005, and with demands of my daughter for a 1800 x 1200 x 350 toy shelf for our grand daughter, and my son's need for a parts cabinet 1000x 500 x 300 in a hurry, I had to get stuck in to adding my Triton extension table to my 10HB table saw over the Xmas break.

I used a length of kapur hardwood 1500 x 60 x 45 for the fence, replacing the original Triton aluminium fence. This allowed me to fit a standard toggle clamp, but I used a longer 3" x 5/16" UNC track bolt for the hold-down bolt because of the height of the fence. I still have to work out a suitable metric scale arrangement for the fence.

This jig was the only way I could crosscut the longer boards with any repeatable accuracy, and do the dadoes and rabbets accurately, and the only way I could confidently crosscut ply without any tearout ( by doing a small kerf cut before raising the blade to do the final cut - works perfectly with a very sharp saw, as shown here).

The TS and jig when fitted takes up most of my shed, and for crosscutting the longer boards, which extend outside the roller door, the TS has to be squeezed up one end of the shed where the roller dooor opening is, as seen in the last photo.

You can see from the photos the TS is on cast iron rollers and adjustable feet for ease of moving. Mistake I made there was to not make all 4 wheels swivel, as there is very limited space to do a 3 point turn required to shift the TS.

With the TS located centrally in the shed, I can rip boards up to 2200 long quite comfortably.

Fortunately this jig is quickly assembled and dis-assembled, leaving me with plenty of space around the TS.

Next project after the toy shelf is to build a movable router table. I already have the cast iron top with router mounting bits from my 10HB saw

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__________________
regards,

Jill

I forgot to mention above how to align the jig so that it crosscuts the boards exactly at 90 deg. I bought a piece of 12mm MDF board 1200 x 450 that has a right angle ( I measured the sides and worked out the angle - I think 89.9deg is acceptable). You can see this board kept handy to the jig at the right of the third photo above.

I then put a piece of 19 x 19mm Tassie Oak in the mitre slot, and butt the short end of the board against it. I then move the hardwood fence against the long edge of the board, and tighten it in position on the Triton sled. This makes the fence at right angles to the mitre slot, and if the blade is correclty aligned to the slot, the fence will be exactly at right angles to the blade

You test it by clamping the MDF board in position, remove the timber from the mitre slot, then push the sled across the talbe, feeling for any shift of the MDF board from the mitre slot edge - works well too , easy to detect any mis-alignment

__________________
regards,

Jill

Good to see that you got it finished Jill. Much easier to handle large boards that way.

BTW I like the Triton orange you used.


Peter.

Jill,

Well Done!

Lovely to see the Sturdee modification expanding. (Obsession with colour noted!).
When I do eventually become the proud possessor of a TS, I have every intention of following suit with that very useful sliding table. At the moment it is still attached to my Mk3 New Series (yes, I know it's getting old but still works really well).

One problem which I know the Triton table has and so too will any TS which will be getting this attachment, is the fixed rail (on your orange/yellow attachment plate) and just how parallel it is to the TS mitre slot. With careful and accurate measurement (using a dial micrometer), I found I had to shim out one of the brackets one the side of the Triton with shim plate and washers until they were both parallel. This is independent of the parallel alignment of the mitre slot with the saw blade. Now I can cut to 0.1mm accuracy.

I would be interested to know if you found this to be a problem with your particular TS and if so how you resolved that problem.

I've also added detachable front and rear support tables which now makes my saw table 5m long. This enables me to cut 2400mm sheet material lengthways - but the sliding table only goes so far doesn't it?.

Thanks for the nice comments, terrauatralis, much appreciated. And yes, I had the same problem lining up the inner rail with the nearside mitre slot. Didn't have time to muck around with it too much, as there was an urgent job overdue requiring the use of this extension arrangement, but found a couple of washers did the trick. I still need to spend some time getting the timer fence vertical surface exactly straight, then work on aligning the fence to be exactly 90 deg to the mitre slot. I was probably about 0.5mm out of square crosscutting a 350mm wide board, but that was OK for the job I was doing.

I have a 1800mm length of 80 x 80 x 6mm piece of aluminium angle that I am going to use as a straight edge on the fence, and use a flush trim router bit to get it exactly right. So there si s still a fair bit to do on this Triton extension, but I could not have done without it these past couple of weeks working on long boards

I am impressed wit the size of your saw -you must have a large shed

I had difficulty holding a 800 x 1800 sheet of ply squarely against the fence, but later used a magswitch table featherboard to keep it against the fence near the start of the sawblade

__________________
regards,

Jill

Isn't the fixed inner rail adjustable on the brackets for performing this operation?

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Growing old is much better than the alternative!

no Sprog, unfortunately.

You can adjust the inner rail up and down on the bracket in the vertical plane, no problems, that will let you set the rail level with the table top, but to move the rail in the horizontal plane, you need to move the bracket closer to or further out from the table with shims. That is the only way to align the inner rail with the mitre slot, so that the rail and slot are parallel in the horizontal plane

__________________
regards,

Jill

But that is not a fault of the Triton extension table. Obviously the side edge of your TS is not parallel with your mitreslot. Ofcourse the simple expedient of adding shims between the brackets and the edge of the TS will fix this.

BTW if you make an accurate spacing block you will be able to use the measuring tapes of the extension table for easy cutting.


Peter.

Just checked the manual, here is an excerpt on aligning the inner rail in the horizontal plane:

Extend the extension table fence across the Workcentre until the tip is level with the left-hand edge of the saw slot. Check for parallel by sliding the extension table so that the fence tip runs the length of the saw slot. Loosen the four nyloc nuts on the inner track support brackets and adjust the position of the track until the fence tip aligns perfectly with the saw slot at both ends of the table travel.

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Growing old is much better than the alternative!

Not sure how this works, Sturdee. How do you determine the width of the spacer board ?

__________________
regards,

Jill

Jill see this post (post 3) which explains it.


Peter.

Thanks Sturdee, much appreciated.

Recapping, it looks like the width of the spacer board is the distance from the sawblade to any point on the scale ( say 620mm from the blade to the 400mm scale mark) minus the value of the scale reading that was chosen ( 400mm) = 220mm

Not just a pretty face, eh?

__________________
regards,

Jill

Peter.

Some Piccies for JillB

2781web - Infeed at the far end, Triton in the middle, outfeed in foreground (also has a M12V router fitted underneath using the Triton sliding router plate). The Triton and infeed table are attached/detached to one another. The Triton table just butts up against the outfeed bench/table. Note the long flat fence - one of two I have made for the Triton. Shed is long and narrowish.

2790web - Underneath infeed section. Right hand side. Table attachment sits on 3mm aluminium angle bolted through the table riser slots. Clamped in place. The infeed table has legs which unbolt and fold up under the top for storage. It's not lightweight but easy enough to pack away.

2830web - Left hand side showing sliding table in place and extra tube supported by two roller stands with jigs to hold round tube in place. This keeps the sheet supported all the way through. The tube is from the original short rails of the early sliding table.
Note: Tall Fence used which allows vertical hold downs to be used.

2832web - Left hand side under fixed rail.

2836web - Right hand side underneath.

2838web - This is how I get a precise elevation for alignment to the Triton table. The legs of the infeed table have height adjustable feet which allows me to set the whole top horizontal and flush to the triton table and the outfeed table (which is actually a fairly heavy bench that's not going anywhere. I use winding stcks and taut string lines to set everything level. Once the infeed table is leveled, all four nuts are tightened. This means the aluminium angle bar can remain in place when the infeed table is ever removed. The two hydraulic jacks ($19 each!) also serve as height adjusters for my Triton Superjaws mounted dual router table.

2841.web - another view of the sliding table section. The Triton fence for the sliding table is typically not used.

TA

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Many thanks for assembling this and taking the photos, terra. Excellent shots by the way, you must have a good camera I appreciated the explanatory notes.

I liked the hydraulic level adjuster on the infeed table. Your setup makes in easy to cut panels in excess of 1200mm wide without the usual problems of keeping the sheet level and against the fence at all times, requiring a fair degree of balance and skill.

__________________
regards,

Jill