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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Brisbane, Qld
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    942

    Default Domino - any good way to register on the inside of a mitred corner?

    Hi folks,

    Building a small end table top with a Qld Maple panel set 'inside' a mitred blackwood apron (hoping I'm not going to pop the mitres with expansion!).

    I'm thinking about how to do the joinery between the panel and the blackwood. Will probably domino because it's fast and what I'm most familiar with - but wondering if there is a better way to locate the mortise on the inside of the apron than just marking it out carefully and aligning the domino visually?

    I'm sure that'll work (particularly given I'll set the domino 'wide' on the apron mortices), just wondering if there's a better way!

    Cheers,

    Danny

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    5,125

    Default

    I often use the Incra ruler (with all the hole in it) and scribe a line, then use the edge of the Dominos faceplate to line it up.

    Shelves in the middle of bookcases are done this way and its been pretty accurate.

    Any chance of a picture?

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Brisbane, Qld
    Posts
    942

    Default

    Ah, the incra rule is a good idea! I am pretty terrible at measuring and marking out but even I normally manage to get it right with that!

    I'm thinking about a redesign (don't want to risk the panel expanding and popping the mitres), might just do a breadboard-esque end with dominoes and then a mitred apron underneath, or a frame and panel/tongue and groove join. I'll try to remember to put some pics up...

    Danny

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1,809

    Default

    I think that is a good idea. Mitres around a solid top will definitely open up or pop off with the expansion and contraction. Even a breadboard end will need to float at the ends - i.e. fix it/glue it only in the middle. Is it needed at all? I made a large Huon Pine table with end-grain - i.e. no breadboard ends, and it has lasted really well. Most antique tables did not have breadboard ends because of the problems. Now, if you used a veneered ply top you can get away with mitred edges or breadboard ends easily - but I agree it does have the same feel as a solid top, which is also certainly my preference.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Brisbane, Qld
    Posts
    942

    Default

    This is what I ended up with (well, pending a coat of bivos wax):



    The top's held on with buttons into domino mortises. Will be interesting to see how flat the top stays!

    Danny

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