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8th March 2007, 08:01 AM #1
Dominoes to join cabinet carcases?
Here's a question which I might answer for myself if I were patient enough to wait for Domi to get here.
What about using dominoes to join cabinet carcases? I have typically used a rebate at the top of the side panels and a dado near the bottom to provide a strong carcase joint. But I have 5 more cabinets to make for my aunty and I'm looking to speed things up. If three or four dominoes in each corner will do the trick it beats fiddling with the router depth settings, allowing for the depth of the rebate, setting up jigs, etc. etc. I'm not talking about fine craftsmanship, I'm talking about strength and speed.
The carcases are 19mm ply.
Simple butt joints are not strong enough and hard to square. Can the Domi do it? I know it will do the face frames, doors, etc. Opinions, please?Cheers,
Bob
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8th March 2007 08:01 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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8th March 2007, 08:40 AM #2
Hi Bob,
The Domino will handle such a task with ease, and do it very quickly too.
When I first got mine, I tried making all sorts of joints, and found that anywhere a regular M/T, biscuit, dowel, pocket hole, etc joint could be applied, the Domino could step in a do a better job.
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8th March 2007, 08:42 AM #3
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8th March 2007, 09:06 AM #4.
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HB Domino is made for it. This is a 2300 x1200 x 900 (big) cupboard for a surf club and is entirly Domied using 42 - 8 x 40`s. The good thing is you use the 15mm setting on the 19mm side and the 25mm setting into the shelves for a 40mm Domino
[edit- with doors on]
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8th March 2007, 09:13 AM #5
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8th March 2007, 11:37 AM #6
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11th March 2007, 01:13 PM #7
Hey Lignum,
looking at your lovely cabinet has reminded me of a question about a Domi technique I've had floating about in the back of my mind. I haven't used mine for that situation yet. When your joining a shelve to a side, obviously you'd pick a height on the Domi that suited the thickness of the shelve material, then do the shelve cuts.. When you go to domi the side that holds the shelve, do you just calculate the correct position for those domi's using the horizontal base as the reference point then clamp on a straight edge?"the bitterness of poor quality is remembered long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten"
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11th March 2007, 05:11 PM #8Tool Junkie
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Carpenter, here is a common method for milling the parts. The cabinet side walls are laying horizontal on the bottom. Then, imagin that the shelves are standing vertical in the location where they will later install (shown by the pencil lines), and then gently tipped over to lay flat. I hope the pictures are self explanitory, because I can't find a better way to explain it in words.
The two pictures are actually best for material 20mm and thinner, but for the 25 mm plywood that I am showing, you are actually better off tilting the pieces so the Top side is facing up. The reason is because you want the Dominoes closer to the bottom surface as much as possible for greater strength.
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11th March 2007, 08:19 PM #9
Great explanation Lignum, thanks heaps.
"the bitterness of poor quality is remembered long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten"
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11th March 2007, 08:30 PM #10.
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11th March 2007, 10:53 PM #11
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23rd March 2007, 03:06 PM #12SENIOR MEMBER
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This might be the case if the Domino was not glued.
But it is glued, top & bottom, to the shelf material. With glue stronger than the wood the Domino is effectively an extension of the shelf material and it matters not whether it is placed above, below, or on, centre.Brian
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23rd March 2007, 05:31 PM #13Tool Junkie
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No, actually it is an engineering matter dealing with leverage. The same answer is true regardless whether it is a floating tenon or an integral tenon. The closer the point of torsional stress is to the surface, the easier it can sheer the fibers.
The best way to understand this is to mill two Domino mortises into the edge of a piece of wood. Make one very shallow to the top surface and one very shallow to the bottom surface. Then push upward on both of them. They will both be weak and break, but the upper Domino will break easier. Moreover, the type of wood failure between the two will also be different, because the upper one will sheer off in-line with the grain, and the lower one will tear across the grain.
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