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Thread: Maddening Domino problem
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27th December 2016, 01:21 PM #1
Maddening Domino problem
Almost every time I use the Domino, which isn't all that often, I get boards that are not flush with each other. The latest example was making a gate out of 90x45mm pine. It has two sides and 4 cross members. The cross members have two recesses in each end, and they are all 15mm from the top of the board (in keeping with setting a 10mm bit to a board thickness of 40mm on the Domino).
However, the sides vary from 15mm to 19mm from the top of the board. There were no changes whatsoever to the machine in between doing the different boards, except to make the mortices in the sides on the wider setting. Of course I made sure (extra extra sure this time) that the machine had good registration on the two faces of the board being routed (there was never a gap between the machine hair line, and my pencil line). Furthermore, I know that all the mortices are square in because the gate assembled square without any persuasion required.
The upshot is that the sides sit proud of the cross members by up to 4mm. FOUR MM!
What on earth can cause this, and does anybody else have any experience of this happening?
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27th December 2016, 01:32 PM #2GOLD MEMBER
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Two possibilities 1/ You're not holding the domino correctly when you plunge and 2/ you're registering against the wrong surface.
It is important that you register against the same surface ( i.e. top) on both boards and that you are absolutely flat against that surface when you plunge. An incorrect technique can result in the domino tilting and results in a shift in position.
I am assuming that you have the timber that you are going to domino set off the bench so that the machine only touches the timber with the fence and not the bench with the bottom of the machine.
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27th December 2016, 01:50 PM #3
No, that's not it:It can't be that because I keep my eye on the hairline and there is never a gap - also, if it were moving up and down then I'd have weird shaped holes, but they are all nice and parallel and square.
Yes, the boards hang over the edge of the bench. On this occasion it wouldn't have matter because the boards were thicker than than bottom of the Domino anyway.
I'll go down and see if I can recreate it in some scraps, and post some pics.
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27th December 2016, 03:27 PM #4
Hi Brett
The problem is that the fence depth can move. Even a fraction, and the join will be out.
You need to get the Seneca Domiplate: Domiplate for 1/2" and 3/4" nominal ply | Seneca Woodworking
This is a spacer for depth of 1/2" and 3/4" thick boards, and will place a domino at the very centre (which is actually immaterial), and reliably (the depth of cut is relevant). I am using one for my 500 on kitchen door frames, and it makes one less setting to worry about.
Edit: just re-read your original post. If you are out by 4mm, then that is user-error. Probably moving the machine as you plunge. If the bit sharp? Is the motor running before you plunge? Are the boards clamped so they cannot move? (Hell, I'm the novice here).
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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27th December 2016, 03:32 PM #5
AHA! I've found the problem. The lever that locks the board thickness control in place was not tightening up enough (even though it was at full whack). I just routed some holes then with all the settings unchanged, and they were about 20mm maybe even more from the top of the board (should be 15mm). This lead to some checking - sure enough there was the culprit - there was a gap between the step and the control of about 5mm, where they should be touching. So the height is slipping during the job. This explains why all the cross members were ok (no slippage yet) and the sides (done after the xmems) were varying in height from 1-4mm extra (first one or two were still 15mm). I hadn't observed that these were all in sequence of increasing error.....although it did perplex me that only the sides had errors.....
So, a simple fix - unscrew the philips head, take off the lever, tighten the hex nut about 1/8 turn and reassemble. Good as gold now.
I'd say that the machine was delivered this way because I've always had these problems. At least now I know to keep an eye on it.
Talk about coincidences - Glider (Mick) just called in a couple of hours and I was moaning about this. He said he had a problem with his Domino, that just happened to be in his car out the front. His problem was that when the face said 90° it was actually about 95° (somehow). I noted that the locking lever for this was not tightening properly so we took it apart (same philips/lever/hex setup). This didn't help his angle, but I also did note that his face plate didn't appear to be flat - turns out it has a 5° bend in it from where the previous owner must have dropped it. It was his loose lever a couple of hours ago that gave me the lead (after I had seen the two steps not engaged).
Hey Mick - thanks for the heads up!
So, a tip for users - check your levers to make sure they are actually tightening properly, even if they are at full throw, as they seem to be prone to getting loose over time (if not right from the start)
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27th December 2016, 03:34 PM #6
Thanks Derek - we crossposted.
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27th December 2016, 04:02 PM #7
Brett, get the Domiplate. This by-passes the fence, where all the problems with depth-of-cut begin. There is no metric version (that I know of) but that is unimportant. I am building frames that are nominally 19mm thick. Close enough. So far have built 11 doors (all Shaker frame-and-panel) for the kitchen. All spot on for level using the Domiplate.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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27th December 2016, 04:24 PM #8
Yes, I can see that's a pretty good piece of kit. It wouldn't have saved me this time though because the boards are 45mm thick, and whilst it doesn't matter about centring they would be way to close to the edge.
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27th December 2016, 04:30 PM #9
He makes mention of fence drift a number of times, so it sounds like this is a common problem with Dominoes.
I can't help but notice in that vid that's he's yet another woodworker on display NOT protecting his hearing. He appears to be a pro, or a least semi-pro, and that is unforgivable. The domino is quite a loud high pitched uni motor that will do your hearing in no time.
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27th December 2016, 05:55 PM #10SENIOR MEMBER
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27th December 2016, 07:13 PM #11
The more I think about this, the more I'm convinced that the problem must be quite common - otherwise the Domiplate would never have been conceived (esp. as it comes with strings - using the machine upside down, using it without the hairline overlap, only for certain thickness boards).
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27th December 2016, 08:37 PM #12
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lTwZ...ature=youtu.be
Domiplate overview link above.
CheersJohnno
Everyone has a photographic memory, some just don't have film.
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27th December 2016, 08:41 PM #13
Yes, that's the same vid as Derek's link had.
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28th December 2016, 12:24 AM #14GOLD MEMBER
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I'm very surprised after paying all that money, one still has to fork out more dough to get addons to make it work properly.
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22nd August 2017, 07:46 AM #15
I have had my Domino 500 for around eight years and suffered this problem, especially when I was doing a lot of repetitive cuts. When I discovered what was happening I just used various " plates " under the base of the machine / workpiece which gave the correct height of cut I was looking for ( not necessarily dead centre ) the "plates" I cut from MDF, ply, laminate etc that were in the scrap bin. This permitted me to get the cut right with confidence, at no additional cost, and use the machine the right way up.
Regards
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