Thread: RO 125 for burnishing and everything sander

I used to think I could get away with one sander for everything.

I guess, perhaps you could, but in reality, I think you'll find over time you might expand your arsenal a bit.

I still haven't got all the sanders I'd like, but so far I have a Bosch 6" ROS (it fails to please me on a few levels), the Festool ETC-EC 150/3 and the Festool DTS-400.

Ideally, I'd like to swap the Bosch out for the Rotex 150. Or maybe the ETC-EC 150/5. Or both. I'm not sure... yet.

I got the RO 150 for a specific project a few years ago and was blown away by it. I needed a sander to remove grinding marks off a sculpted chair and it performed very well. One obvious thing I noticed was whenever I use the RO 150 as a finish sander then change over to me ETS/3, I notice quite a bit of difference in how smooth the ETS is compared to the RO150. Not sure if it’s because of the extra 2mm stroke or the actual size of the sander. I generally only use my rotex in rotex mode and it does that job extremely well. I was so impressed by it that I got the smaller RO 90 which is very handy on narrow surfaces.

As MM said, you could go nuts and buy multiple sanders for different purposes. I like the idea of having the same size sanders eg rotex 150 and ETS 150 as they share the same size abrasives.

If you do want to remove paint, check out the RAS 115. I got one for shaping my chair and it makes me smile every time I use it. It’s also brilliant for paint removal with the right abrasives.

Another sander to check out is the Mirka sanders. From all reports they’re also very good.

Thanks, the smaller stroke of the 125 also kind of appeals to me for the final finishing quality but I hear you that the ETS is very good. I’ll check out the makita options as well out of interest.

Yep agree if the sander lasts well and are good quality I’d probably eventually end up with another for some purpose, maybe a DTS for tricky spots or more likely a vertical staionary sander for edges etc

Hi,

I have been hard burnishing Organoil oils for over ten years now. My poison of choice is the Hard Burnishing Oil. I think it gives a better finish than Tung Oil alone. Not sure why, must the 11 secret herbs and spices!

I use a Rotex ETS150 for the job. Start at somewhere around 100g then make my way upto 4000g The finish is highly resistant to damage and stains etc and has a great patina to it.

I very rarely use the ROTEX now, except for fine finishing of buffalo hides! I've found that the ETS is the sander I use all the time because it doesn't tire me, it just keeps going. No need for anything else! If you want info on my method, send me a PM.
This photo is of a red Gum slab that came in rough and went out like this. It was put in a bathroom and still looks this way I believe (2 years later.)
For cleaning I recommend "Spray and Wipe" cleaner. Works a treat.

Regards,

Rob


IMG_0022.jpg

Thanks Rob, so just to confirm what you are saying, the ETS despite being just RO powers through and keeps rotating even while sanding wet and with sawdust paste?

Is the burnishing oil fine on areas that don’t get burnished, ie just looks like tung oil normally does?

Hi Austin,

I don't use vacuum when I'm actually burnishing. Like you, I found it didn't give satisfactory results. You may want to think about how much oil you are applying. I use enough to make the surface saturated and that's all. If needed you can add more later on in the process. Pour some oil onto the surface and allow it to sit for a couple of minutes. At this stage, you will already have sanded the piece with 100, 150, 240 and 400g. (with the vacuum attached). You should have a pretty much dust free surface. Disconnect the vacuum and then, using the same 400g pad start burnishing. Your oil will form a "sludge" as you go. I do a bit at a time. I use up and back strokes from one end of the area to the other. Ten up and back strokes should be adequate. Then change your pad to, say 500 or 800g and continue. Don't wipe the surface between grits. Use the same pattern of sanding. After you've finished this, repeat using whatever grits you wish to use. I use 800, 1200 1500 2000 4000g.You can then wipe the surface with a clean, dry cotton cloth. There should be very little sludge coming off and you should have a warm workpiece with a mirror finish and a great smell. That's it. When you want to clean the object you've burnished, use "Spray and Wipe." I know this one works, though others I have tried on the fly seem to work well. You should be able to put hot plates or serving dishes on the surface with no ill effects.The finish should last a long time, even in high traffic areas. And, you won't get red wine stains either!

Regards,

Rob

Thanks LGS, seems similar except I was wiping the surface between higher grits as per these instructions https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YG5uF5HB7s

Those who use a sander like the Festool that has a built in suction (it still sucks even when no vacuum is connected), does the slurry not get drawn into the sander? Or do you use sanding disks without holes?

I did some "wet work" with an old junk ROS sander, and it was so filthy afterwards that I would be very worried about trying anything similar with my Festool.

Lance

Lance, that is what my bosch is kind of doing...through a disk without holes! But perhaps Festool has a backing pad wothout holes meant for buffing?

Laance, the term "wet work " worries me. How much oil were you using? Very early in the piece, I was using large amounts of oil and found that everything became saturated. The burnishing was incomplete and oil proceeded to leak back out of the timber. It took some time, but the system I have works. Consistently, repeatably and reliably. My sander is still fine after ten years. All I've had to do was replace an on/off switch, which would have needed replacing at some stage anyway. I still use the same sanding pad, all the pipes are clean and it's just not an issue. Too much oil will cause just exactly what you saw, clogging, deposits of slurry on the base of the sander. You're Festool ill be fine, just don't flood the work with excess oil.

Regards,

Rob

I think I’m still a bit heavy on the oil, but my problem with not rotating comes after I’ve wiped it down at about 1200 grit, the surface is smooth but damp and it makes a beautiful seal with the sander and it clamps itself to the surface. I’m using the clith backed micromesh from sandpaper man at that grit.

Hi Austin,
I must admit that I have not tried micromesh pads and they may well be a horse of a different colour. I use the Festool pads and only the 2000 and 4000g pads are sponge. I get the pads at a reasonable price, so don't feel the need to change. Also, I'm more than happy with the finish I get. I reuse the sponge pads several times and still get great results. If what you have works for you, maybe there is no need to change, though maybe it's something to think about.

Regards,

Rob

Thanks for the info Rob, well its not really working well, hence the interest in the rotex. But I might take your advice on less oil and not wiping it down and see how it goes before I buy a new sander. Nice redgum by the way!