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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    East Warburton, Vic
    Age
    54
    Posts
    14,189

    Default

    The Bandsaw Book by Mark Duginske is suppose to be the bible of bandsaw setup.

    You can get it at [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Band-Saw-Handbook-Mark-Duginske/dp/0806963980/ref=pd_bbs_3/102-6089021-1857765?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1193361431&sr=1-3"]Amazon[/ame]
    Cheers

    DJ


    ADMIN

  2. # ADS
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    Always
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    2010
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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Council Bluffs, Iowa
    Posts
    297

    Default

    Well the problem was the saw was not coplanar at all. I had to make a jig so the straightedge would fit over the frame and then was able to adjust the bolt on that back and after several hours and rounds of tweaking I have gotten it to work well. Have been able to get the 3/8 blade to track well and then switch to a 1/4 blade and it seems to work well. Dust control chute works well and it caught nearly all the dust.
    Here are some shots of some playing around I did with it. I took a ¾ pine 1x 6 and did a cross cut on it, then ripped one edge on it and then resawed it in half and half again. All with a ¼ blade. Worked pretty good I think. With a good quality blades and the proper blades for the job it should work pretty darn good!

    I spent several hours working on the saw this weekend and had it running well by the time the repair tech got there. It forced me to learn the saw and how it works. I will be getting Mark's new book as well. Thanks for the help and advice.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    1,024

    Default

    Excellent!

    Good on you for getting into it yourself.

    woodbe.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Council Bluffs, Iowa
    Posts
    297

    Default

    Thanks Woodbe! So, for real hardwoods and re sawing I should put the thing in slow speed? Should this just be done when re sawing or would you do this also if I had a 1/8 blade in thick wood while making a band saw box?

    Thanks,
    Corey

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    1,024

    Default

    Hi Corey,

    I can't talk from experience as my saw has just one speed. I think it depends on the blade, the wood and the required finish of the cut wood. Not knowing how you high/low speed compares to my saw's speed, I'd guess that running it on high unless the blade heats up would be my initial plan, but others here may have a better idea

    In Lonnie Bird's book, he basically says that you have a choice. Cut fast (ie. push the work against the blade to cut as fast as possible) and you will get lots of blade marks to sand out later. Cut slow and you will get smoother results.

    Hope that helps.

    woodbe.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Bundanoon, Southern Highlands
    Posts
    1,058

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Boxinator View Post
    Thanks Woodbe! So, for real hardwoods and re sawing I should put the thing in slow speed? Should this just be done when re sawing or would you do this also if I had a 1/8 blade in thick wood while making a band saw box?

    Thanks,
    Corey
    Advice from bandsaw blade manufacturers ~ When bandsawing wood always use the highest possible speed setting!
    Tony Ward
    Now a power carver and living the dream.

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Council Bluffs, Iowa
    Posts
    297

    Default

    Thanks for that Tony!

    Corey

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Mount Colah, Sydney
    Age
    72
    Posts
    923

    Default

    'Twill also depend on capability of your saw.

    I find that at higher speed, and heavy resawing, motor tends to bog down, and also can get belt slip. (Yes I know I can tension the belt, but that is another story)

    Having gone back to lowest speed, find I get best results.

    regards
    Last edited by Alastair; 30th October 2007 at 03:28 PM. Reason: Typo
    Alastair

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