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Thread: Bandsaw technique
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14th June 2012, 03:28 AM #1GOLD MEMBER
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Bandsaw technique
I have a little 8" Ryobi which is barely adequate for cutting the perimeters of some wood carvings.
Example: I needed to cut an oval shape, about 35 x 55cm in 3cm birch (Betula). I believed that long, smooth curves would spare me a lot of finishing work. Much to my annoyance, every last short pause in the cutting process left a vertical groove in my piece.
I got it done but I'm left with a slightly wobbly edge after drum sanding.
How should I push the wood around on the bandsaw to avoid those grooves? How should I be holding my arms and the wood to get the smooth curves?
PS Please keep posting pix of the BS Boxes you make = always a delight to look at.
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16th June 2012, 07:28 AM #2
Hi Robson Valley,
I have been wondering if you are making multiple copies of the oval your cutting ? If so then I would suggest using a template with a jig and guide nose. With this you only need to be concerned with keeping the template in contact at the nose - where the blade sets into a narrow notch, at the nose, and is above your workpiece (attached by 2 sided tape - or other methods). The template can also be used on a router for a flush trim.
There is a sample at FineWoodworking here, it's a little overkill but it'll give you the ideas. Others I have seen are simple = 2 pieces of wood in T shape clamped to the table.
A Bandsaw Jig for Repeatable Complex Curves - With Project Plan - Fine Woodworking Article
Other than that, I'd cut the outer edge of the pattern and sand. I think each person develops their own technique - just be comfortable. When I started with the band saw , I'd do a dry run of the piece to be cut, always using the finger tip as the controller.
Glenn
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16th June 2012, 09:37 AM #3
Freehanding? Practice, practice, practice.
If you're using a template, I'd use the BS to rough-cut the shape, then run a router (w/bearing bit) around the template for bringing down to final size.
It's an extra step, but reduces the skill requirements to get a nice finish.
- Andy Mc
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16th June 2012, 09:42 AM #4
Robson
Yes, it is a matter of practice, followed by practice.
It may also be a question of whether your bs is properly set up and whether the blade tension is correct?Tony Ward
Now a power carver and living the dream.
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18th June 2012, 01:37 AM #5GOLD MEMBER
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When you find a minute, look down in the Wood Carving forum for the Halibut Serving Platter. That's a case in point. I did get long stretches of smooth cut. I think that I stop/pause ever so often then another sweep. But, it leaves a saw mark.
How can I plan, in my head, not to stop from one end to the other?
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1st July 2012, 11:19 AM #6
A couple of weeks late, but I've been thinking about your problem.
I'm assuming that the groove/mark is left only when you stop during a curving cut.
If you stop in the middle of an inside curve, the blade is likely to leave a mark as shown here. (Pretty rough drawing, but it illustrates the point): -
Attachment 214149
Possibly you could plan your cuts so that you stop/pause only on outside curves, then any mark will probably only be on the waste.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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7th July 2012, 02:45 AM #7
I would mostly agree with chiDAMN! What you need is just to keep on practicing. Sooner or later, you will get used to the proper way on how to feed the wood on your saw. You have to make sure to learn the basics first before doing some complicated jigs.
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7th July 2012, 03:09 AM #8GOLD MEMBER
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Thank you all. The little bandsaw is more of a means-to-an-end in wood carving, just to take off waste (if the piece fits!). The Halibut Platter is a good example.
The saw marks = I never thought to look to see if the mark is reproduced in both faces of a cut. Never. But I will. Want to cut some spoon blanks from 32(?)mm birch. Good opportunity.
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