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28th March 2005, 02:43 PM #1
Novice
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Cutting a bandsaw box...!!,.....a question
Hi folks, I just joined this site, after having found it by surfing around, and I am very impressed with it. I do have one question regarding bandsaw boxes, which I have been building for a while now after having purchased a book from the USA, via the net.
I notice in some of the photos that I cant see any "entry cut", where the drawers are cut out. Is there some trick to this or is it just very good jointing and glueing to conceal the entry cut. Of course in a lot of boxes the entry cut is very obvious and sometimes a feature is made of it.
I've just come back from a trip to tassie and managed to bring back a few small pieces of huon pine and sassafrass which I am keen to work with.
For a finish I have been using firstly a liquid bees wax, and then several coats of a wax buffed on with a drill press/lambs wood pad. The finish is rather good, but any improvements on this,...??
Any comments would be appreciated for my first post in this new site,
Paul
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28th March 2005 02:43 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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30th March 2005, 09:04 PM #2
Senior Member
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- Mar 2002
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- Brushgrove, NSW, Australia
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Paul,
Good question. I am trying my hand at bandsaw boxes too and that is something I would like to know. Sorry I can't help you.
There is a woman from the US called Donna Menke (i think that is how it is spelt) - hopefully she will see your post and answer it - she is a member of this forum.
Regards
Don
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30th March 2005, 10:25 PM #3
Dehydrated Hydrographer
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- Jun 1999
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- Westleigh, Sydney
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- 9,549
If you can make your entry cut along the grain line and at a tangent to the drawer cut-out, it can be almost invisible when you glue it up. Another technique is to design in a chamfer on either side of the cut. If you do this, you have to make the chamfer a feature, rather than an obvious disguise.
It's harder to hide the cut in a light timber such as huon pine than in a dark timber. You may need to use a glue that can be pigmented, such as epoxy. Sassafrass should be much easier.
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4th April 2005, 03:44 PM #4
Senior Member
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- Feb 2004
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- 114
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14th May 2005, 02:39 PM #5
Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2002
- Location
- albany West Australia Australia
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- 133
I am probably a bit late coming in on this one but one important thing to remember is to glue and clamp the joint before you glue on the back of the box. This will hide the joint in most cases, especially in dark wood such as jarrah. It will also ensure a better fit for the drawers .Remember to never sand the joints that you are glueing back together.
As far as finish goes I find that by using a few coats of Danish oil and when dry, polish with Gilly Stevensons Antique wax.
Alf
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25th May 2005, 12:57 AM #6
Deceased
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- Aug 2003
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- Perth (NOR)
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Hi Alf,
Suppose I can say welcome back mate, gee it's been quite some time since I last saw a post from you? How is your CT BAS-350 going. I eventually bough one after that woodshow as well. It's doing great although I use it mainly for resawing with the 19 mm x 1.25 TPI blade.
Take care, hoping to see you at the show in Perth in August!
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5th June 2005, 04:35 PM #7
SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Mar 2001
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- forest. tasmainia
- Age
- 90
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- 1,586
Have a look at this site.
www.cleverwood.com
www.personalityboxes.com
interesting.Last edited by ptc; 6th June 2005 at 10:37 AM. Reason: add another web site.
p.t.c
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28th July 2006, 01:09 PM #8
woodworks-by-donna
- Join Date
- Oct 2004
- Location
- Austin, Texas, U.S.A.
- Age
- 77
- Posts
- 47
Sorry to be so late in responding, but I just noticed the comments. I wish I were notified by email when comments were made here.
In any case- this is Donna Menke of Texas. The original question about disguising the entrance kerf has been well handled by others. Either emphasize it or glue it together matching the kerf just the way it was cut apart. One mistake I see often is to leave the interior corner that sometimes results when the sides are glued back together. This should be eliminated by sanding it back to an arc.
On the issue of finish, I have a couple of favorite techniques. My old way was Watco oil followed with the Beall Wood Buff System and it is a good finish. An even easier finish is the Tung oil/urethane finish by General Finishes, Arm-R-Seal. Realy nice, and very easy. Both are fool proof.
By the way, my book is scheduled to be available in Jan, 2007. Go to my web site to read more about The Ultimate Band Saw Box Book. Thanks, Donna
www.geocities.com/donpbk/woodworks-by-donna.html
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