Thread: 19mm steel rod - Where to get some

Was given one of these several years ago, complete except fot the pawl. Thanks for excellent photo's, I should be able to make a better one than my first attempt. My drill is near identical but has an extended drive shaft beyond the flywheel and two flatbelt pulleys. fast and loose, to give a power drive option.
My old machine had spent years as a piece of yard art, and was wearing a few coats of bituminous silver paint, but in otherwise good condition under it all. Cleaned up and repainted it and took it down to our local Ag Show along with a few vintage engines etc, and it seemed to attract some interest when I drilled 1/2" holes in a length of flat bar while minding some of my running engines.
Good to see there are still a few of thes old ones around. Still recall the 1950's when the well equipped farm workshop could boast one of these. Regards,
Combustor.

Originally Posted by steck

Aah! It begins to make sense! I can't loosen my "pawl" (new word to add to the vocabulary!) That's the bit that's seized.
I may have to cut the rivet to remove it and then replace it. Any advice on this????
Thanks for the info.

Heat the pawl and rivet to cherry red and quickly immerse in a bucket of water, move the part back and forward fairly quickly through the water to speed the cooling otherwise the steam surrounding the part will decrease cooling speed.
This will shock/kill the rust in the pivot and it will then move freely.

Shed

Originally Posted by shedhappens

Heat the pawl and rivet to cherry red and quickly immerse in a bucket of water, move the part back and forward fairly quickly through the water to speed the cooling otherwise the steam surrounding the part will decrease cooling speed.
This will shock/kill the rust in the pivot and it will then move freely.

Shed

I personally wouldn't like to do that as the parts are cast iron with exception of the rivet, and I think it could end poorly. If it was a forged steel part I'd have no issues.

When you heat cast iron to weld it you have to do all kinds of things to stop it producing stress and making the casting brittle, also slow cooling in damp saw dust etc.

IME heating to red hot and allowing to air cool accomplishes the same thing. Rust as we normally see it has water bonded in with the oxide, heating the rust drives off the water, changing the of rust into iron oxide powder.

An analogy is that of heating plaster of paris to return it to a powder.

Another problem solved! I opted for the slow cautious approach first and put it into the electrolysis bath for a day. (plus, I dont have an oxy torch!)
It is now moving 360 degrees but not yet spinning freely!
thanks to everyone for their input!

Thats good news.

Originally Posted by steck

Another problem solved! I opted for the slow cautious approach first and put it into the electrolysis bath for a day. (plus, I dont have an oxy torch!)
It is now moving 360 degrees but not yet spinning freely!
thanks to everyone for their input!

dont need a torch

next time you just fire up a bbq and toss it in along with the meat

Steck contacted me chasing a few photos of my drill in hope of identifying correct washer locations. Mine might have been the economy model because it only features two washers, one under the downfeed handwheel and the other behind the feed lever's split pin. The former could even be a ring in given its size.

BT

PS. Steve, let me know if you need any specific close ups or whether you want me to dismantle anything and snap a photo or two.

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

Steck contacted me chasing a few photos of my drill in hope of identifying correct washer locations. Mine might have been the economy model because it only features two washers, one under the downfeed handwheel and the other behind the feed lever's split pin. The former could even be a ring in given its size.

BT

PS. Steve, let me know if you need any specific close ups or whether you want be to dismantle anything and snap a photo or two.

The photos are great, thanks heaps! I have 3 washers left in my cleaning tub and I am not sure where the 3rd one goes? I think it was either with the fly wheel or the gear on the other end of the same shaft. After almost a hundred years, who can tell if its original or not?

After this my next challenge is to assemble the ball bearing race.
I am hoping (expecting?) that when I assemble everything that all the bits go round as they should! Fingers crossed!

I just checked on my original rusty photos and if there is a washer under the downfeed wheel its smaller than yours. Perhaps in this case size doesn't matter?