Thread: my new AL960 cutting a taper

They will be Pushme Pullme,generally they would come with Lock Nuts to secure them from coming loose.

If you have trouble getting to them without droping the motor you may want to consider changing to Hex head set screws,maybe easier to get an Open ender and Ringy on.

The well also be the Bolts securing the Headstock to the Bed that will need to be cracked so you can do your alignment.

Originally Posted by pipeclay

They will be Pushme Pullme,generally they would come with Lock Nuts to secure them from coming loose.

If you have trouble getting to them without droping the motor you may want to consider changing to Hex head set screws,maybe easier to get an Open ender and Ringy on.

The well also be the Bolts securing the Headstock to the Bed that will need to be cracked so you can do your alignment.

Whats the centre one for?...to pull/push the head but that could be done with just the two outer ones

I am going to get a long series hex drive and replace the short hex in 1/4 socket drive

I might just have to lower the motor rather than take it out..I might even get away with out doing that..I'll see?

The Centre screw is probably just there for good measure,from what I can see it serves no other purpose.

Originally Posted by eskimo

I have leveled the bed across the ways (and best I can length ways... does it really matter if the bed slopes left to right by say a few thou?)

It cuts a 0.001" taper from the tailstock (smallest dia) to headstock (largest dia) over 2 inches. (without use of tail stock....on mild steel bar 1.5" inch dia, 4" long...with just enough material outside of jaws of of chuck to get 2.5 inch of turning)

On the back of the lathe above the motor mounts but on the headstock are 3 cap screws. Are these for aligning the headstock to bed?

the pulley end one is loose. The centre one seems to fixed and the far end one (chuck end) also seems to loose ( i cant get to it as I need to drop the motor out of the way)

Three words "Send it back" or have there tech guy come out and fix it right. This is supposed to be a "Taiwanese quality lathe" and even my Chinese lathe came turning true.
There should have been a spec sheet with the lathe and this will be way out of spec.

If you touch it yourself you void the warranty and will spend many many hours trying to align it. It's just not worth your time to have to do it.

Dave

could be deflection of the workpiece making the taper.

In my limited experience I find it's best to do as many measurement testing as your skills and equipment will allow before loosening any bolts.

After you take the measurements and the findings agree with your turning results, walk away, have a think of another way to do the test and re-test.

It's amazing what you will think up once you walk away. AND at this stage you haven't needlessly adjusted, voided a warranty or (in my case) stuffed something up!

The old saying of "only fools jump in" is equally relevant with me and engineering!

Have you tried a headstock alignment test such as Rolle's Dad's method? Very quick and easy to set up and test.

Just a few thoughts based on my limited experience/knowledge.

Simon

Eskimo
I agree with Dave, ring the agent up and have them come out and align it.
That set up on your lathe is similar but different to my AL1000D. Mine has four allen screws set up in pairs comprising one long one and one short one right next to it,each pair are at the ends of the mounting.In each pair one screw is threaded into the outer part of the mounting and the other screw into the inner part, this enables you to push/pull to adjust and then tighten all four to lock in place. Not the best system but it works in the limited space. There are other screws and nuts that lock the headstock down securly once you have adjusted it.It looks like they have done a similar set up with your lathe but have only one screw the centre one to lock it all up.No screws should be loose,could have come loose in transit.
The amount of taper you have is way too much. I tested my lathe's headstock with a ground bar mounted in a collet with a dial indicator.
Bob

I looked back at your first post and noticed you never said what tool you where using for the cut, so RC brings up a good point.
Are you using sharp HSS or high rake carbide tips? When doing stuff like this I prefer sharp HSS.

Dave

The bolts on my al 960b were tight, but did not place much force on them when checking

isn't the center bolt used as a type of pivot and locking bolt to keep some force on the long adjusting bolts against the surface they push on, to reduce the chance of any movement of the headstock when tightening the headstock bolts.
the center bolt moves the headstock in the opposite direction of the 2 outer adjusting bolts.

One curio noted from your second pic, and is the same on my lathe is that there is no headstock lock bolt near the way, even though there is a threaded hole in the bed.
the manual shows the 4 lock bolt points on the bed.
you can notice the hole at the rear with no bolt.

Originally Posted by .RC.

could be deflection of the workpiece making the taper.

taking 2-3 thou cuts..I wouldnt have thought that would be a problem on that size bar?

and too late..i have started to adjust

but what is that hole at the rear?

will have a look tomorrow night

Try to keep it in line with the tailstock when the tailstock is aligned by the marks on it.

Dave

Originally Posted by eskimo

and too late..i have started to adjust

That's a pity. My AL960B cut a worse taper than yours and 100% of the problem was bed twist. Using a variation of "Rollie's dad's method", I got the twist out of the bed and the lathe cut parrallel. I think the problem now will be getting the headstock back to where it was after precision alignment at the factory. I'm sure there is a way to do this but I dont know what it is.

Graham

HI,
I just had a look at My AL-960 in Reference to the hole in the second Pic, Mine is the same. Eskimo did You try a Lathe Test Bar RDGTOOLS 5MT LATHE PARALLEL TEST BAR | eBay directly into the Headstock to check the Headstock Alignment Directly from the Spindle ?. I just recently Bought one of the Test Bars in the Link (only took 4 days to arrive) to check My Lathe. I also just Bought one of these 0.001 Dial Indicators Yesterday New Digital Dial 0.001mm Dial Indicator Range 25.4mm Guage Caliper | eBay so as I can check My Headstock Alignment.

I will be interested in Hearing how you Go as I am sure will other AL-960 Owners. Good Luck with it Eskimo.

Originally Posted by GDD

That's a pity. My AL960B cut a worse taper than yours and 100% of the problem was bed twist. Using a variation of "Rollie's dad's method", I got the twist out of the bed and the lathe cut parrallel. I think the problem now will be getting the headstock back to where it was after precision alignment at the factory. I'm sure there is a way to do this but I dont know what it is.

Graham

It would appear if the lathe had been precision aligned that they must of forgot to precision tighten the screws.
Its not a big drama setting the head it just takes a little time,.001" taper is not much over that short distance to chase.