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Thread: my new AL960 cutting a taper
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30th January 2012, 09:04 PM #16GOLD MEMBER
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When you come to check the alignment you may be better off try to cut a longer piece of material un supported.
I would try for a bit at least 300 long.
Will be easier to see how much your moving the head with the indicator,at 300mm it should give you around .006" taper.
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30th January 2012 09:04 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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30th January 2012, 09:45 PM #17"Outside of a dog a book is man's best friend ,inside a dog it's too dark to read"
Groucho Marx
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30th January 2012, 09:54 PM #18GOLD MEMBER
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Hi eskimo,
I think I've asked you this before but I've forgotten.
What sort of level do you have?
Just be sure you have any twist out of the bed before you start resetting the headstock.
Stuart
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30th January 2012, 10:11 PM #19GOLD MEMBER
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How is the finish on the piece that you turned? Is it good quality? Have you tested to see how much the spindle or chuck will move when you apply upward or downward force?
Perhaps the preload on the spindle bearings were not set properly from factory?
Simon
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30th January 2012, 10:16 PM #20Distracted Member
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30th January 2012, 10:53 PM #21Dave J Guest
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30th January 2012, 11:02 PM #22Member
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I can't say as I haven't done it, but the maths suggest to me that it might not be easy. I just checked my lathe and the three adjustment screws are about 90 mm apart. ie 180 mm between front and back with the middle one in the middle. Let's assume the headstock will pivot on the middle screw. Its about 300 mm from the centre screw to the front of the 4 jaw, so any movement of the front adjustment screw will give about three times that movement at the front of the chuck. If the taper is .02 mm, (about a thou) adjustment required is half that or .01mm. This is at the job, so movement at the front adjusting screw will be one third that or .003 mm. Those screws look to me to be M8 which means pitch of 1.25 mm, so the turn on the front adjustment screw required to get the adjustment needed is 1.25 divided by .003 which is 1 over 416 of a turn or 0.8 of a degree.
It might be easy for you, but I don't think I'll try it.
Graham
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30th January 2012, 11:17 PM #23GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Graham ,
I think you forgot that both ends of the job will move. You need to move the far end .01mm further than the near end. So if my math is correct and the job is 50 long if the far end moves 0.01mm the near end will move 0.01/7*6=0.0086mm. So you'll need to move the far end 0.071mm........
Who wants to check my math?
Stuart
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30th January 2012, 11:45 PM #24Member
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31st January 2012, 05:42 AM #25GOLD MEMBER
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One of the reason why you would use the longest piece of material you can to get the greatest taper you can for ease of checking.
Not sure of any calcs involved,just using an indicator and time.
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31st January 2012, 07:32 AM #26Pink 10EE owner
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31st January 2012, 08:13 AM #27GOLD MEMBER
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31st January 2012, 08:14 AM #28Distracted Member
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31st January 2012, 08:21 AM #29GOLD MEMBER
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now I know why I won it in a raffle...its a dud
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31st January 2012, 08:33 AM #30GOLD MEMBER
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