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  1. #16
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    Grahame, just an alternative thought for you on wheels -
    I worked for a company once where they would cast rubber/ urethane two part mixes into mounts to make nesting for parts (for example fixtures on conveyor lines). I don't think that skateboard wheels will work too well, but was wondering about sections of pipe, machine a bearing seat in each end and then casting a rubber coating on the outside. Professional companies that make urethane rollers coat the rolls and then grind them concentric - something similar could be done I'm sure (Bruce/ Abratool would probably know the tricks to this) with a mandrel to locate on the bearing seat or even bearing centre. The 2 part mix usually comes in a litre pack as the smallest size, but for a one off perhaps some ribbed rubber sheet secured with contact adhesive (and then ground concentric)

    Michael

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  3. #17
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    Aug 2008
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    Oatley NSW
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    Default

    Have a look at this for the Rollers
    Pallet Jack Wheels | Access Caster Caster Wheels

    Regards,
    Keith_W.

  4. #18
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    Ballina N.S.W.
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    Grahame,
    When I built my grinder I ran into the same dilemma that you are facing, after considering a lot of different designs and costs I chose to make all of the wheels from solid aluminium bar with bearings. On my large wheel 8" diameter I contact cemented a strip of insertion rubber to the outside as it is very uniform in its thickness, that wheel runs very true with no vibration. I am not sure about the skate board wheels as they are not designed for the speed and heat generated when grinding. You can buy other wheels overseas but when I factored in the freight they worked out to be fairly expensive as well.
    Bob

  5. #19
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Whilst looking for caswells blackening solution i bumped into this stuff, i have seen it before but never used it. Could be just the ticket for coating contact wheels. Liquid - Plasti Dip
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  6. #20
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    Plasti-Dip is more like the plastic coating you get on the handles of pliers when they are not slip on moulded ones. My experience with it is that it is a good coating but I suspect that the action of a belt going over the top of it would tear it up.
    I think Bob's experience with glueing rubber on a wheel is going to produce the cheapest rubber wheel.

    Michael

  7. #21
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Hi Michael,
    I want contact wheels down to 1". I would not think the rubber would work so well at these smaller sizes, and you would get a bump at the join.
    Another thought though, how about bicycle inner tubes? No join to worry about, and you could stretch several layers over to get a decent thickness.
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  8. #22
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    Default Wheel Types

    A couple of years ago i worked for a manufacturer of progressive cavity pumps where the rotors where polished using slacker belt linish machines PLC controlled we used to run them 16 hours a day 6 days a week. Rubber tracking wheels where never used as the heat killed them good unless they are grooved like the style used in the multi tool or parken brand units even then they where lucky to last 12 / 18 weeks as the heat cycles still killed the rubber.

    Rubber as it is heated and flexed / not allowed to cool forms a hysteresis when the rubber work hardens / cooks internally and fails this is what killed these wheels in our usage of them

    When i built a new machine before i left we used 4140 case hardened steel with a one percent crown and maximum 3 mm wall and lip so very thin and light weight for home use i would not bother about all this just an alloy hub with some good bearings and light crown

    If you want the grooved rubber wheels which by the way do work very wheel in cooling the belts for general usage you are far better to buy an existing one and build a machine around it

    Bruce

  9. #23
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    Hi Ueee,
    When you cut the insertion rubber for the wheels you cut it at a 45 degree or greater angle then you get no bump. Some of the finer grit belts 600 grit or finer do have a slight ridge in the join but it is very small and does not cause a problem. I only rubber coated my 8" diameter wheel as it rotates slow enough to not generate too much heat, my smaller wheels are just plain uncoated and work OK, bearing in mind with belt grinders that you let the belt do the work and don't apply a lot of pressure to the wheel.
    Bob

  10. #24
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    Default Linisher

    A linisher is on my medium-term todo list as well. I've scavenged some rollers off a treadmill, got some bargain-priced belts off eBay and have a selection of old motors to choose from. This page has links to many design ideas to consider. I probably wont get around to making mine for months yet but look forward to seeing how you all make yours.
    The first step towards knowledge is to know that we are ignorant.

  11. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by steamboatbrucey View Post
    we used to run them 16 hours a day 6 days a week.

    Rubber tracking wheels where never used as the heat killed them good unless they are grooved like the style used in the multi tool or parken brand units even then they where lucky to last 12 / 18 weeks as the heat cycles still killed the rubber.
    Bruce,
    That is interesting about the rubber.My Multitool has rubber wheels each end of the belt and 20 years of operation have not affected the rubber at all.
    ( thats if you don't count when I sharpened a blade wrong way up and it bit in the belt and wheel.But that was me not the properties of the rubber))

    The difference is we home users my use them intermittently but not not for 16hrs per day, probably not even an hour per day.
    I am leaving my options open at the moment on wheels.

    My thinking is that the wheels and belts are the heart of the unit. There's a plastic specialist down the road from my place and I am on good terms with the one of the blokes there.I will be doing some research with them to see whats feasible in plastics and go from there. This is where my efforts will be concentrated first.

    I shall collate my results and present them to the forum at the appropriate time .I am also leaning towards the use of the DC treadmill motor as there's a bunch of them at the recyclers.
    Thank you everyone for your help thus far.

    Grahame

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