Thread: Angled drill adaptor needed

Hi Dean, when i did my apprenticeship we had a Makita angle drill. It was like an angle grinder with a chuck built in to the gearbox. It was probably only 80mm high, and ran pretty slot and had plenty of touque. Like this Makita DA3000R 0 4 10mm Angle Drill

Why not buy an dedicated angle drill? Sure they are expensive new but I think for around $100-$150 you should be able to pick something decent up second hand. Will be even cheaper if you buy pneumatic.


Which usa ones were $170

I just had a quick look on ebay an seen a milwaukee one for $76.90 which looks to be good quality and not a bad price, the seller has also sold 143 and his feee back looks pretty good.

Milwaukee Right Angle Drill Attachment - 49-22-8510 | eBay

Would air be an issue?

Something like this?NEW RIGHT ANGLE AIR DRILL HAND POWER AIR TOOL COMPRESSOR SANDER POLISHER GRINDER | eBay

maybe even an air ratchet to put the screws in.

Are you lubrictaing the screws?

Stuart

How would one of these go?

Toolzone Flexible Drill Extension Shaft only £15 with FREE Delivery*

I think what you are looking for is a "Skewdriver" which is a bevel geared device with an angle of approx 60 degrees.
"Skewdriver" is a brand name and is/was available from a number of tool outlets and a similar device is available from Wurth Australia.
They can be used either with the supplied screwdriver handle or by removing the handle in any Drill.
They use 1/4 hex bits.

Roger

Ewan. How much is plenty of torque? I use my "750w Ryobi do everything" drill to drive in these tek screws. Its the only thing with enough grunt. It has enough to snap off big tek screws although I use next size down now due to the difficulty.

Com_VC. The Milwaukee right angle attachment is similar to the one from Carba-tec and is only rated to #8, 3inch screws and probably soft American wood. This is seriously hard wood I am talking about. You just don't try driving in nails as they just bend. Even a roofing nail will bend nearly every time. It must have been much easier when the wood was new as there are nails in it. I think the house was built from locally milled timber, probably with a portable mill onsite as there are many similar houses around the area. Soldier Settler houses. People around here still mill their own timber as they need it. I would guess that the timber was still partly green when the house was built. The previous owner settled the land like many others, and lived on the property before the house was built. The shed is also a copy of many around the area. It was used as a dwelling untill the house was built. I have seen a couple of sheds just like mine, complete with tin chimney for the fireplace. My chimney and fireplace has been pulled out now.

Stuart. Air would be possible. I am going to run a line across to the carport under main roof so a long hose would reach the rest of the house. I had not thought about an air ratchet. The air drill would not have the torque for screwing but would probably do for drilling with care. I have snapped off drill bits trying to drill holes for screws. The jam in the wood and just snap. Probably clog up with shavings. An air ratchet would have a half inch square drive. I would have to find an adapter to 1/4 inch hex drive. I have tried sockets/spanners but they are not the same and slip. I think the tek screw bits are tapered so the screw jams in tight. Yes I am oiling the screws. I use my oil can, jam the nozzle in the hole and give it a squirt. Plenty of oil.

Wm460. I doubt it would last the first screw. I have tried a similar unit and it was destroyed very quickly.

Roger. I think I know what you mean. I do remember seeing a device that had a similar angled head sticking out. Problem was it had about 4 heads. It was genetically defected. I am not making fun. I actually saw this device. The idea was to have different bits in each head so instead of changing them you just turned the head around as required. At the time I thought it was over the top and not strong enough. I don't know about the one you refer to as unfortunately a quick search on Google only turned up spelling mistakes from all over the world and mention of Dr Who's Sonic Scewdriver, for Xmas.

Dean

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

It must have been much easier when the wood was new as there are nails in it. I think the house was built from locally milled timber

Reminds me of story my father tells. He says all house plans used to spec full seasoned hardwood, which was never used. Owner builds around the corner from them in the 50's got the frame up and ran out of money for around 12 months. Every nail hole from then on had to be predrilled. What fun!

Having no idea what you are trying to do. Could you use a steel plate to move the screws to a place that is easy to get at?

Stuart

I own own a Milwaikee angle device. It takes 1/4 hex bits, secured by a sliding sleeve. I like it, but I have only used it in benign timbers like local pine, driving Festool hex shanked bits. It aeems sturdy enough for battery drill levels of torque; i expect that it would hold up to driving screws into generous pilot holes no worries.

Festool seela a right angle attachment which might fit other drills. I cannot say if it is any more robust.

I just now examined the Milwaulkee unit critically...it is better than its price would suggest. If it was a metal working tool with this degree of refined finish etc it would be more money.

The only other device that couples small dimension with high torque are the pneumatique tools already suggested.

Good luck with it

Greg

I have a makita angle drill that comes in handy for that stuff. For screwing, I have a 1/4" socket set that I mount a hex drive bit in. Slow, but does the job. Lubricate the screws with normal soap - it does help having driven screws into Jarrah.

Michael

The best attachment I know of is this:
Metabo Angle Drill and Screwdriving Attachment Demo - YouTube
The Metabo Right Angle Drill Attachment (31078) has been arond for a long time and proven its worth. This is just one place that sells it, at a good price:
31078 Metabo Right Angle Drill Attachment | Get Tools Direct

If this attachment is not strong enough, you need a GOOD dedicated angle drill. Something like this one will cost about 3 times more:
WBE700 Metabo 705W Electronic Angle Drill | eBay

With Wabeco, make sure the sticker on the machine still says clearly "made in Germany". Some tools like their cordless drill are now made in China too. Chris

I have been using the Milwaukee for 8 -10 years it has screwed thousands of 8g self drilling screws into light steel 2-3mm thick have used on old jarrah framing successfully by fitting a hex drill bit first it drove in the 14g bugles no problems plus many other screw and drilling jobs. I did manage to kill one very early on by using an impact driver on too high a setting other than that its certainly a permanent addition to my tool kit on the job

Originally Posted by Michael G

I have a makita angle drill that comes in handy for that stuff. For screwing, I have a 1/4" socket set that I mount a hex drive bit in. Slow, but does the job. Lubricate the screws with normal soap - it does help having driven screws into Jarrah.

Michael

You just reminded me that I recently used a socket like you said. I had forgotten. Thanks. The Milwaulkee unit is one I have looked at but was unsure about it due to price as per my original post. So I over quoted a b.it LOL. All I know is that it was more money than I wanted to test to destruction. I have used soap before and might improve matters a bit but it is fiddly which is why I went to oil. Maybe I should mash some with water into a container to the consistency of goo. Or put it in an oil can. I wonder if liquid hand cleaner would work as well. I have some syringes that could be used to squirt it in.

Stuart. I am attaching steel brackets to the facia of my house for a pergola. The facia is attached to the frame with nails driven into the end of the rafter/frame member. Due to this it is not very secure after 60 years. In places I can move the facia in and out by hand. I have already done this for a verandah, a total of 16m on 2 sides. The steel brackets are made by me out of angle to provide a support from the rafter to the rear of the facia. Anything I attach to the facia is then connected by bolts thru the facia into the bracket behind. I welded nuts to the bracket and predrilled the facia so I can put the bolts in later.

The difficulty with this job requiring the angle drive is that my house has the eaves set lower than the ceiling height. The rafters extend out past the wall and the eave is attached to the end of the rafter back to the wall. There is limited space between rafters. In some places there is extra framing members reducing the space even further. The original brackets were bolted along the rafter. It took a long time just drilling the holes. I decided it would be much easier to use tek screws as the drilling would be easier and it would be cheaper all round.

I used an angle drive to drill some of the holes but it did not last long. It was one of those ones sold for between $15 and $50, usually orange plastic with a small chuck on output. The problem with this was that it got hot and melted the housing enough for the gears to unmesh. At the time I looked at the bits and thought that the internals were fine and looked pretty strong. Now if only I had a mill. I guess I threw the bits out.

Com_VC

Sorry I missed your question before.

Which usa ones were $170

As above I maybe over quoted a bit. I think I have seen a different brand that did quote specs including the torque it was capable of which sounded very impressive at the time but this was some time ago and a lot has happened since then. I claim poor memory due to encroaching age. Not what it used to be. Whatever I saw it was too expensive for me, to test to destruction on the off chance. Its one thing to give specs but can you imagine taking it back and trying to explain that you have tested the application by accepted standard methods and the torque applied to the tool was definitely within spec. Pi*s off they would say!

I need to get ready to go into town and pick up my Dial Indicator.

Dean

Yes, use a little bit of water to make it gooey. I have an old vitamin bottle that I have a small sliver of soap in and put in a dribble of water when I'm using it for that purpose.

Michael

Dean,
I'm trying to picture how you are accessing the rafters to drill the holes. Have you removed the soffit lining and are working from underneath?

I did exactly what you are doing to an old house that was also made from incredibly hard wood. I removed the old soffit lining and the rotten fascia board. That gave me good access to the ends of the rafters. Then I fitted brackets and new fascia. A string line keeps it all nice and straight.

The timber on my house was so hard it would clog the drill bit on every hole. I had to pick out the glazed wood from the flutes with a pick almost every time. These Smart Bit replacement bits have a special shallow flute angle which doesn't clog nearly as badly as a standard twist drill bit:
Smart Bit | Replacement Bits | Packet of 5

Chris