Thread: Z axis stop Drill/Mil

Hi Mike,
Are you after a stop or something that will measure or both.
The simplest ones are a thread rod and a collar connected to the quill. I have some here on drills that have a milled slot cut down the length and a small rule in their.
You would then have to bolt a block to the head for the thread rod to go through.

Dave

Dave

I had a look: and mine has a cheap rule scale on the head face with a threaded rod inside with an arrow that goes up and down as you turn a knurled nut on the outside .its supposed to give you an idea of where you are . I can probably modify that setup and turn it into a stop . Sorry if I confused everyone, I was talking about a stop really .

No problem with the question, I just wanted to know which one to help you out on.
I have seen your type mill and nearly bought one years ago, but I am not familiar with that part of them. Do you have a picture?
Just had another thought, I will look at the Grizzly online manual to give me a better idea of how it's set up, hopefully it's the same.

Dave
PS
I know Fred (Bigshed) on here has one like yours
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/new-dm45-mill-129991/

Thats the one . I will take a few pics tomorrow .MIKE

Going by this manual Q is the quill depth scale on page 5.
http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g0484_m.pdf

Dave

That's right Dave . Mine is virtually the same except the headstock crank is on the left on mine. Q and P are the bits . I was reading the manual that came with mine . The tolerences allowed for the various parts are not that impressive . The Inspectors report in the back has hand written measurments . EG ..the spindle runout tolerance is .015 near the nose and .02 at a distance of 100 from the nose ..Not sure if they are talking about metric or imperial ! I think it's metric, so it may be OK . if its imperial then its terrible ! Mike PS I noticed it has hand scraped ways on the Y axis ..or they may be faked..I'm not sure . I cannot see the X axis ways as they are hidden.

Hi Mike,
Don't believe the test report they are all pretty much the same for each machine. I think they pay to have someone sit at a desk and fill them out, though I have had some that where colour photo copied signature and all.
The scraping you see is probably surface ground, then scraped over to to give it some oil pockets and to look like it has been done properly. Or it could even have been milled.
Here is my test report, I scanned it the other day for a guy another forum with the same mill as yours having troubles.


And here is some of the scraping on the ram support one mine.
I bet the most if not all guys at the scraping class did better than this the first day.


Dave

Roger that . I suspect it depends on which factory made them. I think mine is a Taiwanese one which are supossed to be better in terms of quailty control.check this site.......................Swarfcraft - The fine art of swarf making

Nice site, if that is yours.
I am no expert, but that way looks like it is surface ground with some random flaking for oil pockets. If I remember right Rays mill on the X axis was like that as well.
I just went and had a look and it has
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/hm...ml#post1149602

Where did you buy that mill from? I see Titan machinery have the industrial hobbies copy they are selling, with the big collar head and the 1 meter table.

You are right about the Taiwanese being better, but I don't think they would scape all the mating surfaces as it would cost them to much.

Dave

No it's not my site................he's in New Zealand I think

Just noticed that.

Dave

Hi Dave,

Sorry for the slight off-topic diversion...

Yes my mill was the same, ground ways, then badly flaked.

That site linked to called these (below) scraped ways, they aren't, it's just a bit of random flaking, not even very well done.. Supposed to retain oil.


image from.. Swarfcraft - The fine art of swarf making


Here is some practice power flaking that we did at the class, that's a bit more like what flaking should look like, especially
the bit at the bottom, which is flaked at 45 degrees, then crossed with another pass at 45 degrees the other way.



Not 100% sure if it's always crossed, like the lower section, but flaking is always quite deep gouges, for oil retention.

Not to be confused with "frosting" which is a purely decorative patterning put on over scraping, like cross hatching or chevron patterns.

Regards
Ray

Thanks for that Ray

This scraping business is fascinating . Especially as they haven't yet invented a machine to do it as well as a human does Mike

i Mike,
I was looking for something and came across these, they may help you out, so I thought I would post them.
Quill DRO for DM45 mill - The Home Shop Machinist & Machinist's Workshop Magazine's BBS

Added Z Axis DRO to RF45 Clone

Dave