Thread: thoughts on bandsaws

I've no idea what the BS-7 is like, but at $300 that's around 50% more than the BS-5. Bigger blades mean more money when replacing them, I'd do some research on blade availability, prices, tooth selection, etc, and then you can do a comparison between the two and then include consumables/accessories in the comparison. I think a suds pump is around the $130 mark, the complete system including tank around another $100 on top of that. If cost is an issue you could always buy H&F's gravity coolant system or make your own, they are simple and work well, as long as you don't mind swapping the tanks around occasionally. Alternatively you could make your own coolant system using a generic pump of some sort, a pond pump or a washing machine pump, plenty have done that including myself.

Hi texx, I have had 2 of the 6 X 4 band saws. The first one was sold with the business and the second I still have, it's getting close to 10 years old, and not a problem with it apart from the drive wheel having to be built up due to wearing the corner off, causing the blade to come off. It still has the original bearings, the back bearing is due to be changed shortly as it is starting to groove. Once the machine is set up correctly it won't give you a problem. The blades I use are Bi Metal in 24 t for solid and thick and 32 t for sheet metal and the like. Don't waste money on the carbon steel as they will last about 20 cuts, while the Bi Metals will last at least 1000 cuts. My machine is set up with the front and rear guides at the widest possible, and left there, as I've found that moving them causes it to go out of square vertically. I don't use coolant as the blades don't go fast enough to get hot.
Mods I've done, is mount onto a decent frame using 50 X 50 X 3 angle, with more support at the base to the rear, at least level with the rear of the motor, as they will over balance otherwise. A 45 degree spacer block to save resetting the angle block which is time consuming, this block also has a nut welded to it for use with a stop bar, the angle block also has one attached for the same thing.
Under the cutting edge is a Y shaped 50 mm wide funnel, to catch swarf, this starts where the bearings make the blade square and finishes at the rear so that when used vertical it catches swarf also.
To assist cutting short pieces a plate with a piece of 1/2" X 7" all thread is used.
Kryn

I have got the BS7. Does the job with no fuss. I second the advise on bi-metal blades. They are worth the extra money.

Ken

i had already decides i would be using the bimetal blades because one of the first jobs for the saw is cutting up the steel to make a stack of qctp holders so thats a bit of cutting solid stuff. but i think i did read some where that the smaller wheels on the small saw were not kind on the bimetal blades ( dont know where i read that ) to tight an arc or some thing .

johno

Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore

. . .The blades I use are Bi Metal in 24 t for solid and thick and 32 t for sheet metal and the like.

24 TPI for solids seems a bit too high.

If I use 24 TPI carbon steel blades even with lube for solids. I would indeed only get about 20 cuts with a blade.

Instead for 3mm or more thickness of steel I use a 14 TPI carbon blade with a suds pump and get many hundreds of cuts before they start to slow down.
According to the chart below 14TPI is not supposed to be used on 3mm but my carbon steel blades seem to survive just fine if lube is used.

I use an 18TPI carbon for thinner stuff and with lube I can cut down to ~1mm thick steel without damaging blade.
If I din't have many cuts to make in stuff less than 3 mm I just add a 1/4" piece of hardwood to the vice along side the metal and that saves me from swapping the blade.

At the opposite end of the scale the 14TPI has made dozens of cuts in 100 mm diameter bar. It's slow but it gets there.
I keep meaning to try a 6TPI blade in some thicker stuff - has anyone done this - is it worth it?


If the right size blade is selected the feedback on Practical Machinist from a wide range of members is that bimetal blades last between 2 and 4 times longer. The annoying thing is that carbon steel blades used with coolant don't just stop they just get slower and slower and it's tempting to keep using them.

We have been using bimetal in the upright metal cutting BS at the mens shed and I have to admit it's taken everything the blokes have thrown at it. Just waiting for someone to try cutting some HSS or similar with it.

BTW just ordered couple of Bimetal bladea for the Band woodsawmill, 5.3m long blade, 50 mm wide 1.3"PT - VERY EXXY.

Originally Posted by texx

i think i did read some where that the smaller wheels on the small saw were not kind on the bimetal blades ( dont know where i read that ) to tight an arc or some thing.

That would have been me as my saw has titchy wheels on it. I find the quickest thing to blunt teeth is running into a bit of weld

Rule of thumb for blades is that you want a minimum of 3 teeth in the cut (any less and you run the risk of stripping teeth off). The rule of thumb for maximum is 10 teeth in the cut - no one really bothers with it but it is a good prompt when to change blades - remember the reason to have bigger teeth is that you can cut more before the tooth gullet is full, so using a finer blade won't hurt as such but could be slower. I also find that if the blade is free cutting there seems to be less likelihood of it not cutting straight.

Michael

been doing some more sniffing around and have found this one which is easier to get for me because i think i can get it in toowoomba . its more money but looks like a good thing .

RF128HDR .
http://www.rongfu.com/en/Light-Duty-...RF-128HDR.html
a quick search tells me trade tools may have them and i am in toowoomba every second wednesday ,
anyone here got one of these .

johno

I have an earlier model BS-7, I bought German bi-metals blades for $30. I've not worn my first blade out yet, though it is missing a few teeth at the join.
Great saw but I paid $400 second hand. Not only does it take up more room than a BS-5 but you have to allow room for the whole saw to move(or your infeed) to cut mitres. So it depends how you plan on setting things up.

I know Dave J didnt think much of Bi-metal blades on his BS-4.

Stuart

I had the basic model saw, but made and painted an MDF stand for it on casters...this became my bar storage which doubled the use of the floorspace. I bought a couple of bimetal blades for it, mounted one and used it probably four times a week for over a year and the first blade still cut like a new one.

If you make a stand for the saw it pays to get/make/whatever a shallow metal tray to live below the cutting zone. This makes quick work of cleaning up all the cuttings and waste drip coolant (if used).

I cut lots of thin wall tube for which I use 18tpi blades, but only because. that is the finest I can get. I have used bi metal, but on thin walled tube it just ripped the teeth off, again 18 tpi was the finest I could get. Never seen 24/32 tpi blades in either carbon or bi metal, where do you get them?

so anyone in the forum got one of these .rf128hdr saws

In a nutshell when it cones to horiz metal bandsaws I reconoolant a mustswivel headLargest capacity u can fit/afford in the shop.then one can debate things like TPI of the bladeMe, well in the shop there are 3.

Originally Posted by sacc51

I cut lots of thin wall tube for which I use 18tpi blades, but only because. that is the finest I can get. I have used bi metal, but on thin walled tube it just ripped the teeth off, again 18 tpi was the finest I could get. Never seen 24/32 tpi blades in either carbon or bi metal, where do you get them?

Hi, you can get blades from Central Saw & knife Works at 59 Dunloran St, Edwardstown, phone 82778879, if you can't get there they will post them out, 24/32 are what is called a skip tooth I think.
Regards
Kryn

ok the rf128 hdr is now out of the running , cos no body seems to have a complete one in stock that i can get to .
so i have narrowed it down to either the BS-7L or the or the BS-5S and either way i buying it tomorrow morning ,question i am having trouble with is how much better is it to have a 3/4 inch blade over a 1/2 inch .
the smaller one has easy mitering but no coolant ( standard ) and a smaller cut, the bs7 has not easy mitering but bigger cut and coolant standard .the next one up in the range is more than i want to spend .also the bs5 is made in tiawan where as the bs7 is china .


johno