Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 30 of 30

Thread: MAKING V-BLOCKS

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Australia east coast
    Age
    71
    Posts
    1,469

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wheelinround View Post
    20 Mins away from me Peter I'll borrow them to finish the V-blocks when you've bought them LOL
    Fortunately (for me) there's nothing in that auction that makes me desperate to own it - I already own a number of sets of V blocks so definitely no interest in them. Mine are all in Hobart so you're SOL there, too.

    The taster is interesting though, so I'll see how the price goes on it.

    Off thread but - typical Grays auction. The Pacific lathe has a (5C I think) collet chuck fitted so they sell all the other chucks, tool holders etc separately to the lathe. Idiots.

    PDW

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    near Rockhampton
    Posts
    4,304

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by PDW View Post
    Off thread but - typical Grays auction. The Pacific lathe has a (5C I think) collet chuck fitted so they sell all the other chucks, tool holders etc separately to the lathe. Idiots.

    PDW
    It is an insolvency auction.... I doubt the receivers really could not give a stuff, they get paid first even if no one else does...
    Light red, the colour of choice for the discerning man.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    North Of The Boarder
    Age
    68
    Posts
    16,794

    Default

    No I haven't given up or ditched the project just other things taken precedent.


    Anyhow mate was here this morning and brought with him a little gift, if it was to suitable and would work it was mine.

    This has sat in the cupboard at his work for 10 years never been used. Ken cleaned it up as it looked manky?.....oiled etc.


    20mm to high and thats with the swivel base removed Ken suggested a few things, I looked at everything, every which way sadly I handed it back to Ken

    Still the offer was to borrow it if need be if I could use it it was mine sadly it will not fit the Myford
    if I finally given in I can take the V-block in and Ken will use vice on their Bridgeport. I have not given up yet.


    Remembering my aim is to do this on the Myford ML7 using the vertical mill and what I have etc.

    edited to alter my wording to clear matters up.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by wheelinround; 2nd August 2014 at 06:00 PM. Reason: To clear up what I typed a little

  5. #19
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge SA
    Posts
    3,339

    Default

    What a BUGGA it didn't fit.
    Kryn

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    N.W.Tasmania
    Posts
    703

    Default

    Hi there Wheelinround, This link to Harold Halls site where he makes a small V block, may have some useful tips for you if the job still has to be done. You may have to make some accessories first, but HH only uses his lathe in order to make both an angle plate and also 'V' blocks. As others have said, it would be easier to just go and buy one, but where is the challenge and the learning experience in doing that?

    Machining a Vee Block 01

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    3,149

    Default

    That is a nice looking vice - I have a soft spot for NEWS as well, so if ever it needs a new home...
    Back to the main issue.
    What about something like this?
    V block (Large).jpg

    Attach the V block blank to a bar bolted between two pieces of angle, with a round piece for support. (Better still, make the bar wide enough to have two tapped holes in the end, but still have the other bar for support). Carefully mill out the large V. The cutter should make sure it is 90 degrees and careful layout should get you close to symmetrical. Once you have the large V, it can be used to position for the smaller V. To help clamp the blank down, run down the non-v sides with a cutter so that a rod can be located in the groove and used to clamp.
    If the vertical slide you have is not 140mm wide you can mount all this on a backing plate - not an issue because it will just add thickness in the direction of the lathe bed.

    Michael

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    North Of The Boarder
    Age
    68
    Posts
    16,794

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ropetangler View Post
    Hi there Wheelinround, This link to Harold Halls site where he makes a small V block, may have some useful tips for you if the job still has to be done. You may have to make some accessories first, but HH only uses his lathe in order to make both an angle plate and also 'V' blocks. As others have said, it would be easier to just go and buy one, but where is the challenge and the learning experience in doing that?

    Machining a Vee Block 01
    RT have Harold's site and email addy and have checked that one out yes its looking that way making stuff to make stuff to make stuff LOL its like a dream come true for me ............other would say a nightmare.

    Your right there I might just surprise myself

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    North Of The Boarder
    Age
    68
    Posts
    16,794

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    That is a nice looking vice - I have a soft spot for NEWS as well, so if ever it needs a new home...
    Back to the main issue.
    What about something like this?
    V block (Large).jpg

    Attach the V block blank to a bar bolted between two pieces of angle, with a round piece for support. (Better still, make the bar wide enough to have two tapped holes in the end, but still have the other bar for support). Carefully mill out the large V. The cutter should make sure it is 90 degrees and careful layout should get you close to symmetrical. Once you have the large V, it can be used to position for the smaller V. To help clamp the blank down, run down the non-v sides with a cutter so that a rod can be located in the groove and used to clamp.
    If the vertical slide you have is not 140mm wide you can mount all this on a backing plate - not an issue because it will just add thickness in the direction of the lathe bed.

    Michael

    Michael serious consideration will be given to this as I already mentioned when angle was brought up before it sits with the block and daily I look at them both and ponder a while. Then run things through my head sometimes to often.

    The other method as someone else stated was use a registration block tun the mill to 45 deg and vertically cut as far as I can then move the remaining area into play and finish the cuts.

    Either way I have decided to remove as much waste via the 4x6 in vertical mode first then set up to finish off best I can as accurate as I can.

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,340

    Default

    When setting up to make accurate V blocks you only really need to consider two things; that the angle of the V is 90 degrees, and that if you flip it, it still needs to be 90 degrees

    You can make very accurate V blocks using nothing more than a dial indicator to setup.

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    North Of The Boarder
    Age
    68
    Posts
    16,794

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pete F View Post
    When setting up to make accurate V blocks you only really need to consider two things; that the angle of the V is 90 degrees, and that if you flip it, it still needs to be 90 degrees

    You can make very accurate V blocks using nothing more than a dial indicator to setup.
    Peter my problem is length of the block 125mm using the Myford vertical milling attachment travel is 80mm positioning and holding is also a factor using what I have at hand. I know its doing it the hard way but its also the way it would have been attacked by someone starting out with the first ever V-bock I guess.

    Every suggestion that has been made here is being considered believe me.

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,340

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wheelinround View Post
    Peter my problem is length of the block 125mm using the Myford vertical milling attachment travel is 80mm positioning and holding is also a factor using what I have at hand. I know its doing it the hard way but its also the way it would have been attacked by someone starting out with the first ever V-bock I guess.

    Every suggestion that has been made here is being considered believe me.
    Oh bugger, you give up so easily Here's me hoping you'd have a good crack at it if I gave the appropriate hints. You want to do this Old School on a lathe as a learning experience? I guess the appropriate guidance is then to get you to devise the answer yourself .... teach a man to fish and all that stuff

    I'm not sure about your travels, but I looked at the picture of your square setup and I don't foresee any problem in fixturing to mill. I'll give you another hint, and this is a game the whole family can play, your milling slide has two 2 slots. One can be used for T nuts, the other used for .......

    I think too many people get sucked in to think they need to rush out and buy this and that (and I'm at least as guilty as the next person for that), but forget (or never learnt) basics, especially for the Vertically Challenged milling machine owners amongst us!! I believe the most difficult part about machining isn't the actual machining, it's problem solving the fixturing. I'm personally just finishing up 3 little engines, PIA models to give to friends, I can't believe how much work goes in to them and how accurate it needs to be (ever tried machining 1.5 mm gudgeon pins. Or reducing 2 mm cap screws?). Without doubt the most difficult part by far was working out how to accurately HOLD such weeny items, yet be able to work on them. As much as I'm a bit over them, as it's been an onerous time burden I can't really afford, by sticking to the drawings precisely I learnt much more about machining that I ever would have if I'd "cheated" eg friction driving work, trepanning, bizarre tool grinding, etc etc etc. In other words ... you'll figure it out

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    North Of The Boarder
    Age
    68
    Posts
    16,794

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pete F View Post
    Oh bugger, you give up so easily Here's me hoping you'd have a good crack at it if I gave the appropriate hints. You want to do this Old School on a lathe as a learning experience? I guess the appropriate guidance is then to get you to devise the answer yourself .... teach a man to fish and all that stuff

    I'm not sure about your travels, but I looked at the picture of your square setup and I don't foresee any problem in fixturing to mill. I'll give you another hint, and this is a game the whole family can play, your milling slide has two 2 slots. One can be used for T nuts, the other used for .......

    I think too many people get sucked in to think they need to rush out and buy this and that (and I'm at least as guilty as the next person for that), but forget (or never learnt) basics, especially for the Vertically Challenged milling machine owners amongst us!! I believe the most difficult part about machining isn't the actual machining, it's problem solving the fixturing. I'm personally just finishing up 3 little engines, PIA models to give to friends, I can't believe how much work goes in to them and how accurate it needs to be (ever tried machining 1.5 mm gudgeon pins. Or reducing 2 mm cap screws?). Without doubt the most difficult part by far was working out how to accurately HOLD such weeny items, yet be able to work on them. As much as I'm a bit over them, as it's been an onerous time burden I can't really afford, by sticking to the drawings precisely I learnt much more about machining that I ever would have if I'd "cheated" eg friction driving work, trepanning, bizarre tool grinding, etc etc etc. In other words ... you'll figure it out
    Ah yes vertical mill rotates 45 deg laterally cross slide travel is in excess of what I need. Mounting the block at 45 degrees is the reason I and Michael came up with such and idea using angle iron.

    Clamping is my other concern but as you say I have to sort it out. Its simple I know the fish slap hasn't happened as yet LOL.

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,340

    Default

    Hmmm, I'm not sure I follow you there, but no matter, here's another suggestion. I'll number the steps to make it easier to follow:

    1) Take the angle iron and fix it to the slide so the apex is facing the chuck. Mill a small flat on the apex, as much as you can.
    2) Run an indicator along the face of your "table" and ensure it's perpendicular to the spindle. Also run the indicator along the T-slot to ensure it's horizontal.
    3) Set the middle of the T-slot exactly at centre height, you can do that by sweeping a dial indicator top and bottom of the slot, it will be near as it needs to be, surely good enough for Government work anyway!
    4) Take your square stock and put one corner in the T-slot, the opposite corner will be facing your lathe, put angle on the corner facing the lathe and use the angle's corner you faced as a secure pad for the clamps. Leave the clamps loose at this stage.
    5) Fit a face plate to your lathe if you have one, if not take the jaws out of your chuck so it will provide a flat surface. Bring the carriage up to the faceplate and rotate the work back and forth so it "sweeps" the plate. The point at which it just touches the plate at a tangent will be exactly 45 degrees. An even more accurate alternative is to use a dial indicator, but you will need a flat probe for that, and I'm guessing you won't have one. You should nevertheless be able to eyeball it pretty darn accurately just by eye. As an aside, rounded probes are generally used to indicate flat work, and flat probes are generally used to indicate round work, it's something that seems to be lost on most people and they make life much more difficult as a result. Even though it's a square corner, it's moving in an arc, hence effectively a single point of a circle. Anyway, once you've found that point, snug everything up and go at it. The milling attachment will form the 90 degrees you need.

    I must openly confess I have never done a setup like that as I just use my V blocks, but I do take full advantage of my T slots and if I were in this situation with minimum equipment available that's how I would solve your problem. Depending on how much travel you have, you may need to either reposition clamps, or even the whole job and mill it in stages, in the case of the former, as always attach your new clamps before taking off the old. I think this will be a secure fixture to the rigidity needed for lathe milling.

    Pete

    Edit: I should add that despite this being enumerated like this, it may not be the most appropriate given the equipment available. It was more a case of suggesting thinking outside the box, and using a basic knowledge of geometry to overcome a problem. In this case you could even dispense with the dial indicator if you didn't have one, and instead turn up a spigot for a slip fit in the T slot to centre it. So with no equipment other than the lathe, machine up V blocks with a perfect right angle, which is in itself accurate to within a few degrees. On the other hand if you have something like a digital angle gauge, then by all means use it to set the 45 degrees. It's all a case of what you have.

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    North Of The Boarder
    Age
    68
    Posts
    16,794

    Default

    Peter you have covered a lot in that post thanks. I will be re-reading all the posts again soon and setting it up to complete the project.

    I have had many ideas myself even before marking the block out some long forgotten

    It will happen its not that I haven't taken in whats been posted its time factor and other projects in wood.

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    North Of The Boarder
    Age
    68
    Posts
    16,794

    Default

    Got around to rough cutting out the V's today first full day in the garage for weeks.

    Used the 4x6 in vertical, spotted the saw blade had a break lucky I had a new spare 1/2 way through 2nd last cut.

    Might be last photos for some time as camera battery door broke.
    Attached Images Attached Images

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Similar Threads

  1. Toy Blocks
    By Quinny01 in forum TOY MAKING
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 19th May 2014, 07:50 PM
  2. Making magnetic blocks
    By Ueee in forum METALWORK FORUM
    Replies: 24
    Last Post: 18th October 2013, 02:40 PM
  3. Frieze blocks or Bird blocks in a hip roof
    By Blocklayer in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 19th January 2011, 12:14 PM
  4. Stock question regarding making chopping blocks
    By 44Ronin in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 9th March 2009, 09:14 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •