Thread: Brass Oiler... Will this work?

Not wanting to put anyone off making something.. but.. sewing machine oiler? https://www.google.com/search?q=sewi...=1920&bih=1044

Certainly have a go, but I don't think it will behave as you hope. If the hole is only 1.5mm diameter and the walls not thin enough to flex I don't think gravity will be enough to get the oil out. I'd suggest scouring the second hand shops and trying to find something like this -
oil-can1 (Medium).jpg or the sewing machine oilers that Richard has mentioned

Michael

Quick response as always

Michael, you've confirmed what I was thinking and that picture is exactly the kind of thing I had looked at buying, before I had a not so bright light bulb moment

Thanks all.


Thx
Jon

Why not try a Hypodermic needle (syringe).
You can put a drop or two exactly where you need it.

Roger

I like Rogers idea of a Hypodermic needle (syringe), you won't need the needle though. These can be gotten from your local Vet, that's where I get mine. They have a multitude of uses.
If you want to make one, the sides need to be a lot thinner approx .6 mm, plans were in MEW not long ago.
Kryn

re the original question. 1.5 - 2.0mm wall thickness is really a bit exessive for this. As you dont have any sizes on your sketch, I'm making a guess here at around 40 or 50mm dia X about 20 thick?
You wouldnt need any thicker than .5mm I reckon. I'd be inclined to find a bit of thin wall copper or brass tube about that dia and make some brass ends for it. If you were really keen you could turn a form on your lathe that would be the size and shape of the inside of the end cap and then spin the cap out of hard brass sheet. I would think you would want a slight dome on the end caps that will spring back when squeezed. You want the end caps to just slip over your copper or brass tube.
Make the spigot that your nozzle screws on, and fit to the tube first and then just soft solder the end caps on. You could easily do that with a big electric soldering iron or a "heat up with the blow torch" type. A lot less chance of destroying your job than with the high temps that silver soldering or brazing requires.

Having said all that, I have never tried spinning on the lathe though its on the "to do" list for one day.

regards

bollie7

oops - I didnt read Kryns post throughly re the wall thickness, but you can see we are both on the same track.

Originally Posted by bollie7

re the original question. 1.5 - 2.0mm wall thickness is really a bit exessive for this. As you dont have any sizes on your sketch, I'm making a guess here at around 40 or 50mm dia X about 20 thick?
You wouldnt need any thicker than .5mm I reckon. I'd be inclined to find a bit of thin wall copper or brass tube about that dia and make some brass ends for it. If you were really keen you could turn a form on your lathe that would be the size and shape of the inside of the end cap and then spin the cap out of hard brass sheet. I would think you would want a slight dome on the end caps that will spring back when squeezed. You want the end caps to just slip over your copper or brass tube.
Make the spigot that your nozzle screws on, and fit to the tube first and then just soft solder the end caps on. You could easily do that with a big electric soldering iron or a "heat up with the blow torch" type. A lot less chance of destroying your job than with the high temps that silver soldering or brazing requires.

Having said all that, I have never tried spinning on the lathe though its on the "to do" list for one day.

regards

bollie7

oops - I didnt read Kryns post throughly re the wall thickness, but you can see we are both on the same track.

The sides should be flat I would have thought. If you make them a dome, first you have provided resistance to flex and then if you push too hard there would be a tendency for the dome(s) to reverse, making a mess.

I have bought syringes from the chemist in up to 50ml sizes. We used to use them for dosing in aquariums and they can be handy for dosing of other pets. We have never had problems at the chemist. This is a rural location tho.

Dean

I use a needle oiler bottle for the smaller fiddly bits....obtainable from most places but usually get mine from Brownells in the US - 3 small bottles in a pack for US$8 - plus freight etc...works out quite cheap in long run as they will last yonks. Mostly put a different grade oil in each one for different purposes and when I order them, put them in with other stuff to save freight seeing they are quite small and light - also come with caps that actually fit and stop any leaks if they fall over.

I find the plastic they are made from resistant to most solvents but just hard enough to get one or two drops out easily and with such a small outlet, can get into tight areas others don't. Ideal for my purposes and never broken one yet.....doubt they would be any good for the thicker type oils as outlets too small but they do handle Tellus Oil 32 grade well as that's about the heaviest I use through one. Others are lighter oils like Inox and light machine oils which they are brilliant with....

quick link here http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...prod44434.aspx

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

I have bought syringes from the chemist in up to 50ml sizes. <snip>We have never had problems at the chemist. This is a rural location tho.

EBay is littered with companies selling syringes. Delivered to your door cheap.

One thing to look at are "Drawing up" or "Blunt" needles. random EBay sample> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DRAWING-U...item20dcd87b45

I use them for decanting lots of things, filling my fountain pen, scraping inks, oil, grease. Real handy.

Regards Phil.

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

The sides should be flat I would have thought. If you make them a dome, first you have provided resistance to flex and then if you push too hard there would be a tendency for the dome(s) to reverse, making a mess.
Dean

Somewhere I have an oil can similar to the one that Micheal G posted the pic of. It has a slightly domed brass bottom that allows you to press it to dispense the oil. It always springs back to the correct position. It makes a funny "oink - click" sound as its pressed. Thats the sort of thing I had in mind though I dont really know how that is achieved.

regards
bollie7

Originally Posted by bollie7

Somewhere I have an oil can similar to the one that Micheal G posted the pic of. It has a slightly domed brass bottom that allows you to press it to dispense the oil. It always springs back to the correct position. It makes a funny "oink - click" sound as its pressed. Thats the sort of thing I had in mind though I dont really know how that is achieved.

regards
bollie7

Often used for shearing combs and cutters. Maybe the limited orifice prevents them from moving too far. I have used them. I think the metal may be springy.

Dean

The dome is so there is some flex to allow the oil to be pushed out. If it were flat you could not change the volume within the can as easily.

Michael