Cross Slide Threading Stop

**Anorak Bob** · 29th May 2011, 02:02 AM

When I refurbished my Waldown drill press I used spraying enamel. Took about a week to be dry enough for reassembly of the components. Whilst the castings could have been more easily brush painted (no masking), the belt guards called for spray. The enamel was applied over primer. In reality I can't assess the durability of the product I used because it is applied to surfaces not subject to the scouring of swarf or the impact of tools etc. The drill's table is a new powder coated replacement. That finish is durable but unfortunately, not many of us have access to our own powder coating facilities.

When I started painting the Hercus mill, I used a 2 pack iso-cyanate finish along with a Sundstrom respirator and appropriate filters. That paint has worn off in places as a result of repeated cleaning and has suffered chipping from impact.

I wonder whether the soft primer is more a a detriment to durability than the suggested aid to adhesion.

I have had good results with brush on White Knight applied directly to cast iron. The rough cast surface obviously provides a good key for the paint. One of the blokes at work has a cast iron hydraulic base for his drawing board. He painted the base about ten years ago, satin black with a White Knight rattle can. Knowing him there would have been little, if indeed any, surface preparation. He would have painted directly over the original silver hammertone. Other than scuffing from his cheap leather shoes, the paint looks as good as when it was first applied.

A far as stamped numbers go, to give yourself a chance of alignment, leave Young Brothers stamps alone. The numerals are not located in the same position on each stamp. The stamp in the photo above is from a Hanson set made in Taiwan.

BT

**RayG** · 29th May 2011, 02:06 AM

Originally Posted by Greg Q

Is Bob...Is Good!

Couldn't have said it better...

Hi Ken,

That's a tct threading insert turned on it's side for scribing the lines, and the number spacing looks like the punching jig is indexed a fixed number of degrees to set the number spacing equally either side of the longer scribed lines. I'm sure BT can correct me if I've got it wrong.

Nice work as always, still not totally convinced about the color, but it does look "factory".

Regards
Ray

**Anorak Bob** · 29th May 2011, 02:24 AM

Originally Posted by neksmerj

Hi AB,

That is fantastic. I presume you scribed the graduations using a TCT insert mounted on the saddle of your lathe. I'm a bit dumb, trying to decipher the photos.

How did you space the number stamps, say No.10, ie a one and a zero?

Just love that green colour, together with machined bare metal, it's a great combination.

Did you move to WA so you wouldn't be pestered with the likes of us Southerners. Good move!

Ken

KJ, I used my threading tool mounted sideways in the tool post, for the scribing.

To locate zero, I did a trial using a piece of masking tape located on the cast iron where I intended the zero to be . Gentle pressure on the stamp marked the tape. This technique allowed for fine adjustment, ie repeated trials. When the correct stamp position in relation to the scribed line, was established, I stamped all the zeros. Then I stamped the remaining numbers using the same tape trial technique. Bit hard to describe.

In the thread about tool storage, I included a photo just for you.

If I didn't enjoy the pestering I wouldn't be on this forum.

p.s. I needn't have bothered laboring over the typing , Ray has said it all.

**pipeclay** · 29th May 2011, 08:41 AM

Excuse my lack of knowledge with leather shoes but why do the cheap ones scuff surfaces,and if known what price would need to be paid for the non scuffing type?

**Stustoys** · 29th May 2011, 12:38 PM

BT,
Did you have any trouble chipping the edge off the carbide? My experience with carbide is that if its in a cut and you try and back it up the edge comes off. Of course I've only done this twice. lol

Stuart

**Col2310** · 29th May 2011, 12:47 PM

Originally Posted by pipeclay

Excuse my lack of knowledge with leather shoes but why do the cheap ones scuff surfaces,and if known what price would need to be paid for the non scuffing type?

Pipeclay
You have a hide to ask that question.

Ask your wife,girlfriend,partner etc. They know all about shoes

Col

**Anorak Bob** · 29th May 2011, 02:46 PM

Originally Posted by Stustoys

BT,
Did you have any trouble chipping the edge off the carbide? My experience with carbide is that if its in a cut and you try and back it up the edge comes off. Of course I've only done this twice. lol

Stuart

Stu, I managed to do it 360 times on the base without mishap. Bear in mind, I would have only been cutting to a depth of maybe 4 thou. I have snapped the tips off other inserts doing things I shouldn't.

BT

**Anorak Bob** · 29th May 2011, 02:53 PM

Originally Posted by pipeclay

Excuse my lack of knowledge with leather shoes but why do the cheap ones scuff surfaces,and if known what price would need to be paid for the non scuffing type?

I dare say any shoes are good for scuffing, Peter. In this case the bloke, one of the directors, wouldn't have been wearing expensive shoes because he is a tight ar.e. I reckon he had his Mum sew up his pockets.

**RayG** · 29th May 2011, 04:05 PM

Originally Posted by Stustoys

BT,
Did you have any trouble chipping the edge off the carbide? My experience with carbide is that if its in a cut and you try and back it up the edge comes off. Of course I've only done this twice. lol

Stuart

I've done that, usually, when threading and stopping the lathe while it's in the cut and if the chip hasn't broken away, then, when you back up the tip of the threading insert snaps off. Lighter cuts perhaps?

Regards
Ray

**aametalmaster** · 29th May 2011, 04:21 PM

NICE....Bob

**Stustoys** · 29th May 2011, 04:33 PM

Originally Posted by RayG

I've done that, usually, when threading and stopping the lathe while it's in the cut and if the chip hasn't broken away, then, when you back up the tip of the threading insert snaps off. Lighter cuts perhaps?

Regards
Ray

Yes Ray just like that and backing a boring bar out of a bore with the mill off. I guess in both cases the cut could well have been much more then 0.004".

Bob , did you just go in and out with the crossslide or did you move the tool back at the end of each cut?

Stuart

**Anorak Bob** · 29th May 2011, 04:48 PM

I lost the end of my threading insert exactly as Ray described. The down side of not having a runout groove. It was when I was cutting metric threads by hand, using transposing gears.

Stu, when I scribed the graduations, I only advanced the tool then moved the saddle back away from the job. I have a micrometer saddle stop which makes life easy.

Bob.

**Stustoys** · 29th May 2011, 04:56 PM

Thanks BT,
One of these days I hope to do something similar

Stuart

Thread: Cross Slide Threading Stop

Thread Tools

Search Thread

Similar Threads

Metric cross slide screw.

sheraton A cross slide nut

South Bend/Hercus Cross slide nut

Cross-slide vise

Cutting thread and nut on cross slide

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions