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3rd February 2009, 07:31 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
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Best way to cut colourbond channel
Guys,
I have bought some of the plastic lattice kit from Stratco, here in WA. I need to cut the framework down in order to fit the location I need it for.
My question is how do I cut the metal channel , with relative ease, in good time, without damaging the colourbond coating and spoiling the look?
The only options I can come up with are Hacksaw ( slow and ugly non-square cuts) or Drop Saw ( fast, will give square cuts but will probably damage the finish.)
I only have 4 to cut so a Hacksaw is not out of the question, but I want to avoid it if practical.
Sterob.
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3rd February 2009 07:31 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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3rd February 2009, 08:05 PM #2GOLD MEMBER
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How much do you want to spend compared to the astetic value
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3rd February 2009, 08:50 PM #3
Gooday Sterob, I,ve cut heaps of cb channel while building an observatory lately--I used a bandsaw (metal cutting blade) with a suitable sized snug fitting scrap of timber slipped into the channel to give it support and strength while clamping, cut through the channel and timber at the same time, cuts nice and clean square etc.
You can use a hacksaw also
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3rd February 2009, 08:54 PM #4Awaiting Email Confirmation
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Dear Sterob,
If you've got an electric Compound Mitre Saw, have a close look at the blade on it, and see whether the teeth are leaning forwards or backwards (because some Mitre Saw Blades have backwards-leaning teeth, just like proper Metal-Cutting Blades...)
Given how thin the metal in question is, if the teeth on your Blade lean backwards, and there's - say... at least 36 of them - you could probably just cut the section in question with your Compound Mitre Saw. In terms of precautions, make sure you're wearing goggles, and clamp the metal tightly into the Saw upright (as in your photo) so that the sides don't squash in because of the clamp. If you can find a strip of timber about the same width as the distance between the two walls of the section, and pop it into the section between it's walls, that could be a real advantage because it would stop the walls from "chattering" during the cut. But take it very slowly when you're lowering the blade through the metal, and do a test cut near the end of the section first.
If the teeth on your Blade lean forwards (and you wouldn't mind an excuse to buy yourself a new Blade), you could try turning the Blade around so that the teeth now lean backwards. The only problem is that you might end up losing some of the teeth, because the cutting force is now applying a "pull" on the solder that bonds the teeth to the Blade's disk, rather than a "push"... Take all of the same precautions as above - especially the wearing of the goggles, because the teeth can well and truly come off, and probably will if you end up turning the Blade around.
In either scenario, don't skip the clamping bit either, because when Mitre Saw teeth "bite" for some reason (usually loosely held timber, but in this case "chattery" metal...), Bad Things can happen very quickly. If you've got a Bench Grinder, and you've had a "Close Call" when grinding something without using the Tool Rest, you'll sort of know what I'm talking about...
Best Wishes, and Good Luck whichever way you do it.
Batpig.
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3rd February 2009, 09:05 PM #5
an angle grinder will cut it no problems. we cut heaps of colorbond roofing with the grinder and it dosent damage the paint.
www.carlweiss.com.au
Mobile Sawmilling & Logging Service
8" & 10" Lucas Mills, bobcat, 4wd tractor, 12 ton dozer, stihl saws.
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3rd February 2009, 09:37 PM #6SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks guys,
Some good ideas there.
"How much do you want to spend compared to the astetic value"
I've not thought about it in that respect. Quite willing to spend a couple hundred on a tool that will be useful for other times.
"I used a bandsaw (metal cutting blade)"
This may be an option although my bandsaw is quite small. I'd have to source a blade for it though.
"If you've got an electric Compound Mitre Saw"
I don't and don't have access to one.
"an angle grinder will cut it no problems."
I knew it would but I thought it would surely damage the paint. If my hand is steady enough, this may work also.
Thanks guys.
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3rd February 2009, 09:39 PM #7
it cuts it that quick that it dosent have time to heat up enough to damage the paint.
www.carlweiss.com.au
Mobile Sawmilling & Logging Service
8" & 10" Lucas Mills, bobcat, 4wd tractor, 12 ton dozer, stihl saws.
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4th February 2009, 09:09 AM #8
If you are going to use an angle grinder, use the thin (1.0mm?) cutoff disks. They generate less heat and leave a nice clean cut.
Cheers.
Vernon.
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Bite off more than you can chew and then chew like crazy.
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4th February 2009, 09:57 AM #9When sheets need to be cut on site the most suitable technique is with nibblers or power saws with metal cutting blades (tin snips can be used although they are difficult to use on profiled sheeting). The use of cutting discs and grinding wheels is not recommended as they generate very hot particles which can damage the coating.
BlueScope Steel recommends the use of cold cutting saw with appropriate blades."I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."
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4th February 2009, 10:46 AM #10
That is certainly the case with roofing, because you have a large area for the swarf to fall on (especially if cut insitu). It's not so much an issue with relatively thin channel - simply put a drop sheet over it and don't cut it in the presence of other (unprotected) colorbond.
Cheers.
Vernon.
__________________________________________________
Bite off more than you can chew and then chew like crazy.
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4th February 2009, 07:13 PM #11SENIOR MEMBER
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I might try the thin cutting discs first and hope I have a steady hand and cut it square. I think I'll practice on some scrap before I cut the real thing....
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4th February 2009, 08:44 PM #12Senior Member
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This is how I would do it. Try masking tape as a guide for the cut and to help protect the area adjacent to the cut. Slip a piece of soft timber the correct size of the slot into the channel before you tape it. That will prevent the thin material from vibrating. Use the 1mm discs and support the channel by clamping close to the point you are cutting.
Nev
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6th February 2009, 04:32 PM #13If you are going to use an angle grinder, use the thin (1.0mm?) cutoff disks. They generate less heat and leave a nice clean cut.
Fossil
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6th February 2009, 11:24 PM #14
might be time to invest in one of the el-cheapo angle-grinder jigs. Should be about the sort of job they'd be perfect for.
Chipslinger
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7th February 2009, 12:15 AM #15SENIOR MEMBER
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Yeah, I think I go with the very thin cutting blades. The jig is a good idea, but not sure I can get one in my small town. I'll have a look tomorrow.
Thanks guys.
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