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1st November 2014, 05:01 AM #31Intermediate Member
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It's not necessary to use a thin wheel. A fat wheel can be dressed by hand to the required shape. Remember that the angle need not be accurate. It can be any angle greater than than that of the bottom of the dovetail. You're only cleaning out the corner. The flat portion is already machined or ground.
Gene
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1st November 2014, 11:21 AM #32SENIOR MEMBER
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Yes and how do you propose dressing it? Please don't suggest holding a single point diamond to the wheel by hand and dressing in the angle!
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1st November 2014, 12:44 PM #33Cba
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It looks like the good old art of filing has been lost. At least the many answers seem to indicate that nobody feels to have the skill set to accurately file such a dovetail. Or the skills have been lost long ago by lack of practice.
The most difficult part is probably to file the dovetail straight and parallel. This can be simplified as above by first straight milling out as much as possible. Another trick would be to initially make the part 2 or 3 times as thick, file it, then mill off at both sides where the filed portions are most likely to be rounded. Or use both tricks combined.
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1st November 2014, 03:30 PM #34.
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Hey Chris,
As hard to believe as it may be, there was a time when I wielded a file or two. Don't ask what this is but the thing below was hand filed back when I was a student at WAIT. I still use my needle files. The orange boxed set of Favorites was purchased new in 1982 but my new favourite is the little No.6 cut barrette, still sporting its plastic overcoat. The die sinkers rifflers have also proven very handy over the years.
Bob
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1st November 2014, 08:43 PM #35.
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Close To Bowled Over.
I took the easiest option. Ground the teeth off a small file. I will spend a few minutes tomorrow in the corners of the dovetail with a needle file before it bathes in Blackfast.
BT
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2nd November 2014, 04:16 AM #36Intermediate Member
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2nd November 2014, 09:18 AM #37GOLD MEMBER
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Nice work Bob, as usual!
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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2nd November 2014, 10:22 PM #38SENIOR MEMBER
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Gene with due respect, everything you've said makes perfect theoretical sense. In practice however I have serious doubt that it will work as you suggest for all manner of reasons there's no point in enumerating here. I have just spent a very unpleasant hour or so going through various grinding wheels trying to find one that will hold a crisp edge, and even my hardest broke down rapidly. If you've successfully ground accurate dovetails in solid steel using the method you propose I'd say good luck to you.
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5th November 2014, 12:00 PM #39.
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A Postscript and a Reunion.
Sometimes having too much stuff leads to forgetting about some of the stuff you might have. Advanced years probably contribute.
About ten years ago I bought a Baty DTI on eBay UK and it came with the attachments pictured below. I did not know what they were intended to fit or their country of origin. I presumed they were Baty accessories but strangely the main column clamp didn't fit any of my stands and the dovetail clamp didn't really fit on any arms. It was too big to fit on the little magnetic base featured in this thread. I had the dovetail clamp poorly mounted ( too sloppy a fit ) on an Eclipse base. I had long forgotten that these components were originally together.
This morning I looked at an image in an online Tesa catalogue and it sunk in. It doesn't feature the fine adjustment but it allows the mounting of the Interapid and Mitutoyos by their 4mm shanks. The Mitutoyo DTIs are usually supplied with both 3/8" and 4mm shanks so by interchanging the arms on the little stand, I have even more flexibility.
BT
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