Thread: Cutting stainless flue

How thick is it? Could you use a nice sharp pair of tin snips?
It sounds like it will come out, you could always take it to the local sheet metal shop and get them to do it, as they have all the gear and tricks of the trade.
With the grinder you will get some colour change where it's cut, unless you are really careful to not let it get hot. Also there are stainless steel cutting disc's you can buy for your grinder.

Dave

Attachment 190863

Thanks for the response. Yes it comes out and it's pretty thin steel, maybe 1mm. Its an ilve so it would cost heaps to replace. I'm looking for someone who won't screw it up.

Danny

just a thought Danny ,would the two pieces of flue slide inside each other neat enough so you don't have to cut it to shorten it.

You could easily use a grinder with a 1mm disc just find a piece of flat bar that is nice and straight and use it as a guide, clamp it to the flue and run the grinder down the edge to keep it true, you will be able to use a piece of scotchbrite to remove any discolouration which should only be minimal if any being that the material is so thin, if it does discolour just make sure you polish it with the grain of the steel.

Brett

Thanks for the comments folks. Bluegum, no each of the pieces on its own it too long so I need to use just one cut down.

Tin snips is the best way but a grinder will do it, the biggest problem you will find is to get a nice finished edge/cut. You could cut it 5~10mm over sized and then bend the edge over have fun on the corners though...
Another option is cut it too size then with the off cuts make a folded capping(like fence capping)this will give the neatest pro looking finish.

I'd cut the bottom edge which I'm guessing will be obscured from view by the range hood. Fix a piece of mdf to the non-waste side of the cut line to provide a straight edge and to protect the flue cover from sparks (use double sided tape?) Use a thin cutting disc in the angle grinder using the mdf as a fence. Multiple light passes should minimise bluing and chatter. I've cut tiles many times using this method. Should work with metal.

Hey There,

Don't none of blokes watch Telly at 2.00 am, there is usually a guy selling the ' Australian Made' Professional Nibbler, that will do the job a treat.

That's what I'd be doing. Or get my mate at the Stainless steel shop to build another one.

HazzaB

I've got a nibbler, damn difficult to get a nice straight edge (maybe it was the beers) even with a guide and was only zinc steel, and forget going around the corners.

Basically if you need nice straight clean cuts like you have on the flue already then only options are best to worst; guillotine/bench shears/laser cutting/water jet/nibbler/hand shears/grinder/power hacksaw. Or something similar. Not all these are feasible cause of the bends.

A metal drop saw could work if you can cut it in once cut and stop it flexing. Possible to do it with a circular saw fitted with metal cutting disc, but you would need to make sure it can't flex, and use a decent guide.

Harry72 is on the money, you need to plan to be able to hide the areas if you do it yourself, unless you can access the right tools.

If you use hacksaw, hand grinder, hand shear, nibbler you will end up with an uneven edge with sharps and the only way I can see to fix that is sanding on a bench belt sander so that you end up with a reasonably level surface, or Harry72's suggestion.

Ring a sheet metal fabricator and see what they say its likely 3 straight cuts, and at the end you'll just need to file off the edge burr. Or they might be able to splay it out slightly and trim through bench shear.

If you dont need those side holes then a new part is 2 guillotine cuts and 4 bends ie pretty damn quick 20 minute job.