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Thread: Making a Drawbar
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18th July 2015, 03:29 PM #16SENIOR MEMBER
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Personally, I never use anything except Aquamet 22. First I machine the solid round into a hex bar, then I turn the hex section back to round at the diameter needed for the spindle bore (except for where I want the spanner to fit), then I screw-cut the end to whatever thread I need. Of course, to get a perfect thread form, I use nothing except those special carbide threading tips.....
The really crude approach, which I would *never* do, is weld a coupling nut onto a length of allthread.
PDW
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18th July 2015 03:29 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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18th July 2015, 04:24 PM #17SENIOR MEMBER
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18th July 2015, 05:40 PM #18SENIOR MEMBER
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18th July 2015, 05:49 PM #19SENIOR MEMBER
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18th July 2015, 06:19 PM #20Senior Member
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You guys just arnt considering the environments that the drawbar is going to be subject to. For that reason, I plan on making my next drawbar from inconel, forged and then Ill hand scrape the flats on the hex, just to make sure it makes consistent contact with my supatool spanner. If its worth over doing, its worth over doing well!
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18th July 2015, 06:57 PM #21Pink 10EE owner
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Just make sure whatever you use it is from military grade aerospace billet..
But seriously, the only special treatment my drawbars get after making them is I put the skinny portion in the lathe and make sure the hex portion is square to the shank...
Here are some I have made, from the elaborate to the downright quick and nasty... All work well....
20150718_175133.jpgLight red, the colour of choice for the discerning man.
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18th July 2015, 10:19 PM #22SENIOR MEMBER
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Personally. I like to take a bit of 4140, Some EN36A, A bit of 8620 and some P20 just encase I want to nitride it. Then I fusion weld them together, forge them, turning them over until I have 300 layers of Damascus Rod. Then I make a Drawbar.
I'm putting a footnote, in this thread. Too many jokes Bro's. We are at risk of shoehorning the O.P bloke. And offending B.T
You can use any thing from Bunnies 4.8 grade all thread, threw to the example of B.T in 4140.
You will never exceed yield strength, as pointed out buy PeteF. I can't recall any of you blokes snapping a drawbar??
Harder / tougher is nice. I particularly like a drawbar that doesn't mushroom when you give it a tap.
3rd Hand Phil.
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18th July 2015, 10:28 PM #23Product designer retired
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Titanium
No-one has mentioned nitrated titanium?
Anyone, anyone???
Ken
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18th July 2015, 10:35 PM #24SENIOR MEMBER
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18th July 2015, 11:12 PM #25SENIOR MEMBER
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The other thing to point out in all seriousness is that if you're banging on the drawbar it means it's self-locking taper on the other end of your percussion instrument. That being the case it doesn't need, nor should it be, over tightened. The self locking nature of the taper means it is that which is doing all the holding, and all the drawbar is doing is stopping the whole lot from dropping on your toes. I think many people unnecessarily over-tighten things like MT3 tapers thinking they're doing themselves a favour, when in fact it just makes them difficult to get out, giving the bearings hell in the process.
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18th July 2015, 11:38 PM #26SENIOR MEMBER
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19th July 2015, 01:00 AM #27.
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Boat Floating
Pete,
Whilst I had some 1214 that would have done the job my material choice was based on a strong dislike of the so eager to rust quality of 1214 and because I also had some appropriately sized 4140. The original drawbar is hard(ened?) and ground. Is is also machined precisely to fit into the 30 taper spindle nose to facilitate the use of P20 collets which can be inserted in the opposite end of the spindle - https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...08#post1167408
Making my own from scratch allowed me to replicate the 22mm AF head dimension of the original. In my mind one spanner beats four.
As far as removing arbors goes, the 30 tapers I have vary. A couple of seldom used CTC chucks require a drawbar tap with a hide mallet, the often used Schaublin and the superb Rego Fix chuck come out with a thump of the hand. 3 Morse arbors come out easily enough if their installation hasn't been overzealous. A bit like screwed on lathe chucks. When I acquired my little Hercus mill someone must have used that three foot pipe Richard described on the end of a spanner to tighten the horizontal arbor drawbar. It took a puller, a pusher and heat along with some nasty language to get that out!
Bob.
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19th July 2015, 01:40 AM #28SENIOR MEMBER
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You blokes should ask as to 1045. Its a poor man's 4140. Its not that exotic. Decent Steel merchant should be able to supply it.
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19th July 2015, 04:20 AM #29Senior Member
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Option 1 for me works ok last 30 yrs The nasty taper of Morse tooling beds them in tight and can be a right frustrating event to crack the taper. A few years ago I made a double forked tool similar to a ball joint separator for car suspension some a hammer and some screwed. This simple device is 2 opposed similar wedges that close up under the tooling held in taper as they intersect the width increases a tap or two on the draw bar and another nip of the wedges and out they pop. No shock loads for bearings and makes the job easier got a shaper mill can be made up in couple hours out of your scrap bin .No rocket Science involved.
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19th July 2015, 10:11 AM #30
Here is a pic of a couple of drawbars I use. One is M16 the other 5/8". Very simple - just a nut welded on the end with a loose locking nut and a loose collar to centre the drawbar. Also shown is the hammer I use to (lightly) tap out the drawbar after loosening the lock nut. Note that the mushrooming of the hammer head was done by the previous owner before it came into my possession (doing what I do not know).
Cheers.
Vernon.
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