Thread: Drill Sharpening Jig

HI BaronJ,
Interesting project. I like the way you have boxed in the Angle iron for the drill bed it will stop the angle from twisting. A drill sharpener is something that I have also been thinking of for a while. I looked at a lot of different one's and a toss up between the KEF http://www.drill-bit-sharpener.com.a...al-kef6ne.html and the Sterling Drill Grinder http://sterlingdrillgrinder.com/ . I've decided to go with the Sterling style only because I like the idea of changing the point angle. It's a project for the future though as I want to build a 35 ton Hydraulic press soon. Thanks for posting your pictures of your project.

I just might sit down and watch this one I don't hang out here much
So I will just stand in the back and watch and learn

Hi Stewart,

I've had a look at the two web sites that you referred to. Apart from the machines being complete with motors and grinding wheels, neither seem to have any real advantage over a cheap "Picador" style jig used on your own grinder. See these links:

Picador-Jig.jpg

http://www.modelengineeringwebsite.c...ing_jig_1.html

http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?topic=3788.0

The concepts behind my design are to enable accurate grind angles to be set and fixed and also enable the drill bit to be rotated 180 degrees along its axis without any alterations to its settings, thus guaranteeing that both cutting edges have the same lengths and angles. A very simple adjustment will allow four facet grinds to be achieved.

I've tried to keep things simple by using a fabricated construction requiring no more than a saw, file, and drill press. Whilst access to welding facilities would be advantageous, silver soldering would work just as well for all the joints.

Having said all this I'm open to any suggestions that will improve the design or make construction more simple.

Originally Posted by BaronJ

Hi Stewart,

I've had a look at the two web sites that you referred to. Apart from the machines being complete with motors and grinding wheels, neither seem to have any real advantage over a cheap "Picador" style jig used on your own grinder. See these links:

Picador-Jig.jpg

http://www.modelengineeringwebsite.c...ing_jig_1.html

http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?topic=3788.0

The concepts behind my design are to enable accurate grind angles to be set and fixed and also enable the drill bit to be rotated 180 degrees along its axis without any alterations to its settings, thus guaranteeing that both cutting edges have the same lengths and angles. A very simple adjustment will allow four facet grinds to be achieved.

I've tried to keep things simple by using a fabricated construction requiring no more than a saw, file, and drill press. Whilst access to welding facilities would be advantageous, silver soldering would work just as well for all the joints.

Having said all this I'm open to any suggestions that will improve the design or make construction more simple.

I have almost had my fill of this subject! Just joking. You may remember pointing out this information quite some time ago. I could not see pictures on one forum so I believe you pointed to another one which had the pictures available to me. I was using this info later on in another thread here when I found that all of Graham Meek's posts had suddenly disappeared. It was a funny thread without those in it I can tell you. I had copied all the pictures, but all I had were laser printouts. I might grab them now while I can. It is always better to get as close to original graphics as possible.

I am still working on changing my ""Picador" style jig" as per Grahams suggestions. I have mounted an aluminium wedge to compensate for the angle which in the case of my jig is out by 2 deg in the opposite direction to all the rest.

Issues with my mill (as Doubleboost says "Trouble at Mill") have got in the way.

Dean

Edit. There seems to be something funny about the first link posted. I keep seeing words like

Fig 3 The Picador jig is clearly marked, Photo

courtesy of Baron.

Not quite what it was as I remember it. Initially I just looked at the first picture. I see thers are some more improvements.

Edit 2. I had trouble registering with MEM. I am still waiting on the confirmation email actually. I just tried logging on, and guess what? Now I can see the pictures there as well.

Hi Dean,
If you or anybody else want copies of the original pictures just ask.

Hi Guys,

I've done a little more on the drill sharpening jig.

Having played about with various methods of securely clamping the drill whilst sharpening it and considering the range of sizes that I want to be able to handle along with the differing requirements that each method demanded I believe that I've come up with the most effective method.

Drill-Jig-11.jpg

Before I get on to that, I realised that I had not posted the picture of the brass blocks that I used to set the sides and to align the length of V channel whilst stitch welding the parts together.


One of the requirements was to securely hold any drill from about 2.5 mm to 15 mm accurately in the bottom of the V channel without it being pushed to one side. This was an issue that I found with the Picador drill jig. The clamp didn't always hold the drill into the bottom of the V. The flex in the clamp allowed the drill to be rolled up one side of the V making it very difficult to repeat the setting.

Drill-Jig-12.jpg

Since I had a short length of a rubber platen roller from an old inkjet printer I decided to use a 30 mm length as the clamp to hold the drill in place. The roller rubber being quite flexible meant that any size drill that would fit in the jig would be securely pressed into the bottom of the V without any tendency to roll either way.

Drill-Jig-13.jpg Drill-Jig-14.jpg

Because I had already decided to use a single screw to apply pressure to the clamp I realised that I needed to make a plate to distribute that pressure evenly along the length of rubber. I cut a 30 mm long length of 13 mm wide by 1 mm thick aluminium strip and drilled three holes in it 2 mm in diameter. I then put a fold along its length to both locate the strip and to give it strength.

Drill-Jig-15a.jpg

The holes were put in to locate the aluminium strip by using pins made from some copper wire pushed into holes drilled in the rubber roller.

Drill-Jig-16.jpg Drill-Jig-17.jpg Drill-Jig-18.jpg

The copper pins locate into the steel core about a millimeter. The small centre hole will be drilled out to 3 mm diameter and will go halfway into the steel core. The idea is so that the screw that applies pressure to the roller locates it and prevents any sideways movement.

Drill-Jig-19.jpg

The clamp screw in this picture is 2BA and is far to small a diameter and has far too much slop in the thread to stop it wandering off to one side. It does however show the way it is intended to function.

The next job is to make a stop so that the position of the drill being sharpened can be controlled. I'll post more as I progress.

Originally Posted by BaronJ

Hi Stewart,

I've had a look at the two web sites that you referred to. Apart from the machines being complete with motors and grinding wheels, neither seem to have any real advantage over a cheap "Picador" style jig used on your own grinder. See these links:

Picador-Jig.jpg

http://www.modelengineeringwebsite.c...ing_jig_1.html

http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?topic=3788.0

The concepts behind my design are to enable accurate grind angles to be set and fixed and also enable the drill bit to be rotated 180 degrees along its axis without any alterations to its settings, thus guaranteeing that both cutting edges have the same lengths and angles. A very simple adjustment will allow four facet grinds to be achieved.

I've tried to keep things simple by using a fabricated construction requiring no more than a saw, file, and drill press. Whilst access to welding facilities would be advantageous, silver soldering would work just as well for all the joints.

Having said all this I'm open to any suggestions that will improve the design or make construction more simple.

Hi BaronJ
The reason I've opted to go with the Drill grinders that I've looked at is, because of the capacity. I need to be able to sharpen up to 32mm (1-1/4") diameter drill bits both in reduced shank and Morse taper. The Tool & Cutter Grinder that I have which is a Herless BM-450A actually has a Picador style Drill sharpening attachment in its Manual. I haven't got around to trying a Picador style attachment as yet, but I do hope too soon. Thanks for for Links too. I see Graham has actually increased the Capacity of his sharpener set up so that it can do 25mm.
I'm certainly interested in your Project and will be following it with interest.

Hi Stewart,

Thanks for for Links too. I see Graham has actually increased the Capacity of his sharpener set up so that it can do 25mm.

I've not got a drill that big but you should be able to fit a 35 mm (1 3/8") diameter drill into my jig but I suspect that it will need to be lengthened somewhat.

Thankyou for your interest and kind words .

Hi Guys,

I've gotten a little further on with making the adjustment mechanism for the drill jig.

Drill-Jig-21.jpg

In this picture I'm showing the drill clamping mechanism clamping the end of the length adjusting screw. I used the clamp to secure the piece of 8 mm threaded rod whilst located and drilled the plastic block used as the nut at the other end. The plastic is an off cut of Nylon 66 from a larger sheet. Its 3/4" inch thick and was squared up by milling the sides.

Drill-Jig-22.jpg Drill-Jig-23.jpg Drill-Jig-24.jpg

Once I had it square I then used a file to remove one corner where it sits in the angle iron. The root of the angle iron has a curved area and I needed the plastic block to sit firmly against both sides. You can see a gap on both sides of the block where I made a nominal 1 mm allowance. I then machined off the top using a small "V" block placed in the bottom of the mill vice and strips of wood to protect the sides. Using a larger "V" block stood on end in the mill vice I carefully drilled a 7 mm hole through and then threaded the hole M8 X 1.25.

I then marked out and drilled 2.5 mm holes in each side of the jig for the screws to fasten the plastic block. After making sure that the block still sat down against the angle iron I clamped it with a G clamp and clamped the threaded rod at the other end using the rubber clamp. Using the holes I had drilled I then drilled the plastic block 2.5 mm. These holes were threaded M3 x 0.5 mm.

I opened out the holes in each side of the jig to 3.2 mm and countersunk them so that the screw heads would be below the surface of the sides. I used 10 mm long M3 slotted head countersunk screws to secure the plastic block into the jig.

Drill-Jig-25.jpg

This picture shows the rubber clamp after peening over the copper rivet heads and drilling the 4 mm hole for the guide pin. Whilst I am happy that this arrangement works, I'm not pleased with its stability. The 2 BA screw is nowhere near stable enough to stop the clamp wandering whilst tightening it down.

Drill-Jig-26.jpg Drill-Jig-27.jpg

These are the components used along with the knob that I put on the end of the threaded rod. I used the remaining bit of Nylon 66 threaded it and screwed it onto the end. I then drilled it 2.5 mm and knocked a 2.5 mm steel pin through. Stuck it in the lathe and turned it down to produce a knob. It really needs to be knurled now to finish it off.

Still more to do. Thanks all for watching.

Hi BaronJ,
loving this thread and thanks for posting.
Considering building one in the future thanks to your thread.

Phil

Hi Guys,

Well after a busy morning putting a new mains outlet socket in the garage, I've found some time to do some more work on the Drill Grinding Jig. As you will recall I haven't been too happy about the amount of slop in the screw that I used to tighten the drill clamp. So I've done something about it.

Drill-Jig-31.jpg Drill-Jig-32.jpg

Unfortunately I didn't have any of the 5/8" or 3/4" inch thick Nylon 66 left but I did find a piece of 1/2" inch thick sheet. So I cut a small rectangular piece and milled it down to fit on top of the jig. I marked it out for four holes 2.5 mm diameter 5 mm in from each edge. I also decided to move the clamp screw hole back so that it was 10 mm from the back edge but still central. Using this plastic block as a template I spotted through and drilled through the top plate with four 2.5 mm holes. Afterwards I also opened these holes in the plastic block out to 3.2 mm to clear M3 screws.

Drill-Jig-33.jpg Drill-Jig-34.jpg

Now I had my four corner holes drilled in the jig, I threaded them to suit M3 fastening screws.

Drill-Jig-35.jpg

I really should have opened the large hole in the jig top plate out using a slot drill in the mill. But being a little lazy I used an 8.5 mm drill in the drill press. As you can see I ended up with a pear shaped hole that ran off into the existing hole. I actually had to file the back edge of the hole to make sure that it cleared the new M8 clamp screw. The four screws that you can see to the right are 5/8" inch long M3 Philips head screws salvaged from a computer power supply fan fastening. These are the ones I have used to secure the plastic block to the top of the jig.

Drill-Jig-36.jpg Drill-Jig-37.jpg

These pictures show the plastic block now fastened to the top of the jig. They say "Hindsight is a wonderful thing" If I was doing this again I would have not welded the top plate and made the sides 12.5 mm longer. Then I could have just used the plastic block between the sides and secured it as I did the adjusting screw nut. As it happened the welding hardened the metal and made it tough to drill and thread.

Drill-Jig-38a.jpg Drill-Jig-38b.jpg Drill-Jig-39.jpg

The clamp, its new screw and a picture of how it now looks. The spigot is 4 mm diameter, not three as I mentioned earlier. I will make a knob to fit on top using another bit of scrap Nylon 66.

Thanks for following along, its nice to know

Hi Guys,

Not done much, I've been busy painting. Anyhow I made a knob for the clamp screw and just need to cut off the overhanging bits at the back of the jig. Next job is to find some suitable material to make the rest and guide.

Drill-Jig-41.jpg Drill-Jig-42.jpg

This shows the new knob and the clamp securing a 2.5 mm drill. The two brass bits at the bottom are the dowels that will be used to locate the whole drill jig onto the work rest. They will fit into the holes on each side as shown in the right hand photograph.

I'll post some more as I make the other bits for this project.

Hi All,

Just a very quick post to say that I've redrawn the Drill Grinding Jig drawing. It now shows the modifications that I did with regard to the Nylon 66 block used for the drill clamping nut.

Drill_jig.pdf
Drill_jig2.jpg
Thanks:

Originally Posted by steran50

Hi BaronJ
The reason I've opted to go with the Drill grinders that I've looked at is, because of the capacity. I need to be able to sharpen up to 32mm (1-1/4") diameter drill bits both in reduced shank and Morse taper. The Tool & Cutter Grinder that I have which is a Herless BM-450A actually has a Picador style Drill sharpening attachment in its Manual. I haven't got around to trying a Picador style attachment as yet, but I do hope too soon. Thanks for for Links too. I see Graham has actually increased the Capacity of his sharpener set up so that it can do 25mm.
I'm certainly interested in your Project and will be following it with interest.

I am in the same boat, i want a drill sharpener but need it to go up to larger sizes. I find sharpening drills by hand is fine in smaller sizes but once you get over 1/2" or so i find it hard to get even results.

I'm liking what i see here Baron.

Ew