Thread: Electric Motor

Hi . My experience with all 3 motor disassemblies are that some are just pressed in and them the former is punched on the edge in 4 places. Some glued and pressed and I recall one being tac welded but that was not a ci body.

Have a close look at each end
Good luck

Simon

If you want to get the copper out I'm not sure removing the stator will help you.

Put it in a fire and melt it out, if you dont mind the smoke, though as I've never done this I dont know how much smoke there is.

Put it in an oven and burn the varnish, then as below(I believe this is what rewinders do......of course you need an oven that you dont mind if it gets a little stinky. Havent done this either at home)

Run a piece of steel along the slot to help break the varnish, pull the packer out and start ripping the windings out a few at a time with vice grips. Should keep you entertained for a couple of hours. (this I have done lol)

Maybe there is a better way.


Stuart

Reverse the assembly method. They are put together as lots of coils. If you remove the packing and loosen or cook the varnish, you should be able to remove these coils in reverse order. Look at the ends of the coils. This will show what each coil consists of.

The motor from my Waldon has tack welds holding the stator in.

Dean

Thanks for the replies. It was pressed in and the coils are out (in pieces )
You were about right Stu.

The local scrappy simply uses a hammer and chisel with a bar to pull the winding out from the other end.

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Put it in a fire and melt it out, if you dont mind the smoke, though as I've never done this I dont know how much smoke there is.

This one has been niggling at me for the last couple of days. I checked it this morning and the melting point for copper is around 1085 degrees. Aluminium is around 650 or so. The conclusion is that if the housing is Al then technically yes, you will separate the copper from the housing but not perhaps in a way that you would like. Cast iron is around 1150 to 1200 so while you could melt the copper out you would probably distort the housing anyway.

I would suggest not trying this at home...

Michael

I thought the same thing when that was posted Michael, copper does have a rather high melting point.

Lex.

Originally Posted by Stustoys

If you want to get the copper out I'm not sure removing the stator will help you.

Put it in a fire and melt it out, if you dont mind the smoke, though as I've never done this I dont know how much smoke there is.

Put it in an oven and burn the varnish, then as below(I believe this is what rewinders do......of course you need an oven that you dont mind if it gets a little stinky. Havent done this either at home)

Run a piece of steel along the slot to help break the varnish, pull the packer out and start ripping the windings out a few at a time with vice grips. Should keep you entertained for a couple of hours. (this I have done lol)

Maybe there is a better way.


Stuart

For scrap?

Originally Posted by Stustoys

If you want to get the copper out I'm not sure removing the stator will help you.

Put it in a fire and melt it out, if you dont mind the smoke, though as I've never done this I dont know how much smoke there is.

Put it in an oven and burn the varnish, then as below(I believe this is what rewinders do......of course you need an oven that you dont mind if it gets a little stinky. Havent done this either at home)

Run a piece of steel along the slot to help break the varnish, pull the packer out and start ripping the windings out a few at a time with vice grips. Should keep you entertained for a couple of hours. (this I have done lol)

Maybe there is a better way.


Stuart

For scrap?

Originally Posted by Michael G

This one has been niggling at me for the last couple of days. I checked it this morning and the melting point...........

Hi Michael,

I hadn't thought about Aluminium (though I dont think it is Aluminium in this case)
I had assumed the motor was heading to a different bin at the scrappy, not the rewinders. We all know where assuming gets you. It certainly wont give the OP any idea how it works lol and a little over the top for one motor.

Distortion aside, putting it in a fire will likely wreck the "insulation"(not sure its technically insulation, but anyway) between the laminations. So its only an option for scrap separation.

Hi Aaron,
I assumed so

Stuart

Hi Guys,

Scrappies and re-winders use the same technique to remove the old motor windings. They cut them flush with the laminations with a sharp chisel, then pull the windings out using a crowbar. Even with the aluminium windings its the same technique. Armatures, transformers whatever.

from my experience the shinier the copper the more they pay for it.
so copper thats been in the fire or is tarnished attracts a lower price.
Why do you think that scrap yards pay less for
silver platted copper gets less than plane copper?
aaron

Originally Posted by azzrock

from my experience the shinier the copper the more they pay for it.
so copper thats been in the fire or is tarnished attracts a lower price.
Why do you think that scrap yards pay less for
silver platted copper gets less than plane copper?
aaron

I'm not aware that they do pay less. There is a market price per ton and that is what they base the price they are prepared to pay you on !

What scrappies charge is controlled by a number of factors.

I rang about car battery prices prior to going to Adelaide. I was taking the trailer anyway. When I dropped off the batteries, I was paid only a fraction of the price quoted. Anyway....snip....

The guy's excuse was "You have to tell us if you were quoted a price". I got the full price. My thoughts? If you don't know their rules, you get gouged. Its a mugs game, not!

I was aware that stripped copper is worth more than insulated copper, which is only fair. I was not aware of any other distinctions, but then that does not mean much at all. There is a shortage of scrappies in my area.

Dean