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Thread: It finally stopped bleeding...
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17th October 2013, 09:48 PM #46
I got one of those in my thumb about 20 years ago. We can be slot brothers.
Is there anything easier done than said?- Stacky. The bottom pub, Cobram.
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17th October 2013 09:48 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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17th October 2013, 11:02 PM #47
Just to clarify and confirm: this is NOT my idea, just my adaptation. I can't recall the source of the idea unfortunately, or I would give credit where due.
The chunky bit is 50x16 flat (I'm sure 50x12 would be plenty strong enough but I don't have any) and the bottom and jack rest (the bit with the arc ground and filed out to suit the jack body [cutting that to size is where I got hurt ]) are 50x10 flat. All 4 parts are welded together, nothing bent. The two ends are full thickness welds. The stepped hole for the top of the jack was bored on the lathe before welding on (just a bit 50x50x16 in the 4-jaw chuck). This bit already had a 14mm hole in it which has no function other than to hang it up now.
Here is the original and another design I collected and also can't reference.
If they are the work of someone here, feel free to pipe up to be acknowledged and thanked.
Both allow the jack to be removed.
mill%20jack.jpg toe%20jack%20001%20(Custom).JPGCheers,
Joe
9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...
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17th October 2013, 11:17 PM #48
By the way, the next little project to go with the jack is a set of machine skates like this one:
shortskate.jpg Who's idea was this?
I think if the threaded hole is off-centre (forward or back) and fitted with a greased washer between the it and the machine, they would swivel and be really handy...
I've collected enough bearings now and have some suitable channel bits and bright round bar.....Cheers,
Joe
9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...
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18th October 2013, 09:08 PM #49SENIOR MEMBER
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If anyone is interested I am happy to load up the pic of my thumb after it had a date with the saw bench. 10 weeks with it rigid with wires sticking out the end.
Cheers
Bruce
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18th October 2013, 09:17 PM #50
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18th October 2013, 09:22 PM #51
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1st January 2014, 08:05 PM #52
When Joe posted these pictures of his machine jack adaptation I decided to build 1 like it myself. I did this and used it to lift the Nuttall for moving. I have to say that It did not work as well as I would like. The jack tilted and the lifting leg twisted threatening to come out and allowing the lathe to move.
Machine Jack 1.jpgMachine Jack 2.jpg
I have now started on Mark 2 which is a plate underneath the whole unit, clamped to the base of the jack. The leg and base have been cleaned up ready for painting after I get the CY settled temporarily. There are a few bits left to make up, holes drilled and tapped etc. In a later post, Joe suggested it could also be used for lifting concrete and pavers. That will be handy as I have lifted up 1 of the slabs to be removed enough to get a block of wood under it. I am wondering if I should roll these slabs out on pipes before blocking most of the shed with the lathe. Run them out the door, just past CY and then lift them into the trailer. 0.162 m3 of concrete each roughly. How much would that weigh? May have to get SWMBO to do the lifting!
Dean
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1st January 2014, 08:27 PM #53Philomath in training
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1st January 2014, 08:44 PM #54
Thanks Michael. That makes each bit roughly 350 kg give or take a bit. I think I should move them first. I know what I want to do with them. I was going to cut them up originally and use them to part fill the new concrete lathe base but as they are going to be in 2 large pieces I will use them as footing for the cows to stand on while drinking from troughs. As anyone with stock will know the high traffic around troughs and gateways causes depressions to form.
Dean
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1st January 2014, 09:02 PM #55Philomath in training
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I know. I'd get depressed having cow walk on me all the time too.
Michael
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1st January 2014, 11:14 PM #56
Hi Dean,
The commercial units i have used have 2 feet that stick out either side of the lifting toe so the jack cannot tip forwards, and you do not add to the minimum gap you can get the toe into.
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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2nd January 2014, 12:18 AM #57
Yes I do know that Ewan. I was going to make that design at the start, then saw Joe's idea. That did not work so back to the previous design but when I thought about it and put some bits of steel together decided that minimising the gap to that extent was not really important, as it is so easy to put a pinch bar under the machine with a block for pivoting and lift it a cm or so. The nuttall had more than that height of packing under it and the CY has a cast hollow in the middle about 40mm high so heaps of room. If I ever need to use it on a machine that I cannot lift with a lever then I can just cut out the gap. I don't see that happening.
Dean
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2nd January 2014, 09:57 PM #58
Mark 2 is finished except for painting. It works a treat.
Machine Jack 3.jpgMachine Jack 4.jpgMachine Jack 5.jpgMachine Jack 6.jpg
The last picture shows it lifting the first slab of concrete. Couldn't do that with mark 1. That slab is on rollers waiting in the doorway to continue outside and onto the trailer. Small problem here. One of the small jobs Don did for me with his loader yesterday was to loosen a rock hard pile of road base and fill my trailer with some of it. Sigh. I also had to refit the shed door (half garage width) today as this was a victim of the loader. Just caught the edge. No brakes on the loader. LOL Needed doing anyway.
Dean
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