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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    broadford
    Age
    63
    Posts
    237

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    heres my two bobs worth,it is worth speaking to the galvanisers about not quenching after the gal dip is done.i specify this with my spiral stair treads and landing plates(mostly floorplate) and have had a lot more success to the point where i dont have to touch 99% of my work.If you can get a quote on laser cutting that is acceptable to you then this will help with periphperal stresses as well,my laser cutter would write a program for something like that for $30 dollars and supply plate at a competive rate as well.Hope it helps a little,cheers danny

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    ashton
    Posts
    213

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    Is Broadford anywhere near Adelaide? That sounds good.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    106

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    I have just had a stainless steel centreboard made for a boat I am building.

    It is not quite as big as the one in your sketch but it is 12mm thick. I did it in stainless for 2 reasons, both of these mentioned by others previously.

    1. Stainless is not as expensive as you might think. Sure, mild steel would be cheaper initially but then you have cost of galvanising and the farting about. Mine was $800.

    2. Heat from galvanising will bow a flat plate all over the place. Plasma cut stainless stays perfectly flat because the process puts bugger all heat into the parent metal. You can plasma cut mild steel too if you want to, but the galvanisiing will still bow it.

    Cheers, Cameron.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Katherine ,Northern Territory
    Age
    69
    Posts
    1,977

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Kev,
    That 9/32" hole is just for raising and lowering. It pivots on the 7/8" hole.
    Stuart


    ARRRRGH missed that . 7/8" sounds much better .

    Probably got it wrong here , but I'm sure Ill be put straight about the subject.
    I think they only use zinc anodes on steel and aluminium hulls ,not sure if you would need one for a wooden sail boat hull unless there is an engine or some other metal contact with salt water .
    I have one on my ally boat and outboard.

    Kev.
    "Outside of a dog a book is man's best friend ,inside a dog it's too dark to read"
    Groucho Marx

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    N.W.Tasmania
    Posts
    703

    Default

    Hereselmo1 my 2 bobs worth would be to talk to your prospective galvanisers, to get quotes, and to discuss the distortion issues. I have seen plenty of galvanised plate items that didn't display noticeable distortion, so either it didn't happen or it was subsequently fixed. Danielhobby has some good advice in this area, and in a worst case situation, you could probably straighten it using a press and some hardwood strips to protect the zinc layer. Also Steran50 suggested metal recyclers, or local scrap dealers, or as Dave has said, if you ask around the fabricators, you may strike it lucky for an offcut, if you try the stainless (or Aluminium) route. The scrap dealers around here will take your details and requirements, and call you when they get suitable material, perhaps the dealers local to you will too. The yellow pages will be your friend.
    Good Luck and keep us posted,
    Rob

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    broadford
    Age
    63
    Posts
    237

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by hereselmo1 View Post
    Is Broadford anywhere near Adelaide? That sounds good.
    no,sorry,its one and a half hours north of melbourne.my laser cutters are laser plus in melbourne.no affiliation,just happy with their work.

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